I'm Ready to WaterCool - Need Your Help

[Beginner]

i was able to get the pump running

just like you posted. i have my dmm set to DCV - 20.

one pin at .03
second pin ranges for .02 - .08, it fluctuates between these two readings as the pump is in operation.

oh and a side note, this pump is WEAK! oh well, its all i have for now.

of the two, which pin is ground?

 

[Otter]

When you find the ground, that goes to the black wire next to the yellow wire in the molex. The power lead goes to the yellow wire. Red is for 5v.

You should be measuring the voltage across the header pins -- one probe on each pin. Then switch the probes around. .02-.08V doesn't make any sense. That board might reduce the voltage, but you should still be seeing at least 5V (or -5V), and you should get about the same number when you reverse the probes. Only the sign should change.

 

[Beginner]

i have the pump running using the circuit controller board, i put a dmm lead on each pin on the pump heard.

it will read .06 through -.06, then back to .06, etc. etc. . it didn't matter which way i placed the leads???

i feel like switche the connector around in the header and see if it still works.

 

[Otter]

I'm not sure what's going on, but there's no way that pump will run with only .06V. You couldn't even run an LED with that. Check the meter's battery, make sure you've got the right scale, and make sure you're getting good contacts. Something is not right.

Try measuring the voltage across the yellow wire in a PSU molex connector and the black one next to it. When the meter is working correctly, you'll get 12V or -12V.

That pump isn't AC, is it?

 

[Beginner]

ok, i switched the connector and the pump ran with the same pressure.

so i just hook it up to a molex like you posted. what if i connected this pump to my fan controller which can volt from 0-12 volts? if i set it to 12 volts will this increase the capacity of the pump? or is it running already at 12 volts? since it fluctuates between .06 through -.06 i'm assumming its only runnig a 6 volts???

 

[Beginner]

I'm not sure what's going on, but there's no way that pump will run with only .06V. You couldn't even run an LED with that. Check the meter's battery, make sure you've got the right scale, and make sure you're getting good contacts. Something is not right.

Try measuring the voltage across the yellow wire in a PSU molex connector and the black one next to it. When the meter is working correctly, you'll get 12V or -12V.

That pump isn't AC, is it?

i connected the dmm to the molex as you suggested and the psu rail read at 11.83 volts(generic psu). i'm assuming that my dmm is reading correctly?

dmm is set to DCV - 20V. i was measuring the pump header on the back side of the circuit board controllers pcb.

 

[Otter]

I don't think you're getting a good reading on that meter unless maybe you've got it set to 2KV instead of 20V.

The pump's voltage should be on the housing somewhere. Check and make sure it's really a 12VDC pump. It might be an AC aquarium pump.

 

[Beginner]

i checked it again at DCV - 20V and i got the same reading.

i adjusted my dmm to 200v ACV and it read 13.2???

does this mean its an alternating current pump?

 

[Otter]

Yes, I believe it does. Does it say anything at all on the pump?

Hmmm. You might be able to run that off a 13VAC brick transformer (those little cubes that plug into the wall). You should definitely get some specs on that pump before you go any farther, though. And if you can get that circuit board for ten or fifteen bucks, do it. The brick will cost you at least half that, more with shipping or at Radioshack.

 

[Beginner]

Yes, I believe it does. Does it say anything at all on the pump?

Hmmm. You might be able to run that off a 13VAC brick transformer (those little cubes that plug into the wall). You should definitely get some specs on that pump before you go any farther, though. And if you can get that circuit board for ten or fifteen bucks, do it. The brick will cost you at least half that, more with shipping or at Radioshack.

ah shoot !

i'll look for one of these controllers on fleagay. earlier last year i had another buddy that upped the fans from his coolance from 80mm to 120mm fans. in fear of having problems with the controller(it powers the pumps and fans). i got him a fan controller and a pump the powers of a pci slot.

i think he threw that controller board away.

thanks for all your help otter, i'm closer to watercooling now , its going to take about another 2 weeks to get a contoller board but it will be worth it.

 

[Beginner]

otter, i've been trying to find a circuit controller board and i've had no luck, none on fleagay either.

i went on www.outpost.com and found a little 13vac brick for $7.00, i called a fry's b&m and they have them in stock.

do i just split the wires and connnect it directly to the pump? if so, i'll pick one up.

 

[Beginner]

ok, outpost has this one, its 9.99 - http://shop3.outpost.com/product/4011642?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

radio shack has this one for 17.99 - http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049687&cp

which ever one is better, the one i orginally saw for 7.00 at outpost.com only handled up to 8volts.

 

[Flip-Mode]

Why aren't you connecting the pump directly to the PSU?

 

[Beginner]

Why aren't you connecting the pump directly to the PSU?

the pump ended up being a 13vac pump, i guess thats why the koolance controller board has that huge heatsink and capacitors???

 

[VballCoach]

y not get a mcp350, mcp655 or other 12v pump? will this be your last w/c system? you can then be ready for an upgrade later on down the line

 

[Flip-Mode]

Ummm......It doesn't make sense....
Can you just plug it in a fan controller and check it? Don't worry, you will not fry it and because its DC you can't hook it up the wrong way because it will not work or it will pump in reverse.

 

[Beginner]

y not get a mcp350, mcp655 or other 12v pump? will this be your last w/c system? you can then be ready for an upgrade later on down the line

in a couple of months i'll be watercooling(maybe even pelting) either an a64 or dothan machine. i'm trying my hardest not to invest any $$ into this nf7 so i have some $$ for an upgrade.

 

[Trios]

Ummm......It doesn't make sense....
Can you just plug it in a fan controller and check it? Don't worry, you will not fry it and because its DC you can't hook it up the wrong way because it will not work or it will pump in reverse.

Hey man...the pump is AC, not DC, something we've figured out earlier in the thread.

I don't mean to be an *** but doing this could ruin his pump....

 

[Flip-Mode]

Hey man...the pump is AC, not DC, something we've figured out earlier in the thread.

I don't mean to be an *** but doing this could ruin his pump....

It will not ruin it and in fact it will not do anything, it will just sit there and..... not do anything....
Anyhow, its 13VAC? Weird, AC usually doesn't go that low...... actually I don't know any application that uses 13VAC.... oh well, I'll keep watching the thread.

 

[Otter]

the pump ended up being a 13vac pump, i guess thats why the koolance controller board has that huge heatsink and capacitors???

Yeah, that board is actually an inverting power supply.

Given what we know so far, I don't believe there would be any harm in trying Flipmode's test as long as you disconnect the pump after a few seconds if it doesn't start. Based on your voltmeter readings, I really doubt it's going to work. But a 13VAC pump is just plain bizzare, so it might be worth a shot.

The AC brick is going to give you a sine wave. The question is, was this pump designed to work off a sine wave, or does the controller give it a square wave? If it's a square wave, your meter might not be giving you a true reading on the voltage. There's a number of ways to compute AC voltage, and I wouldn't assume a cheapo meter is going to read anything but a 60Hz sine wave correctly. Even if it does read correctly, you might need a slightly higher sine wave voltage to get the rated head out of that pump. And for all you know, the pump is designed to work on 20 or 100Hz instead of the 60Hz the brick will give you. That's why I recommend you contact Koolance or whoever makes that pump and get some specs before you order a transformer. You need to know three things: the voltage, waveform, and frequency the pump was designed for. Koolance might even give you a reasonable deal on the controller board.