MY WC loop is not performing as well as I would hope

[Graystar]

Nothing affects cooling like the amount of air moved through the rad. In my experience, it's usually easy to see the effects of different fans on temperature.

If you changed from a quiet fan to a loud fan and didn't see a change, then there might be something wrong with the way you're measuring temps because you really should have seen a temp change.

 

[Springbok]

Not true, I use two silent fans on my BIX2 and I get great temps.

 

[darkcow]

maybe you should wait for the water temps to cool down some. run on idle for a bit so all of the water can cool down. there could still be quite a bit of heat inside the loop if you changed out your fans quickly.

 

[nikhsub1]

I can't believe that no one mentioned this, but he is using a single fan BIX... this is the problem. The rad is too small to do the job. Get a dual fan rad and your temps will be much better.

 

[darkcow]

I can't believe that no one mentioned this, but he is using a single fan BIX... this is the problem. The rad is too small to do the job. Get a dual fan rad and your temps will be much better.

i think i mentioned that earlier but no one though about it too much i don't think.

but defiantly a single rad can't handle a super over clocked rig. i would feel better with a tuniq tower than a single fan rad.

 

[SolidxSnake]

I don't see why a single fan rad can't handle just a CPU?

 

[nikhsub1]

I don't see why a single fan rad can't handle just a CPU?

It can handle it as you see, but good performance and 'handling it' are two very different things... FWIW I measured my ambient air temp compared to my water temps. Air temp = 21.1C, Water temp = 23.33C. The problem with that rad is i bet the water/air delta is like 10c at least.

 

[QuietIce]

Recap:

~2.8GHz X2
Storm
unmodified 18w MCP350? (1/2" tubing?)
single fan rad using air from inside the case or some recirculated PSU air if it's blowing in


With a set-up like that can those really be "bad" temps ...?

 

[nikhsub1]

Recap:

~2.8GHz X2
Storm
unmodified 18w MCP350? (1/2" tubing?)
single fan rad using air from inside the case or some recirculated PSU air if it's blowing in


With a set-up like that can those really be "bad" temps ...?

Kind of exactly what I'm thinking.

 

[SolidxSnake]

Kind of exactly what I'm thinking.

I thought he's using an Apogee?


I am so confused.

 

[nikhsub1]

I thought he's using an Apogee?


I am so confused.

The WB is of little matter... the fact is he is using a small rad.

 

[raevien]

I was just doing another touch test, because I bumped up the vcore to burnin at 2.85 GHz, back up to 48C load already, and I noticed something. Actually I have the pump going intothe Rad and then into the block. Not sure How I switched that around without noticing.

I would drain and try another configuration out but I really dont feel like doing that again. No more water additives nor money for anything till the 1st

You might consider not adding anything to the system but the water untill you are satisfied with the setup. Running for a day or two with just water won't hurt anything and will save your wallet.

 

[SolidxSnake]

The WB is of little matter... the fact is he is using a small rad.

Well I know with a storm, he could have had the hoses backwards.

 

[Neuromancer]

Yah its the switchtech storm block and the pump is the red impeller. No mod top though just 1/2" barbs. Just switched the fan back to the quiet cooler master and still have the same load temps.

(I do have the hoses mounted properly now ) I have the pump on the bottom of the case. (only 6" from the CPU though) does it need to be mounted sideways? Oh yah I have pics now, might as well post them

Sorry bout the crappy camera

 

[SolidxSnake]

Looks like it goes

res>pump>cpu>rad>res?

I still don't see why I single rad can't handle that CPU. I never knew that a CPU ran hot enough to justify a double-rad.

Still a WC newb, I suppose

 

[nikhsub1]

Looks like it goes

res>pump>cpu>rad>res?

I still don't see why I single rad can't handle that CPU. I never knew that a CPU ran hot enough to justify a double-rad.

Still a WC newb, I suppose

It's not that it can't handle it, it can for sure. You just won't get the best results with such a small rad.

 

[Maviryk]

... if that MCP350 isn't modded... how is the inlet and outlet at 90degrees to each other and not parallel.

Did they make MCP350's like that?

 

[Neuromancer]

... if that MCP350 isn't modded... how is the inlet and outlet at 90degrees to each other and not parallel.

Did they make MCP350's like that?

It is modded. 1/2" barb mod. Also its a red impeller which has differnet specs (IIRC), though I dont recall what they were.

Another thought. When I have a pianted heatsink, I lap it, partly to make it level but in reality I think the best performance comes from getting rid of whatever paint is on there and getting down to straight ALuminum or Cu-pper.

Why do all rads come painted? Doesnt that Hurt thermal dissipation?


EDIT: I get that the rad is small. But shouldnt the increase in fan pressure make a differnece in temps? 3 differnet fans from leaf blower to silent, all provide the same results.
I am starting to think that one guys suggestion of Rad to pump might not be a bad idea.

OH Just thought of something else. I got the stuff used... maybe I need to flush the loop? MAybe there is corrosion or gunk on the inside? If so what do ya'll use to de gunkify your loops?

 

[Maviryk]

Go to autozone... ask them for a heatercore... fedco 2-199... it will cost you $20.01. Go back the next and pick it up, trip down the copper tubing and leave 1" to stretch your tubing over. Rinse it out, plug it in.

Badabing bada boom. Better temps. You can make a shroud out of some black posterboard/ducttape and viola! better temps. I'm currently using 2 fedco 2-199's with only a single 120mm fan in a pull config. Quiet, cool, cost effective.

And yes... don't paint the rad fins. Insulation bad.

 

[QuietIce]

OH Just thought of something else. I got the stuff used... maybe I need to flush the loop? MAybe there is corrosion or gunk on the inside? If so what do ya'll use to de gunkify your loops?

With a new heater core it's common to add vinegar and warm water and let it sit over-night, then rinse thoroughly the next day. That removes most of the junk from the manufacturing process. For other things that might be there? Maybe some tile cleaner for scale removal?

BTW - Were you saying res -> pump -> rad -> block as jph1589 suggested? No reason that can't work ...