HWlabs SR2 multiport issue

[Sprucemoose]

I just received my two 360 SR2 multiport radiators for my planned build. I'm planning to use both in a Lian Li O11 Dynamic case, so I know it's going to be a tight fit (but should work). The HWlabs webpage lists this radiator to 60mm full thickness. However, I was a bit disappointed when I opened up the box today. The stop-plugs protrude further than the official dimensions, making the radiator thickness 63mm (when the plugs are used on one side). Furthermore, it is impossible to mount the radiator level without using spacers because of the protruding stop plugs on one end of the rad. I know 3mm is not much in absolute terms, but there isn't much room between the bottom radiator/fans and the GPU, and I'd like to have as much space as possible.

Do stop plugs that can fit in a G1/4 thread without protruding exist? Apart from welding these ports shut or mounting not-protruding stop-plugs, I can't see any other way than using spacers. Intuitively, it seems like bad design.

 

[bassnut]

Try a stop plug from a res ..... it might be thinner. Also there is nothing stopping you from sending/ grinding the stop plug thinner if you have the tools, even just a 1"file will do if you take your time.

 

[EarthDog]

Maybe remove it and seal it with something (silicon product)?

 

[Sprucemoose]

Maybe remove it and seal it with something (silicon product)?

That could be a very good idea! I see that there is something called glass silicone, which is supposed to be water tight and bond well to many materials. Supposedly, it is also used to glue glass panels together when building aquariums, so it should hold up in a water loop. And as long as it doesn't deteriorate over the years, reacts or sheds inside the loop, it could be a good alternative. I don't know how much pressure it will handle, though (how much pressure is inside a loop with two rads, two waterblocks and one D5 pump?). It will, of course, be important to apply silicone in such a way that it doesn't interfere with the waterflow. By using the other ports on the radiator, I might be able to control the application and keep silicon from getting into the rad.

If anybody has any experience with silicone in water loops, I'd love to hear what you think.

 

[Mr.Scott]

Barrow makes an ultra low profile plug. Pretty sure EKWB makes one also.
You won't find any flush mount plugs because G 1/4 needs an O ring.

 

[maxfly]

I would sand them down the same way you would lap a block or ihs. Tape a piece of sandpaper to the top of a flat surface and sand them to the thickness you need. I thought about doing that to my sr2 but didnt need to in the end. Fortunately the panel flexed enough to close the gap when i tightened the fans down.

 

[Zerileous]

For your top rad, you may actually have enough clearance or be able to modify the case to give enough clearance, since there are two top panels (one removable with a fan grille and one that the rad mounts to). For the bottom, you could mount your fans under the rad to give clearance. The long fan/rad screws would have to go in through the bottom, through the fans, and finally screw into the rad. It would be awkward to set up and even more awkward to remove if needed.

 

[Sprucemoose]

Thanks for all the input. @Zerileous, I don't think I'll go with the fans sandwiched between the bottom case and the rad, both for estethics and for practicality. Planned setup for this build is pull configuration in the bottom (intake), push configuration at the top (exhaust), and intakes on the side w/o rad (9x Corsair ML120 RGB in total). If I want to convert to a push configuration at the bottom rad, I'll rather have access to the fans without the need to tear down much of the loop.

@maxfly, I'm not really sure what you arr suggesting here. Sand the rim of the G1/4 openings or sand down the stop plugs themselves? The threaded channel on the rad protrudes 3mm, but it's very close to surface of the rad itself. Not much leeway for errors, so I'm unsure about going that way.

I'm thinking four alternatives here:
1) Use low profile plugs and see how they fit, I've ordered the ones from EK. They arrive tomorrow, and I'll check these first.
2) Use countersunk pipe plugs together with a sealant/water resistant glue. I can get some cheap BSP 1/4" brass plugs from China, and they are 8mm in height, which should work (should be compatible with copper in a loop). This would be an irreversible modification to the rads, though, but I doubt I'll care once they are mounted in the case.
3) Modify the case itself.
4) Use spacers.
Bonus alternative #5) Buy a different case with more room!

 

[bassnut]

For water cooling there is not much bigger without going custom. The Lian-Li PC011 XL is possibly a bit more roomy / usable room but for the issues you have I don't think changing cases will help. Try the thinner plugs or modify the plugs you have to be thinner / use an adapter. Any of those options makes more sense then trying to find a different case.

