Need a new mobo ASAP

[mr.voldemorton]

Hey, I am a long time computer user/hacker/builder, but this is my first time on a forum like this. I am in the middle of building my second PC from scratch (the rest of my PCs have been used Dells I got from my work which I fixed up). I purchased an ASUS M4A78LT-M LE from Amazon, the first one I got was DOA, so I returned it; the second one loaded windows 7 x64 fine, but I cannot get the graphics to work, I am using an EVGA nVidia 8800gt card which worked fine in my old computer. I can't play any form of video or view any pictures or play any games, (online or from my HD) without lines, grains, and a strange bluish hue to them. I tried using the onboard graphics and an nVidia Quadro FX 3450 instead of the 8800gt, but to no avail. I've decided to just give this one back and buy a new Mobo, but I need suggestions, I'm willing to pay $100 max.

 

[RGone]

AMD board? Onboard video a "must" or not? What you going to put in it for memory? DDR2 or DDR3? mATX or full ATX. Do you intend to overclock? Lot of information needed to give a recommend that makes much sense. Thanks.

 

[RJARRRPCGP]

A bluish hue sounds like a problem with the DVI connector. (If you're not still using the VGA-style one)

 

[mr.voldemorton]

Yes, It's an AMD board, I don't really care about onboard graphics either way as I use my own GPU. My connector is DVI, which was working fine with my old computer, I guess I'll try another cable just in case. I have DDR3 Ram, I would prefer ATX, but I can deal with mATX.

 

[woboy]

Look for an 870 board, 850 nothbridge if you can live with 16x, 4xPCIe.
Lots around $100. VRM heat sinks a plus,

 

[mr.voldemorton]

is it better to get it without onboard graphics since I won't be using them?

 

[RGone]

ASUS M4A87T AM3 AMD 870 SATA 6Gb/s ATX AMD Motherboard << NO Usb 3.0

Probably will not support coming BullDozer. Did not check that.

 

[woboy]

Usually 870 boards are the least expensive ATX boards.
890 boards use the same northbidge/southbridge, and have onboard video, 880 boards have onboard video but are usually mATX.
On board graphics are only really useful (when you have a video card) for trouble shooting or if you have video card problems.

 

[mr.voldemorton]

That makes sense... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131668 Is this ASUS M4A88T-V EVO/USB3 AM3 AMD 880G HDMI USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard any good? It seems to be complying with the guidelines you guys threw out there. And I know that I sound like a total noob saying this, but what do you mean by bulldozer? Also, would you consider Asus to be the best, how are MSI and Biostar?

 

[mr.voldemorton]

is the ASUS M4N75TD any good? Seems to have pretty good reviews

 

[RGone]

That makes sense... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131668 Is this ASUS M4A88T-V EVO/USB3 AM3 AMD 880G HDMI USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard any good? << Probably a good choice but has onboard video which you may not need It seems to be complying with the guidelines you guys threw out there.

And I know that I sound like a total noob saying this, but what do you mean by bulldozer? << BullDozer is a brand new AMD cpu type and architecture.

Also, would you consider Asus to be the best, how are MSI and Biostar? << Brands of motherboard can be a very personal thing. Over the course of the last 3 years or so, some pretty well known motherboard producers have LEFT the market. This has left the DIY consumer with less choices. MSI has issues at times that seem not quickly addressed, but many would only use MSI. Biostar has been hit and miss as well. Asus and Gigabyte are the last Big Two. I prefer the Asus since they have gone to the UEFI bios already and that is the new type of bios that will allow a Windows install that is going to give new features that are trickling into computer usage. Overall motherboard choice is a personal thing for many and can cause great debates. I just look at the biggest picture I can when choosing and right now that hits for me on Asus.

 

[mr.voldemorton]

@RGone thanks! I will probably go with that one then. I have had good experiences with Asus, up until this board, so I think I will just bite the bullet and stop being a cheapskate; I didn't want to pay over 70 bucks, but I'm starting to realize that whatever brand you buy, you need to spend a good bit of money so you don't get a piece of junk.

 

[RGone]

@RGone thanks! I will probably go with that one then. I have had good experiences with Asus, up until this board, so I think I will just bite the bullet and stop being a cheapskate; I didn't want to pay over 70 bucks, but I'm starting to realize that whatever brand you buy, you need to spend a good bit of money so you don't get a piece of junk.

I have always heard that old saying about: "you get what you pay for".

I have changed that to: you will 'only' get what you pay for and I hope that I get 'what' I paid for. Cheap can only be cheap at the expense of something.

Make sure the power supply is up to the task. We have had two or three long threads here lately with a cheap0 power supply being the offending culprit. Power is the first thing to come into play when one powers on, good power makes that experience less troublesome in the long run. Just a thought.

 

[mr.voldemorton]

What do you classify as good and bad power? I have and Ultra 500 watt...

