i7 WC Temps

[baditude_df]

+1

My C0 is @ 4.0Ghz with 1.37v and with the current wc setup (sig) cooling cpu only, my idle temps are 38-39c and load up @ 44-48c across the board. I only have 3 Scythe Ultra Kaze's in push config. only on a fan controller on med settings.

Good lord, that's unheard of! You're 30degC lower than I am @20deg Ambients loaded with LargeFFTs. And with more voltage and HT Enabled.

I bet Nebulous has really low ambient temps. I couldn't imagine an i7 @ 4GHz with temps that low. Or he has a gem of a chip, which is also a possibility.

Gem is right.

 

[hokiealumnus]

Very nice!

Well, i re-seated my block and also shaved 3-4C off temp by getting core down from 1.31 to 1.28 for my 4Ghz OC! whoot... just lovin' this D0...

BUT! new goal... Match Nebulous in temps... i mean come on... its WINTER here in Germany, i know i can drop!

That's great, congrats!

As far as your new goal....radiator, meet windowsill.

Better have your coat, hat & gloves handy when you lose all your heat out that open window.

 

[Norcalsteve]

That's great, congrats!

As far as your new goal....radiator, meet windowsill.

Better have your coat, hat & gloves handy when you lose all your heat out that open window.

well in that case... i think i will stick with putting it in a bucket of ice!

I've been doing a lot of logging over the last couple of weeks with my Core 920 D0 and these are extracts:

4GHz @ 1.23125v, HT Enabled = Ambient 20ºC - Max Temp 56ºC

4GHz @ 1.21875v, HT Disabled = Ambient 20ºC - Max Temp 48ºC

4.2GHz @ 1.26875v, HT Disabled = Ambient 20ºC - Max Temp 52ºC

4.48GHz @ 1.3625v, HT Disabled = Ambient 20ºC - Max Temp 58ºC

Idles in low to mid 30's, typically around 13ºC above ambient on hottest core.

HT is generally disabled as I found that for the applications I use that it has no benefit at all. It allows me less volts and lower temps.

Sweet spot on mine is 4.2GHz with HT disabled, 58% overclock with 58% typical performance increase

How is your loop set up? (parts and peices) nice volts and temps too btw!

 

[georanma]

Ya, I wouldnt mind running similar tests...alas, I just moved my set up again, and have little desire to reposition near the window (there is a couch in front of it now). Florida has been freezing the last few days. Thank god the pipes didnt burts ( guess it wasnt too bad), cause I totally didnt let it drip at all. I may also see where I could go to with my vcore with HT off.

 

[Elfie]

Norcalsteve - Loop order and components:
Phobya DC12-400 12V Pump running at 5V
XSPC RX480 (with Scythe GT 1450 fans)
Black Ice Stealth GT 240
Heatkiller 3.0 Rev.3 Copper
EK Multioption RES 100 Rev2
3/8"ID, 1/2"OD and compression fittings.

I put the Black Ice Stealth in the loop with the intention of water cooling my HD4870 at some point but it's a non reference version so there's no full cover waterblock available and I haven't yet been able to find a decent GPU block at a sensible price.

 

[Norcalsteve]

so two rads? nice... you all think if i just pop another rad in my loop with the one i already have... like a single or doubble 120... it would be just as good as upgrading to the Swiftech MCR320? i am really leaning to that heatkiller block too now... 59-69 bucks for it. its only 10-20 dollars more expensive than the Swiftech XT/GTZ.

 

[Conumdrum]

Well, better fans would make your heatercore actually perform like it can. If your adverse to the noise add another.

Think about this. You get a MCR 220 for your curent issues. Your temps will be better we and you hope, hope it's not the TDX CPU block. You look at that ugly assed heater core and to perform right it needs HS high pressure fans and usually a shroud to work best.

ALWAYS look to the future in watercooling. You'll want to add a Nvidia Fermi later this year. And it's stock cooling will annoy you to no end. So your never done with watercooling, believe me. Ask Spawn, he's gone over the edge very well I might add, I envy his 1.8 Delta T temps..........

PLEASE look at just getting a MCR320 for just a few $$ more and get rid of the heater core. Run Yate Loon mediums on it and your i7 will be happy.

The XT is better than the GTZ tests prove it. HK is a good block too, but having a micrometer to measure screw spacing for final tightening is recommended. Got one? The XT mounts easier. It's all about the $$ once you look at it. Second is how easy, thats up to your brain and your paitence.

