Murky Res Water w/silver & PTN??

[dyckah]

Sub'd.
The more info I get on taking care of loops the better since I'm a WC newb

Rust it does look like but from where?
Somehow i don't think it's the stainless steel springs. They are called stainless fora reason...

depending on the grade of stainless, stainless steel does rust.
look at any so called 'stainless steel' exhaust on a vehicle after it being on for a few months, even if installed during the summer, with no salt on the roads, it still ends up rusty.

 

[Silver_Pharaoh]

depending on the grade of stainless, stainless steel does rust.
look at any so called 'stainless steel' exhaust on a vehicle after it being on for a few months, even if installed during the summer, with no salt on the roads, it still ends up rusty.

That's a good point. But I would like to think they use a higher grade of stainless steel in their fittings...
Perhaps not.

 

[GearingMass]

I would like to think they use a higher grade of ABC in their XYZ

What runs through my mind every time I purchase something expensive

 

[dyckah]

That's a good point. But I would like to think they use a higher grade of stainless steel in their fittings...
Perhaps not.

What runs through my mind every time I purchase something expensive

QFMFT
isnt that the truth.

 

[Silver_Pharaoh]

Sad but true

 

[GearingMass]

Minor Update:

1) Turns out the crack in my reservoir isn't a crack at all, rather a optical illusion created by an imperfect epoxy application of the pump to the res bottom, along with water's funny refraction properties. So at least I don't have to send it back.

2) Looking at the runs now that they've been pulled out, my initial thought is that the corrosion is originating from the GPU block. The fittings attached directly to that are caked with orange, whereas all the others have a very thin film on them. Will continue to update as I tear everything down more.


Couple questions:

1) I need to clean the corrosion buildup out of my reservoir, but I can't physically get in there. Is there anything I can soak in there (vinegar?) to help loosen that debris up and clean it out? I've already put some water through it and that's just not going to cut it. I know there's something that breaks down acrylic (rubbing alcohol?) but I don't remember what it is - obviously don't want to use that.

2) I suppose it's kinda the same questions with the radiators, which I can't crack open and scrub. Rad dance with vinegar or too harsh?

 

[dyckah]

rubbing alcohol, or isopropyl are the ones that break down acrylic, im pretty sure, so avoid that.
other than that, I'm really not too sure how to best go about cleaning out the res and rads, probably just warm water and vinegar, with a very through rise afterwards, although i'd wait for some more experienced people to chime in on this, never had to deal with any corrosion in any of my loops.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Can I ask what tubing and GPU blocks (Metals, Acetal, acrylic?) were used in this loop.

 

[GearingMass]

Can I ask what tubing and GPU blocks (Metals, Acetal, acrylic?) were used in this loop.

PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubing and the factory installed Hydrocopper block on the GPU (bought straight from EVGA). Here is the in-house review of the same water block for the 780 classified. I have the 780ti hydrocopper, but I believe the block is the exact same.

Q: I just realized I'm going to need some replacement thermal pads when I reapply the GPU block - is any amount or brand recommended over the other? [Edit: I suppose I need to figure out the thickness needed, most importantly. How would I go about that?]

 

[GearingMass]

This is what I was worried about. I'm guessing this means I void my warranty if I take the block off, since it was factory installed.




I'm guessing my best course of action is to look for any other obvious signs of the origin of the corrosion as I break down the rest of the loop, and if I can't find anything else that seems to be the source, then I try and exercise the EVGA warranty on the GPU?

 

[GearingMass]

GTX I just saw your thread from October. Looks like I couldn't clean out/inspect the inside of the GPU block even if I wanted too.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

The "warranty void" applies to the sticker being removed.
EVGA couldn't care less if you pull the heatsink off.

 

[GearingMass]

GTX I just saw your thread from October. Looks like I couldn't clean out/inspect the inside of the GPU block even if I wanted too.

The "warranty void" applies to the sticker being removed.
EVGA couldn't care less if you pull the heatsink off.

Good info to know. Looks now like it's irrelevant whether or not I pull it off, if I can't access the insides of the block.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

You have to pull off the front sticker plate to open the block

 

[GearingMass]

You have to pull off the front sticker plate to open the block

Oh the big one on top with the full name of the card? And that's still within warranty?

 

[ATMINSIDE]

Not sure of removing that would still keep warranty, but it is the correct spot.

 

[GearingMass]

Not sure of removing that would still keep warranty, but it is the correct spot.

Well I suppose the question is now whether or not EVGA would consider possible corrosion originating in the block as their fault or mine.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

It's worth asking them, they have grade A customer service.

 

[GearingMass]

It's worth asking them, they have grade A customer service.

That's what I've heard. I think it's worth shooting them an email to see what they think after everything is broken down.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Yes, you can take the block apart from the GPU. Reapplied TIM (MX-4) and made sure the same existing pads aligned. Luckily the GPU block didn't need to be disassembled as I previously thought. The sticker needs to be removed for that to happen and putting it back will make it warped. I had no blockage in it and works like a charm.

I would do a rad dance with the GPU and pay attention to the fluid coming out. If you see debris or discoloration. Until the whole loop gets broken down, I'm not sure if its primarily the GPU itself that is corroding. Until you break it down and find the source or believe it to be, I would wait on the EVGA support. If you see signs that it is the GPU, I than would make a call and see than if you'll be RMAing it or not. Chances are if it is the GPU block, EVGA I'm sure will assist and or possibly RMA.