My parts list for my core i7 water cooling...suggestions welcome...

[BlkCamaro55]

Ok so here is my list of parts for the water cooling kit I want for my core i7 system...As of right now Im a little confused on what I need to get as far as nozzles and barbs go...So if someone could point me in the right direction there id greatly appreciate it. Other than that, take a look at the parts and let me know what you all think.

CPU block: Swiftech Apogee™ GTZ Universal CPU Waterblock
Pump: Laing D5 Basic/Swiftech MCP655-B Inline 12V DC Pump
Pump replacement top: Bitspower D5/MCP655 Pump Mod Replacement Top
Reservoir: EK-RES250 Rev.2
Tube: 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Feser Flexible PVC Tubing - UV Blue
Radiator: Danger Den Black Ice GTX Xtreme 240 Dual
Water Additive: Swiftech HydrX Extreme Duty Coolant

Ok no was I said earlier up top, I am unassure of where i need to place nozzles and barbs...so if someone could help me out with that id appreciate it. And I look forward to your suggestions. I am ready to get this going and order the parts. I'm sick of the air cooling! haha Thanks in advance everyone!

 

[Grieg]

What case are you sticking this all in? I ask because you may want to go with the DDC pump, as the 655 is HUGE and you might have issues getting it to fit. Its a tight fit in my Silverstone TJ07.

I'm building a WC setup right now as well. All new parts. One thing I've discovered is that until you get your case, and figure out where all your parts are going to sit, don't worry too much about the fittings.

Get everything in place, figure out what fittings you *need* then buy them. I ordered a crap ton of regular fittings, need a whole bunch of 45 degree and a few 90 degree fittings, and now I'm waiting on those to arrive anyway. And, I've got to struggle with doing an RMA for the fittings I don't need.

Anyway, just my $0.02.

 

[jr1]

if you are tigt on space you might want to go with this here mcp355 http://www.petrastechshop.com/ladd1mcin12p.html as suggested by grieg and with the xspc top http://www.petrastechshop.com/xsladdctop.html for it
if your not all that tight on space the mcp655 is a good quality pump
you might want to go for the vario version of it since from my expreience it makes it easier to bleed the loop turning it down to setting 2 or 3
at least that's what i do and turn it up to setting 5 when i'm done bleeding
the nonvario version i belive is set on setting 4

edit

ohh and by the way the d5/mcp655 isn't all that huge

 

[Conumdrum]

Yea, the vario is nice, lots of us get great flow and quiet with it turned down to 3 etc. And it helps with bleeding, slower flow lets the bubbles have time to escape the res. Your aftermarket top is a good choice too.

The MCP 355 with a restop in testing at
http://www.skinneelabs.com/MartinsLiquidLab/
http://skinneelabs.com/

You don't need the 250 size res unless your doing it for looks. The 150 is fine. Tigh spaces? The Swiftech MCR V2 res is very very popular. I got the MCR 355 and the XSPC restop, so it's all in one.

On to your rad choice. That rad is good. That rad needs loud assed high pressure fans to work properly. You could be pushing the capability of the rad if your a big overclocker or have high summer temps. If you can, try to jump to a 320 sized rad.
Look at Thermochill, Feser, XSPC and the vererable and just fine MCR rads. If it was always about the best, it would be the PA Thermochills, then XSPC, Feser, MCR, and lastly the Black Ice (BIX).

The block has decent barbs. They are G1/4 threads, and have 1/2 and 3/8 hose sizes. Most rads are G1/4, except the PA, they are G3/8 fittings. The 655 has 1/2 fittings, the aftermarket top has G1/4 threads, you buy the barbs.

I suggest 1/2 ID 3/4 OD hose, Tygon 3603 clear is the standard. There is some really nice colored tubing out there now. Look at the store links I provided for more choices.

Lastly, the liquid you picked is developed by master marketers. If you just want to cool and use colored tubing, then Walgreens distilled water at $1 a gallon and 1-2 drops of Petras PHN Nuke. Much cheaper. Many tried the funny stuff, but have moved to the most effective stuff (happens to be the cheapest too). Distilled water. There are some neat silver coils you can put in the tubing that is an effective biocide.

