Is a gap normal between rigid fittings and CPU waterblock?

[SkyLakeBlue]

I shifted from flex tubing (Xspc compression fittings) to rigid tubing (Monsoon EV2 fittings)

I changed my Intel CPU waterblock: XSPC Raystorm Pro(old) to Raystorm Neo (new)

I noticed the gap of the rigid fittings from the cpu waterblock and I tried to screw it down with the tool as much as my fingers start to hurt but there's still a gap.

I uploaded another here shows the Monsoon EV2 rigid fittings (left) Xspc flex tubing compression fittings (right) on my old cpu waterblock which is copper.



The flex xspc fittings screw down all the way while the rigid ev2 does not.

Is this normal to have a gap or not?
Should I continue to force it down? I'm afraid of cracking the cpu waterblock though..

 

[Lochekey]

I have never worked with this specific fittings but I do not think it is sealed correctly based off of the picture. There should be an o-ring between the bottom of the fitting and the top of the block to seal it since the threads are non sealing. I do not see this o-ring in your picture. Is it present and just not visible or is it missing?

One thing you can do is measure the length of the threads on the fitting and the thread depth on the block and see if it will fit or not. You could also compare thread lengths between the two fittings. Normally if you are having to use tools to tighten a fitting something is not quite right.


Oh and can you post another picture from the side view with the decorative cap removed.

 

[SkyLakeBlue]

I have never worked with this specific fittings but I do not think it is sealed correctly based off of the picture. There should be an o-ring between the bottom of the fitting and the top of the block to seal it since the threads are non sealing. I do not see this o-ring in your picture. Is it present and just not visible or is it missing?

One thing you can do is measure the length of the threads on the fitting and the thread depth on the block and see if it will fit or not. You could also compare thread lengths between the two fittings. Normally if you are having to use tools to tighten a fitting something is not quite right.


Oh and can you post another picture from the side view with the decorative cap removed.

Hi, thank you so much for the response. Here are more close up:

 

[SkyLakeBlue]

I have never worked with this specific fittings but I do not think it is sealed correctly based off of the picture. There should be an o-ring between the bottom of the fitting and the top of the block to seal it since the threads are non sealing. I do not see this o-ring in your picture. Is it present and just not visible or is it missing?

One thing you can do is measure the length of the threads on the fitting and the thread depth on the block and see if it will fit or not. You could also compare thread lengths between the two fittings. Normally if you are having to use tools to tighten a fitting something is not quite right.


Oh and can you post another picture from the side view with the decorative cap removed.

Should I do double o-rings on the thread as a solution? It seems like it will break when force it with wrench tool it came with.

 

[Richo999]

As long the o-rings are properly tightened between the fitting and the block it should work, however I would either replace the fitting myself with something that fits or get a thicker o-ring with the same diameter to be on the safe side or you can also saw of the excess thread, I advice against this since I don't know which material they used. From experience (I work in heavy industry), we never use a double gasket or o-ring and just get a thicker gasket or modify the cobstruction, then again these aren't systems build for high pressure or dangerous chemicals.

 

[WhitehawkEQ]

Put Teflon tape on the threads to seal it. Plumbers use that a lot.

 

[Lochekey]

Teflon tape may or may not work in this scenario as the thread is straight wall and not tapered so it is not designed to be self-sealing. The tape could also cause enough excess pressure when cranking down the fitting to crack the block.

Aa for the o-ring I would not use a double o-ring, this is never a good idea. You may be able to get away with a thicker o-ring but I think that gap is to large to even close with a larger o-ring.

I would start with checking the thread length of the fittings against the block to see if this is the cause of the interference. If the thread length on the fittings is greater than the block you may be better off going with other fittings instead of trying to modify anything. The other thing you could try is taking the top of the block off and then putting the fittings on to see how deep the fittings are sitting into the block cover.

 

[maxfly]

I would start with checking the thread length of the fittings against the block to see if this is the cause of the interference. If the thread length on the fittings is greater than the block you may be better off going with other fittings instead of trying to modify anything. The other thing you could try is taking the top of the block off and then putting the fittings on to see how deep the fittings are sitting into the block cover.

Lochekey hit it on the head. the threads are almost certainly to long for that block. i would return those fittings and get some that fit your block correctly. check with your block manufacturer for the right length threads.

 

[||Console||]

I would check in your block to see if you have damaged any of the copper channels .

 

[Nebulous]

I would check in your block to see if you have damaged any of the copper channels .

I concur. Remove the acrylic top and check the copper channels. I'm thinking those fittings are not the right size for that particular block as well.