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DON'T spend your money on that Kingwin junk. It is cheap, does not last, and will not give you good temps.
 
need something cheap to keep my 6400 cool, getting to hot to handle.
 
EC8 said:
need something cheap to keep my 6400 cool, getting to hot to handle.


If you want something cheap, it ain't going to work good and it'll be a waste of $$. Do yourself a favor, invest a few more $$ in a good block/kit and you'll be alot happier trust me.

You buy junk and it'll be alot more than just a few dollars you'll be losing.
 
Listen to them, don't buy a kit learn from mee, build the kit with a little extra $$ it is so worth it.


All from petra's tech shop:

Laing D5 pump=74.99
Swiftech MCR-220 rad=44.99
Masterclear 7/8"id 3/4" tube=.75 ft
Swiftech Apogee Gt=48.99 or Swiftexh Agopee GTX-78.99
EK FC-8800GTX or GTS=109.99

Total=$286.46 + s&h under 300

Kits:
Kit #1 $218.99 +s&h
Kit #2 $249.99 =s&h

So you see it is not that much more then any of the worth while kits out there to spend the extra $$ and even get the EK GPU block for under $300.00 i doubt you can beat that. It is way worth it to piece together your own kit then to buy a kit.

Hope this helps, and if you guys have a better suggestion on part please correct me for i am not a WC pro just pointing out the cost difference using good enough components to keep it on the low side but good on the performance side.
 
Ok, decided to take the risk of doing a DIY after all im an Electrical Fitter this shouldnt be such a problem!!

Few questions to start with,
Whats the best CPU(775)/Northbridge/GPU(8800) water blocks out there?
Will an aquarium water pump of around 400L/Ph do?
And any idea if these 5&1/4" drive bay radiators are any good and efficient?
1/2" or 3/8"?
 
Don't bother with a northbridge block too much restriction. EK, Swiftech. XSPC and Danger Den are all great blocks for CPU same for your 8800 but AVOID full cover blocks, get a core block and ram sinks. For the pump l/ph isn't important, hmax/max head/head pressure are important 2m+ is what you want. You don't get drive bay radiators you get drive bay reservoirs. Get a dual 120mm radiator at the very least. If your pump is inline use a T-line to fill it if its submersible just submerse it :p And last but not least, 1/2" is the best but only by a few degrees at most.
 
sorry to contradict but yes you do get drive bay radiators. why no northbridge coolers, its currently at 43c at full constant load (with as), and at a mere 2.6Ghz, im sure it will rise more with a larger oc and local tempretures have yet to rise by another 10c approx. So I think i realy need a chipset block.
 
Ok so 1.11 degree over 1/4" happy?? :p Northbridge blocks add a lot of restriction to the water loop and don't offer much gain. When you overclock you can control the multi of your NB meaning that even if your FSB raises to 500FSB a 2x FSB-NB multi still keeps it the same frequency. So the temps probably won't rise significantly. Sorry about the radiator thing, i've never seen them over here in the UK.
 
Denbob99 said:
Northbridge blocks add a lot of restriction to the water loop and don't offer much gain.
Actually, the Swiftech MCW30 doesn't...

And for a reason to have one? Silence? I don't have a fan on my NB as it is underwater...and I love it for that reason. I also see NO hit in temps if I remove my NB block from my loop.
 
den my mobo doesnt offer nb multi's (p5b-e), so that is deffinetly out of the question. Tempretures will be in the high 30c next week, ill have an apportunity to check if nb temps will rise significantly, if they stay below 45c I think I might aswell do without wc the nb but if its higher I guess il have no choice.
 
I still hold by the HR-05 (SLI). Keeps my NB under 45c even in 85f temps AND it is running fanless.
 
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