 

[MaddMutt]

Here is a link http://www.performance-pcs.com/fitt...ting-type--plug/?dir=asc&limit=90&order=price - This is what I grabbed for my EK gear - http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-plug-g1-4-acetal-black-10-pack.html

 

[Sprucemoose]

@MaddMutt, I have these coming in the mail tomorrow, those are the lowest profile I could find. And I just ordered som BSP 1/4" countersunk pipe fittings from AliExpress today too. Shipping from China is extremely slow, though.

 

[TazExtreme3]

You are looking for a 1/4 bspt countersunk plug. They are tapered like a standard pipe thread eliminating the need for the o-ring. Yes it is safe to use a taped thread fitting in a straight thread port. Use some thread sealant and do not over tighten.
<- Is a machinist.

EDIT..

And I just ordered som BSP 1/4" countersunk pipe fittings from AliExpress today too. Shipping from China is extremely slow, though.

Lol, yeah that.

 

[Sprucemoose]

@TazExtreme3: Thanks for the (slightly delayed) input ! I think I ordered BSPP. The webshop didn't specify directly, but it references a table with BSPP dimensions. Is it possible to see with the naked eye on the pictures if they're BSPT or BSPP? Anyway, BSPP should work together with sealant/glue, right?

 

[TazExtreme3]

@TazExtreme3: Thanks for the input ! I don't know if the plugs I ordered are BSPP or BSPT, though. Is it possible to see it with the naked eye on the pictures? Anyway, BSPP should work together with sealant, right?

They will be slightly tapered. The countersunk plugs are all made with a taper. Yep a little sealant and you'll be good.

 

[Sprucemoose]

They will be slightly tapered. The countersunk plugs are all made with a taper. Yep a little sealant and you'll be good.

Looks like this will be the best option. What kind of sealant do you recommend? I can get hold of different kinds of Loctite products, but I'm not sure which one is the best suited for this. If I choose one of the red products (i.e. Loctite 577), it would give the strongest seal, but there is no way I'll be able to disassemble it if needed. I've done sealing with hemp and paste while installing a sink previously, but that was a bit of a mess (and hard to judge how much hemp was needed). Any tips on this?

 

[MaddMutt]

@TazExtreme3: Thanks for the (slightly delayed) input ! I think I ordered BSPP. The webshop didn't specify directly, but it references a table with BSPP dimensions. Is it possible to see with the naked eye on the pictures if they're BSPT or BSPP? Anyway, BSPP should work together with sealant/glue, right?

^ I would use some Plumbers Tape (It's very cheap and can be found at any plumbing store) so that you can reuse the rad later. You bought the rad with multiple inlets/outlets and you MAY need to use them in another build/setup Not sure what kind of sealant/glue you are refurring to but you don't want to make something perm just yet.

 

[TazExtreme3]

Looks like this will be the best option. What kind of sealant do you recommend? I can get hold of different kinds of Loctite products, but I'm not sure which one is the best suited for this. If I choose one of the red products (i.e. Loctite 577), it would give the strongest seal, but there is no way I'll be able to disassemble it if needed. I've done sealing with hemp and paste while installing a sink previously, but that was a bit of a mess (and hard to judge how much hemp was needed). Any tips on this?

Green Loctite 573 sealant would be ideal (48 hr cure time) or Loctite 545. No thread locker compounds.

^ I would use some Plumbers Tape (It's very cheap and can be found at any plumbing store) so that you can reuse the rad later. You bought the rad with multiple inlets/outlets and you MAY need to use them in another build/setup Not sure what kind of sealant/glue you are refurring to but you don't want to make something perm just yet.

I'd recommend not doing that. You don't want pieces of teflon potentially getting into your pump.

 

[Mr.Scott]

I think you'll be surprised at how much those tapered plugs still hang out of the hole when they're tight. I'll be surprised if you get them in flush.

 

[Sprucemoose]

I received the EK low profile plugs now. It seems that there is a slot around the inside of the plug head to accommodate for the O-ring, which is good. But the height of the head is still 2mm. So I'll gain 1mm by using them compared to the HWlabs plugs. Now, I'm more inclined to try the countersunk heads I have on order. Did some research on the Loctite products and ended up with buying a small vial of Loctite 243 Threadlocker. This Loctite version is liquid, is recommended for threads 1/4"-3/4" and is water- and heat resistant. It is also "medium strength" meaning that the screw can be loosened using hand tools after hardening. Then it won't be irreversible, at least. However, if what @Mr.Scott writes turn out to be true, then it all depends which plug gives me the least amount of protrusion.

 

[MaddMutt]

Dear Sir,

Please give us the full details on if the part worked or didn't. Also post pictures of the new part and how the performance is

Thank You