Here is a store list and info list.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/index.php? Not a noob site, but great stickies
http://www.ocforums.com/ My fav, good peeps, know their stuff, less hardcore
http://www.skinneelabs.com/MartinsLiquidLab/
http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/inde [...] opic=20277 A GREAT Europe site
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/
http://translate.google.com/transl [...] n&ie=UTF-8 Info on rad testing
http://skinneelabs.com/
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=282232

Stores
http://www.dangerden.com/index.php [...] e&Itemid=1
http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
http://www.jab-tech.com/



Ohh BTW, see they let you outta the parking garage.

 

[shazza]

Conundrum has given you excellent advice.

The only thing I can add is to suggest you think about using 7/16"ID by 5/8"OD tubing ... it's a bit easier to route if space is limited, and it fits snugly on 1/2" barbs.

With respect to fittings ... lots of folks using compression fittings now, but these add quite a bit to your budget and aren't really necessary - just a nice to have. If you use regular barbs, you'll need 2 each for the pump, res, radiator, and CPU block. I highly recommend you use the barbs that come with the Swiftech GTZ if this is your first build.

 

[Spawn-Inc]

i second not using the swiftech hydrex stuff. your not mixing metals (copper and aluminum) so you don't need the anti corrosion protection.
distilled water and PT nuke are fine.

the barbs depend on the site you order them from. they often have an option to either upgrade from the plastic ones or add metal ones. but here is what comes with your parts.

as for barbs your GTZ block comes with metal ones so you don't need any for that.
the rad doesn't have any barbs so you will need to order 2 for it.
the mcp655 has built in 1/2" barbs, but if you get an after market top you will need another set of barbs
the res doesn't have any barbs for it either so another 2.

so you will need to get 6 barbs. you need G1/4 thread size and 1/2" barb size. since your going with 1/2" tubing get Danger Den fat boy barbs

if you go with 7/16" tubing then i would not get fat boys, you need to boil the tubing to get it over the barb. and you will have to cut the tubing to get it off.

 

[BlkCamaro55]

Hey everyone thanks for the awesome replies and thanks for the advice. I really appreciate it. And to answer everyones question about what case this is going in because you all are concerned with space for me. It is going in a Cooler Master Cosmos 1000. I know as far as the parts go, that the 150 res, (conumdrum im getting the 150 now not the 250) and the pump I know will fit as well. As for the rad, I know dual fits in the top of the case and a triple would to but with modification to the case (kinda dont wanna do that).

So I guess my question to you guys now is, knowing the size of my case now, can I stick with the 1/2" OD 3/4" tubing now? or should I still switch it. I have a ASUS Rampage II GENE motherboard which is a mATX board in that huge full tower so I think im ok on space. So HOPEFULLY no elbows or any of that nonsense is necessary ....

SO...Comments, questions, concerns? And by the way conumdrum yes they let me out of that parking garage. It took me 2 hours on the third floor, but I made it out! haha


*EDIT* Also forgot to mention that I will get the vario instead as well and still add the D5 top to it. And I wont use the hydrex stuff either...Ill stick to distilled water until I WC the GPU later on down the road if it requires the hydrex...

 

[Spawn-Inc]

don't forget the pt nuke for a biocide

since your running only distilled water get this version of pt nuke

if you want to add dye, i would only use feser view uv dye, get this version of pt nuke.

 

[BlkCamaro55]

don't forget the pt nuke for a biocide

since your running only distilled water get this version of pt nuke

if you want to add dye, i would only use feser view uv dye, get this version of pt nuke.

I have that noted thanks again...now as for the length in tubing...All I am doing is the CPU block. How much tubing should I order? I was thinking 6ft. BUT seems too much to me for this setup?

 

[Spawn-Inc]

every order i do i get 10 feet and end up with about 2-3 feet left over.

also for the most part when you order alot from jabtech they reduce prices.

e.g masterkleer is .59 a foot if you order 10 feet they drop it to .49 a foot.

