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How much heat can a MO-RA3 360 handle?

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gsrcrxsi

Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Location
Baltimore, MD
I’m looking at either the MO-RA3 360 LT or LC model to cool one of my SETI crunchers.

2x E5-2697v2 12-core
1x GTX 1080ti
With the option to add a second 1080ti in the future.

The only difference I see between the LC and the LT is copper tube count. LT having 72 and LC having 54. About a $25 cost difference.

1. Can the MO-RA3 360 handle this much heat?
2. Should I go for the LT over the LC?
 
That thing should handle 900w+, both of them. I haven't seen a review or h2h though. Id save the cash as either should do the job.
 
There's always the MO-RA3 9x140

i'd prefer not to. decent/cheap 120mm fans are much easier to come by. plus im still throwing around the idea of running 4x 180mm fans on it, as it will be much easier to wire up. but that's another conversation.

are you implying that the 9x120mm (360) isnt up to this task? i cant find a heat load capacity listed for this rad anywhere.

That thing should handle 900w+, both of them. I haven't seen a review or h2h though. Id save the cash as either should do the job.

so your vote is the 360 LC? even with a second 1080ti added?
 
Quick math is 250W + 250W for gpu, and the stock tdp on those cpus is 130w. So 260...around 760W stock. We generally say 1x120mm rad for every 100w.
 
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oh, for gawd sakes, just go 4x180 or 9x120 either way it'a way cool, I can even run mine passive with an 8350 at 5.0+, for a while.
 
Yeah I’m looking at fans now. It’s not a restrictive radiator for airflow. So slow weak fans should be fine.

I haven’t found many good 180mm fans though. They all look quite crap. Or are way overpriced.

Considering just going old school with Yate Loons they’re really cheap
 
I'd stick with the LT 120mm with some GTs on it. Should get you some good flow and sound. If on a budget, Yate loons as stated or Swiftech Helix 120s are fine as well.

Stay away from 180mm fans like the plague. They are only good for pushing some volume of air as long as the pathway is unrestrictive.
 
I run a similar rad, a Phobya Supernova, with Yate Loon highs on it. Those fans are a little noisy but it has cooled anything I throw at it. You should be fine with your cooling capacity there.
 
I am running the MO-RA3 with the 4 180mm setup running the Silverstone SST-AP182 Air Penetrators, they come with adjustable speed controllers and they flat rock!

They provide the best of both worlds either extremely quiet or when more is needed they'll crank up to impressive levels.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/silv...180mm-case-fan-w-adustable-speed-control.html

This is not your regular 180mm cooling fan and it does everything advertised and is the best money I've ever spent on a 180mm fan, many others fell short but this does not.

As far as the MO-RA handling everything you listed I'll say as long as you don't plan to seriously OC those CPUS.

I run mine on a single Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080Ti and it's load temperature is about 30c. at 23c ambient.

IMO it is one of the best radiators money can buy I've had mine in service now about 5 years.

Trust me, you get what you pay for.

Stay away from 180mm fans like the plague. They are only good for pushing some volume of air as long as the pathway is unrestrictive.

For the most part that is correct but the Silverstone SST-AP182 is a different animal. http://www.performance-pcs.com/silv...180mm-case-fan-w-adustable-speed-control.html

At 2000 RPM they produce 170cfm and 6.1 static pressure and are adjustable from 500rpm to 2000rpm.
 
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I'd stick with the LT 120mm with some GTs on it. Should get you some good flow and sound. If on a budget, Yate loons as stated or Swiftech Helix 120s are fine as well.

Stay away from 180mm fans like the plague. They are only good for pushing some volume of air as long as the pathway is unrestrictive.

I am running the MO-RA3 with the 4 180mm setup running the Silverstone SST-AP182 Air Penetrators, they come with adjustable speed controllers and they flat rock!

They provide the best of both worlds either extremely quiet or when more is needed they'll crank up to impressive levels.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/silv...180mm-case-fan-w-adustable-speed-control.html

This is not your regular 180mm cooling fan and it does everything advertised and is the best money I've ever spent on a 180mm fan, many others fell short but this does not.

