Mix pumps with other pump top brands

[GusMartnz]

Hi! Well, I've been lurking for a while but now I decided to create an account and become active so, Hi!

I assembled my first custom loop around two months ago based on an EK Liquid360, and it did not go well, found out that I had a bad oring on the pump which apparently was causing it to have a really weak flow, so I disassembled and found a crack in a fitting thread on the pump top, also, in the month it took the leak to apparently kill the pump, I was using mayhems pastel orange which created gunk in my block, so I had to deal with that also.

To not make this story longer, since I'm not in the us, it's really difficult to ask for an RMA, so I'm looking to buy a new pump. I have the reservoir top and cylinder from this kit (I upgraded to a 140mm one and a multiport top which goes perfectly with my planned loop), so my question is this.

Do all ddc pumps have the same specs in spacing and screws and mounting? Can I buy an Alphacool Alphacool Laing DDC310, and a EK XRES 100 for a DDC pump to replace the one with the cracked threading (which causes leaks too) so I can use my current reservoir cylinder and reservoir top?

+

So, here are some pics of this sad story and thank you in advance!

So.. This was the first day.


After this, it all went down hill

 

[||Console||]

IDK the answer to your question but I will be pointing ppl to those pics when they say they are going to use colored fluids .

 

[GusMartnz]

Please do, I'm totally sticking to clear, it was literally ONE MONTH... I knew I would change colors, but never imagined it would happen so damn fast, I took a picture to show the difference of a month.

 

[||Console||]

I think the Matching pumps from other distributors should work but dont know enough to say for sure .

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Any DDC 3.xx should work on all the DDC tops but I would just check their compatibility listings to be on the safe side. The only DDC pump I would do more research on is the MCP50X from Swiftech as it's design might be slightly different (bigger?) but not 100% sure.

It's really unfortunate on what happened here but thankful to you for sharing your story so others can learn from this. We preach the same ol tunes around here but some are stubborn and challenging but it is their funds as they can do as they may. I keep telling folks, if you want color, use lights and colored tubing.

In your case once you get back on your own feet and you've completely cleaned the gunk and stains, assuming you've done extensive flushes of the rad with distilled since that will be the hardest one to clean, I would recommend clear premix fluids. I personally use Aquacomputer's clear DP Ultra with no issue. A simple annual drain and refill unless your loop has deteriorated and needs a complete tear down cleanse.

 

[GusMartnz]

I guess I'll give it a shot, since I don't think a d5 would benefit me more, and I'd like to stick to the ddc pump type.

And yeah, I really had a rough start in watercooling.
A friend says that it must be my radiator the one who caused the gunk and corrosion, I'm in denial since I've really heard mostly good things from EK radiators. I left my block in vinegar to remove the gunk and it mostly worked, I don't know if the residues are still corrosion or just the normal stains that happen to copper. you have any idea? Would it be necessary to replace the plate?

 

[Jeff G]

The gunk looks like a build up of plasticizer, and the discoloring is probably do to a contamination (most likely a radiator not fully cleaned).

Im no proponent for colored fluids though, this is blue Thermaltake C1000 coolant. All hard tubes, so no plasticizer, and using a Thermaltakes radiator.
Kinda hard to see, but the blue has clogged the entire block.

 

[Jeff G]

I guess I'll give it a shot, since I don't think a d5 would benefit me more, and I'd like to stick to the ddc pump type.

And yeah, I really had a rough start in watercooling.
A friend says that it must be my radiator the one who caused the gunk and corrosion, I'm in denial since I've really heard mostly good things from EK radiators. I left my block in vinegar to remove the gunk and it mostly worked, I don't know if the residues are still corrosion or just the normal stains that happen to copper. you have any idea? Would it be necessary to replace the plate

Do you rinse with water? If you didnt dry it immediately, that may be some oxidation. Might have to try the vinegar again, and dont be afraid to lightly brush with a clean, soft toothbrush.

 

[GusMartnz]

Do you rinse with water? If you didnt dry it immediately, that may be some oxidation. Might have to try the vinegar again, and dont be afraid to lightly brush with a clean, soft toothbrush.

I rinsed it after I removed it from the vinegar, but did not brushed it or anything! I'll definetly try that!
If it is oxidation, then I'd be good with this plate right? in the EKwb page they say it's normal for copper blocks to get stained.

The gunk looks like a build up of plasticizer, and the discoloring is probably do to a contamination (most likely a radiator not fully cleaned).

Im no proponent for colored fluids though, this is blue Thermaltake C1000 coolant. All hard tubes, so no plasticizer, and using a Thermaltakes radiator.
Kinda hard to see, but the blue has clogged the entire block.
View attachment 193975

Oh, that's so weird, I'm using mayhems tubing and ran the blitz pt2 twice, I've seen some pretty nasty stuff with thermaltake fluids, especially that blue C1000.

 

[Jeff G]

I rinsed it after I removed it from the vinegar, but did not brushed it or anything! I'll definetly try that!
If it is oxidation, then I'd be good with this plate right? in the EKwb page they say it's normal for copper blocks to get stained.

If water gets on it, dry it immediately. Copper oxidizes very quickly.

Oh, that's so weird, I'm using mayhems tubing and ran the blitz pt2 twice, I've seen some pretty nasty stuff with thermaltake fluids, especially that blue C1000.

It's some pretty nasty stuff, I picked the block up as part of a bulk purchase after someone ran the fluid through it. I have yet to open and clean it, but when I do I'll get some pictures. I run Mayhems personally, and have had no issues with separating or clogging. Still needs to be drained and maintained, but they usually hold up for a year without problem for me. I've never run the orange though.

 

[||Console||]

I guess I'll give it a shot, since I don't think a d5 would benefit me more, and I'd like to stick to the ddc pump type.