 

[woboy]

You need to read up on power supply basics. jonnyguru would be a good start, though a bit dedicated to the art.
Ultra, last I knew was a Tigerdirect house brand known for many bad and a few good power supplies. Usually wiggle out of warranty claims.
Others may feel differently or I may be listening to the wrong people.
Generally Seasonic is the most respected builder, several respected names use their designs.
Corsair is a consistently good choice with good customer service, rebates are often available.
Antec is a mostly good to very good name, also with good customer service.
Enermax is good to excellent usually upscale priced.
PC Power and Cooling has a top level reputation and a reputation for high pricng.
XFX has been a source for Seasonic builds for less than Seasonic charges.

Antec High Current Gamer 400 watt power supply is on sale at newegg, $45 shipped with $15 MIR Rebate.
Antec Neo ECO 520 watt $58, 620 watt $73, very good buys when on sale or with rebates.
Corsair value line is their CX series, often rebated.

Motherboards are designed to a price, some components and features cost more so you pay more.
Dell and other oem builders decide what will sell and have that built for them, if you need more buy a new computer.
Enthusiast boards can be just as basic or support major upgrades or superior features.
Overclocking requires a more complex Bios/Cmos and adjustable on board power.
How many memory slots?
How many PCIe x 16 sockets at what speed (primarily Crossfire or SLI concerns, ie multiple cooperative video cards).
PCI and PCIe sockets.
Which sound chip.
Which input/output plugs.
On board diagnostics?
A motherboard uses its own power on board The Voltage Regulating Modules, VRM, two types available, arranged in "phases" .
For a straight forward build not a biggy, for high performance makes serious differences.
And on ..

 

[RGone]

What do you classify as good and bad power? I have and Ultra 500 watt...

Ultra 500 watt does not add much to the story. I see Ultra 500watt Xconnect, V series and at least PS series. There would be differences if I even went to g00gle some reviews.

Over the course of time, I have come to like single rail power supplies. (that is me!) Below are good specs for something not overclocked to hale and back and with a mid to high end video card. Maybe not two high end 580 Nvidia video cards but a single video card.

650W
80 PLUS SILVER Certified
+3.3V@25A,+5V@30A,+12V@46A, [email protected],+5VSB @ 3.0A << That 3.0A +5VSB voltage is a plus with so many Usb devices that are now in use on many users systems. Many never even thing about the Standby Current supply but today it can be a big plus.

 

[woboy]

mr. voldemorton appears to be on a budget build (M4A78LT-M LE is a clue). Generally a power supply providing 400 honest continuous watts (mostly on the 12 volt rail(s)) is fine for any budget and some enthusiast systems.
The Antec EA380 Earthwatts and the EA430 Earthwatts are often used in "tomshardware" $500 quarterly gaming builds. Not a perfect recommendation but good enough.
Component prices should balance, without details this is guess work.
mr.voldemorton is apparently familiar with most of the details filtered thru oem manufacturer experience.
This leaves a separate and new education requirement. How seriously this may be pursued I do not know.
Yes this is an overclockers forum, but this seems distant from the question asked.

Separate comment, there are times a single 12 volt rail is reassuring, times it is not.
As long as rail(s) are done correctly it makes very little difference.

 

[mr.voldemorton]

yeah I am on a budget. This is the power supply I bought for my last build 2 years ago and I've had no problems with it. I don't have the money to buy a power supply right now, do you think the one I have right now will be okay at least for the next two months or so? I have one IDE DVD drive, two sata HDDs, an EVGA nVidia 8800gt and a 120mm and 140mm fan and 8 gbs of patriot Sector 5 1333 mhz DDR3, and an AMD Phenom II x4 3.3ghz ( I don't overclock, I don't trust myself to not break something).

 

[RGone]

IF you are on a budget and that means no new power supply anyway, then it does not matter what or which way we think about the power supply you already have. Plug it in and see how it goes. If all goes to suit you and all works...then no harm no foul.

 

[woboy]

You have it and it has worked without issues. Just be aware for future purchases there are quality differences.
There is no enforcement body for power supply specifications and many ways to cheat.
The worst aspects of Ultra I've heard are their ability to avoid warranty claims and mediocre build quality.
Again, they vary by specific model.

Most common is to use peak power ratings at low temperature. Older designs produce more power on the 3.3 volt and 5 volt output. Therefore their useful power is less.
Modern designs produce near their rated power on their 12 volt output.
Efficiency ratings are European, testing is 220 volt and 40 degrees Celsius.
The best power supplies use 120 volt and 50 degree ratings.
Some manufacturers claim efficiency rating without ever being tested.
Capacitor quality affects performance and life of power supplies.
Generally the use of Japanese brands indicate top quality units, Taiwanese can be very good. Chinese companies vary in quality.
105 degree C ratings are preferred to 85 degree.
The number and length of cables..
AND on..