As far as the MO-RA handling everything you listed I'll say as long as you don't plan to seriously OC those CPUS.

I run mine on a single Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080Ti and it's load temperature is about 30c. at 23c ambient.

IMO it is one of the best radiators money can buy I've had mine in service now about 5 years.

Trust me, you get what you pay for.



For the most part that is correct but the Silverstone SST-AP182 is a different animal. http://www.performance-pcs.com/silv...180mm-case-fan-w-adustable-speed-control.html

At 2000 RPM they produce 170cfm and 6.1 static pressure and are adjustable from 500rpm to 2000rpm.

i went with the 360 LC and 9x YL 120x38mm 1350rpm fans.

this fan choice for price mainly, and i only got 38mm fans because they didnt have the same model in 25mm in stock lol. 9x $5 fans certainly outweighs 4x $28 fans.

if the 180's were a bit cheaper, i'd have done that. $28 is ridiculous IMO, that's noctua territory, and these are NOT noctua quality. I also dont like the front "grill" or whatever, looks like it would block a lot of airflow. they should just have normal bracing like every other fan.

otherwise i've bought most of what i need for this server watercooling.

2x Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro
GTX1080ti w/ EKWB
koolance PCI pass through
koolance quick disconnects
D5 vario
Watercool Tube 150 D5 res-top
fittings/tubing (Primochill adv LRT)
MO-RA3 360 LC

rad will be mounted right on the window, blowing hot air directly outside. I'm just not sure if a single D5 will suffice, the MO-RA3 is pretty restrictive, we'll see.
 
The problem with the big fans is they have a bigger dead spot than say the smaller 120s or 140s. 120mm is the sweet spot for rad fans.

I personally would have went with the LT just to get more fluid running through that rad but again, you should be fine. I will only add that I believe for a system like yours, I would run no less than two pumps in serial so you have the extra pumping power needed for flow through a complex loop and not have to run your single pump to max constantly even though you could if you'd like but the audibles might turn you off as well as having redundancy since you'll be cooling some really nice gear if say you're away from the PC and have a peace of mind that if one pump goes down, you have another one on going but of course there system protections in place.

As far as rad flow, it's always best to get the freshest and coolest air as it will give you the best temps possible but if the temps on both sides aren't that different, well it wouldn't matter then. Just make sure you're not at the levels of condensation say during cooler seasons.
 
I'm going to attempt the single pump for now. thats part of the reason i went with the LC. less tubes should mean less restriction. i'll see what the flow rate feels like with the vario pump at 4/5.

redundancy is nice, but a dead pump wont mean a dead component. they have thermal limits and shutdowns specifically to prevent that.

accoustics aren't really a concern. the systems currently have 80x38mm 6000rpm screamers... so yeah, its loud lol. i'm not really trying to make them quieter, just more effectively remove the heat and focus it directly outside than into the room.
 
I don't think you'll have an issue on heat dissipation with those screamers. :D
 
Yeah they move a lot of air. I’m really only using 2 per system to pull air out the back. This helps keep video card temps down.

The only problem is they put the heat into the room. I’m trying to get most of the heat to a window mounted rad to dump the heat outside. Planning to run Koolance 702 for its long life. When it gets cold I’ll pull the rad from the window and probably close the window a bit to regulate the temps, even though 702 has a freeing point of -15c and it rarely even gets below that here in the winter.
 
It all matters what your room temp is. You can have a 480 Radiator setup but if your room is hot the liquid is going to get hot while the fans push warmish air against the Rad. Moral of story, keep your room temps low use the AC, leave your bedroom door open when you can. Good luck
 
the radiator will be mounted to the window blowing hot air out, thats the goal

im about to just get a 12-14" car radiator fan for this thing. lol. they are like 30-40 bucks and push like 2000cfm.

im half serious, but half of me is actually serious.
 
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