 

[Norcalsteve]

sounds good, a lotta info to digest... so as of now, i am purchasing that MCR320, and possibly a new res or a hose extention for it to relocate it and still be able to keep the opening high in the loop. and not to the micrometer, so i will get the XT too. i dont feel like getting busted for borrowing a micrometer from work!

 

[Norcalsteve]

SO!
I saved my shopping cart with the "Watercool HEATKILLER® CPU Rev3.0 1366 LT".... if i get it, i will borrow a Micrometer from work and make sure i install it correctly with the directions and recommendations of you all that have them. I should choose an XT, but with some of the reviews i read, even though the XT just inched out HK, there was a 20 dollar diffrence... for a slight performance increase. Isint that what i want though?!?!? well yeah, but i have heard a whole lotta good things about HK though too... so many opinions of all you OC, Water coolin', cool guys and gals, i just gotta dive in and see what works for my configuration as well i guess

and lastly, i am lookin at 2, two, dose... "Swiftech MCR220-QP Quiet Power 2X120mm" due to the set up of my Haf... i know its a big case, but a 3x120 is long and limits the places i can put it in or on the case... but 2 of the 2x120's gives me one extra fan in addition AND the flexibility of locating the rads in a lot of different configurations... Door, Top, Floor, Front, Back.... outer space!

So, i will see how it works for me... money is not to much an issue, so if i get a defunct HK, i will get an XT like some of you suggest. and best of all, if i decide to add more to my loop, i always have an extra rad at least!

Thoughts?

 

[Elfie]

I'll be honest and admit that I don't use a micrometer when I fit the HK. I do have one but I'd have to remove the board each time I refitted. I screw it down until the springs 'squeak', to use a technical term.

 

[georanma]

Man...I keep looking at that HK 3.0, and your talk of micrometer worries me.

 

[Elfie]

I've refitted my socket 775 HK about 10-15 times and the 1366 HK at least 6. Each time I do it the temps across the cores and at load do not vary (except when I've tested the IC Diamond TIM). With the socket 775 HK I've even used bolt down fittings rather than the supplied fittings again with no difference. Either I've got it wrong everytime or the micrometer suggestion in the instructions is bollox. I'm man enough to admit I might have got it wrong every time.

 

[georanma]

Ya, and Id be right there with you tbh.

 

[SuperDave1685]

wow this thread makes me feel a lot better about my setup. I was having similar issues due to using lower powered fans and i was concerned like you about my temps. I added 3 extra Panaflows here (the 114cfm ones) and wow, what a difference!

 

[Norcalsteve]

yeah, i didnt research the Radiator when i was looking into this... just blocks and pumps... now i am payin the price... well, not really, learning a lot, and hell, i got back up parts now if anything goes down and i gotta wait for a replacement.

as for the HK... i seen the table in the directions... for the LGA1366, the table has you set the spring pressure tightness to "200n" by tightening to 19.6 using a caliper/micrometer... so thats 19.6 what... MM, nano inches, pico star speed lengths, flux rotations?.... cause a caliper/micrometer measures in metric and standard is the only reason i ask.

 

[georanma]

as for the HK... i seen the table in the directions... for the LGA1366, the table has you set the spring pressure tightness to "200n" by tightening to 19.6 using a caliper/micrometer... so thats 19.6 what... MM, nano inches, pico star speed lengths, flux rotations?.... cause a caliper/micrometer measures in metric and standard is the only reason i ask.

Guess Im gonna find out what its all about.

 

[Spawn-Inc]

as someone here said ( i think conundrum) just wrench it until something breaks then back it off a bit

 

[Norcalsteve]

as someone here said ( i think conundrum) just wrench it until something breaks then back it off a bit

LOL! That is probably what i will do anyways, i am impatient and normally never use directions!! But i am trying to be very thorough so i dont fry my stuff. So if anyone has done as per directions that would translate then cool, if not, i am sure i can finger it out!

 

[aoch88]

Push/pull might not always help. I suggest you to just do a "push" to test things out. The reason is because there might be turbulence at times which causes things to be worse.

 

[Norcalsteve]

Yeah, i was just thinking that too... also because i am running outta fans! i am pretty ticked at the Yate Loons i got... they are 2 wire with a big 4 pin molex connector and no down size to your typical small 3 pin fan connector... can i some how still "speed control" them only with the pos and ground? or you have to have the 3rd wire? i should just buy new fans... proper type. i need to look/read better before i click and ship these expensive PC parts!