And yeah, I really had a rough start in watercooling.
A friend says that it must be my radiator the one who caused the gunk and corrosion, I'm in denial since I've really heard mostly good things from EK radiators. I left my block in vinegar to remove the gunk and it mostly worked, I don't know if the residues are still corrosion or just the normal stains that happen to copper. you have any idea? Would it be necessary to replace the plate?

View attachment 193973View attachment 193974

Even if you cant get it off , Its still going to cool . Oxidation doesnt really matter that much .

 

[GTXJackBauer]

I was worried and not sure how long vinegar was suppose to stay on so I went with the next best thing, ketchup. It worked best for me and cleaned my block right up, after a few attempts.

 

[RJ88]

I was worried and not sure how long vinegar was suppose to stay on so I went with the next best thing, ketchup. It worked best for me and cleaned my block right up, after a few attempts.

It's something more still like double triple + 300L/hr++ still we actually have some movement and circulation through a system with that. But it's still a localized cooling and small area trying to cool and rather hard for a small amount to pick up that kind of heat and absorbed, then you want to rely on aluminum which is a ****ty conductor dissipation of heat it really is...why it's get goood...it's stilll old school. gonna do it right...why you see nicer blocks/rads are alll copper/brass, now they want to do all this Acrylic tops and stuff....

 

[GTXJackBauer]

It's something more still like double triple + 300L/hr++ still we actually have some movement and circulation through a system with that. But it's still a localized cooling and small area trying to cool and rather hard for a small amount to pick up that kind of heat and absorbed, then you want to rely on aluminum which is a ****ty conductor dissipation of heat it really is...why it's get goood...it's stilll old school. gonna do it right...why you see nicer blocks/rads are alll copper/brass, now they want to do all this Acrylic tops and stuff....

What? My apologize but I have no idea what you're talking about and not sure if that had any relevancy to my last post you quoted. lol

Reading your past posts, I hope you're not trying to "Troll" around here or maybe its just some misunderstanding on your end aka malfunctioning translator.

 

[Mr.Scott]

Any DDC 3.xx should work on all the DDC tops but I would just check their compatibility listings to be on the safe side. The only DDC pump I would do more research on is the MCP50X from Swiftech as it's design might be slightly different (bigger?) but not 100% sure.

You're correct. The 50X is different.

 

[GusMartnz]

I was worried and not sure how long vinegar was suppose to stay on so I went with the next best thing, ketchup. It worked best for me and cleaned my block right up, after a few attempts.

As of right now, the plate is sitting with vinegar on it! I'll post pictures tomorrow. Just for good measure I guess I'll leave it for a day with the ketchup. Hopefully it will clean it.

You're correct. The 50X is different.

Then I could try getting a new top then with a new alphacool pump.

Even if you cant get it off , Its still going to cool . Oxidation doesnt really matter that much .

That's such a relief to hear, that would had been at least another $50 on a second hand water block, or at least $30 on a replacement plate for this one.

---

Also, I found out that I could use the acrylic cylinder with another cap as a reservoir, and buy a stand alone pump instead of the plan I had in mind of mix and matching different brands. Should I go that route instead? or is it a pump-res combo more convenient overall? (If I go this route, MAYBE I could get the cheapest D5 instead of a DDC I guess)

 

[||Console||]

That's such a relief to hear, that would had been at least another $50 on a second hand water block, or at least $30 on a replacement plate for this one.

https://www.ekwb.com/blog/does-copper-oxidation-have-any-impact-on-cooling-performance/

 

[GTXJackBauer]

As of right now, the plate is sitting with vinegar on it! I'll post pictures tomorrow. Just for good measure I guess I'll leave it for a day with the ketchup. Hopefully it will clean it.

Oh, you're only suppose to leave these acids on for a short time, say every 15-30 mins increments. You leave it for a day or more, you might find a destroyed block.

Then I could try getting a new top then with a new alphacool pump.

Which new pump did you get?

Also, I found out that I could use the acrylic cylinder with another cap as a reservoir, and buy a stand alone pump instead of the plan I had in mind of mix and matching different brands. Should I go that route instead? or is it a pump-res combo more convenient overall? (If I go this route, MAYBE I could get the cheapest D5 instead of a DDC I guess)

I would stick with the same pump if you're going with two in serial.

 

[GusMartnz]

Oh, you're only suppose to leave these acids on for a short time, say every 15-30 mins increments. You leave it for a day or more, you might find a destroyed block.

Which new pump did you get?

I would stick with the same pump if you're going with two in serial.

When I read your reply (like 15 minutes ago) I ran to clean the ketchup off the block, I thought I had really screwed it up, but actually, geez, see for yourself, it cleaned everything! I can rest easy now! and even more with the link Console shared, Thank you all so much!



About the pump, I'm not planning to do parallel, I'm just trying to decide If I should try to get a new pump top + pump (EK Xres Top and a DDC), or just get a stand alone pump, and use the acrylic cylinder I had (with another reservoir top I'd have to buy) as a stand alone reservoir, this way I could get maybe an alphacool D5 or a DDC which is cheaper.


I could really try to get an RMA on the pump that got damaged by the leak, but buy the response I got in their email, I really doubt I would get a new pump, since I upgraded it with an EK heatsink and had to disassemble the pump, and they said that the failure could had been a result of that...

 

[GusMartnz]

The pumps I'm considering are the Alphacool VPP655 PWM (D5 based)


or the Alphacool Laing DDC310 (DDC one)


both have their own tops and I'd have to buy at least 2 more fittings (one of them is an 90 degree one and the cheaper Barrow ones don't really give me confidence to buy them, so that's around 20 bucks more), and I'd just have to buy a reservoir top, it seems that that's the easiest way to get my loop running (since I scored a sweet gpu block on ebay just 3 days ago)