 

[BlkCamaro55]

every order i do i get 10 feet and end up with about 2-3 feet left over.

also for the most part when you order alot from jabtech they reduce prices.

e.g masterkleer is .59 a foot if you order 10 feet they drop it to .49 a foot.

AHH ok sounds good...ok now as far as the two fans go for my rad...should I use the two fans that were supplied with the case that are on the top right now? Or do I need to get better ones? And if so, recommendations?

 

[BlkCamaro55]

Here is my shopping cart so far minus the radiator...let me know if it looks ok, I wanna get this ish ordered and sent out...

*screenie was taken on my macbook...desktop is in pieces being prepared for this WC build*

 

[Spawn-Inc]

if your going with the black ice GTX then i would get 2 high speed yates. or 4 medium speed.

if you running distilled water only get the PT nuke PHN kind, you have the original one.

if your wanting to replace the plastic barbs with metal ones you will need more then 2. you would need 4 or 6 pending if you get the D5 top.

 

[BlkCamaro55]

if your going with the black ice GTX then i would get 2 high speed yates. or 4 medium speed.

if you running distilled water only get the PT nuke PHN kind, you have the original one.

if your wanting to replace the plastic barbs with metal ones you will need more then 2. you would need 4 or 6 pending if you get the D5 top.

Ok I switched out the PT nuke to the PHN kind, and should I replace the barbs on the res? If recommended then I will. And as for the D5 top, is it really necessary for this WC build right now? or can I upgrade to that a lil later? Thanks again for the replys

 

[Spawn-Inc]

i would never get it for the d5 as its price is not worth the small amount of performance gain. now if it was like the mcp355 with stock 3/8 barbs i would replace the top.

i personally don't like plastic barbs so i would swap them out for metal ones.

 

[BlkCamaro55]

Ok, I bought everything else but am stuck on the radiator now...thats all I need I am stuck between two of them...

Feser X Changer Dual 120

http://www.petrastechshop.com/fexdu12ra.html

OR...

XSPC RX240 Dual 120

http://www.petrastechshop.com/xsrxdu12ra.html

 

[Conumdrum]

Some like XSPC more. I got a 360 one about 8 months ago when it was on sale. Good packaging! NO Barbs! Some like Feser. Meh, your choice.

And the 220 size might be pushing it if you have warm summer temps. Spend the extra and go 320 if you can. You can never overrad, you can underrad and have to spend more later.

The plastic barbs on that res are terrible, make sure you replace them.

And I see no clamps at all, how are you going to keep water from dripping everywhere?

Here is a link for what you do once it all arrives, it's a whole new game with water.

http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=312743

 

[BlkCamaro55]

Some like XSPC more. I got a 360 one about 8 months ago when it was on sale. Good packaging! NO Barbs! Some like Feser. Meh, your choice.

And the 220 size might be pushing it if you have warm summer temps. Spend the extra and go 320 if you can. You can never overrad, you can underrad and have to spend more later.

The plastic barbs on that res are terrible, make sure you replace them.

And I see no clamps at all, how are you going to keep water from dripping everywhere?

Here is a link for what you do once it all arrives, it's a whole new game with water.

http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=312743

Ahh Ive been waiting on you to reply haha...ok well lets discuss this rad...I would love to get the 320 but I want it in the case. I would prefer not to put it on the outside. As for the for the barbs, I did get new ones for the reservoir, and I added clamps to it. That was an early screenie from today...so what about this rad? cause i dont think the 320 would fit inside

 

[Conumdrum]

Fitting a rad in xx is one thing. Trying to beat physics is another. The i7 gives out xx heat, the rad takes most of it out, but the water temps will rise of course. With a 220 your Delta T ratio between the ambient air temp and water temp could suffer. If your water temps are xx above ambient with your common load usage, then your CPU temps will suck.

This is where spending a few weeks reading and learning and asking questions come into play. Ever read this web page?

http://martin.skinneelabs.com/


Try the 220, if the temps aren't good enough just buy the 320 size. Easy enough.