Need Opinions...quickly

[Daddyjaxx]

I'm thinking about setting the beast up into one loop. I've never done this before, so I need to ask. Can you setup two reservoirs each with dual MCP35Xs into one loop? I want all the pumping power I can get. I'd just fill on the top res and wouldn't even turn on the pumps in res2 until it was full.

Here's the general plan.....

Res1--> CPU--> PCH--> VRM--> Top 480 rad--> 3 x 780TI in series--> Front 240 rad--> Res2---> through 2 or 3 480 rads, haven't decided yet--> back to res1. Or Res2---> Front 240 rad first.

No opinions that I don't need to w/c the motherboard. I know that. I WANT to. Technically, you don't HAVE to water cool ANYTHING.

 

[gregmacknass]

Yes that will work just fine.

 

[EarthDog]

It will work fine. Just know anything over 1.5gpm gives severely diminishing returns.

 

[Diggrr]

Res1--> CPU--> PCH--> VRM--> Top 480 rad--> 3 x 780TI in series--> Front 240 rad--> Res2---> through 2 or 3 480 rads, haven't decided yet--> back to res1. Or Res2---> Front 240 rad first.

Wow! that's like trying to follow the wife through the mall man....confusing!
I'd say put a pump/res in front of each major restriction, then the lesser ones, then on to the next res in the chain. Like res1>CPU>motherboard blocks> couple of rads>res2>video trio> more rads> back to res1. It puts the pumps on opposite ends of the loop so to speak, and the cooling power where it's needed.
The rads will cool the water for the next section to take over.
Personally, it's only a couple degrees difference, if any, so you could run it whichever way that used the least tubing and the most direct path for the loop. I just dig symmetry, grasshopper.

Technically, you don't HAVE to water cool ANYTHING.

Them's fighting words, you know that, right?

 

[caddi daddi]

that'll work.

 

[Daddyjaxx]

Hey we are all computer nerds and this is nerd drag racing.

Thanks everyone for your opinions. I will take all into consideration when I start running tubing. I'll be using black tubing with red compression and red tubing with black compression. I will also be using red LED's in the CPU, VRM, and PCH blocks instead of red coloring in the water.

 

[Daddyjaxx]

It will work fine. Just know anything over 1.5gpm gives severely diminishing returns.

If I could do 10 GPM, I would. The Bitfenix Pro fans are silent, but they have less than 2 in static pressure. I want quiet and good cooling = not cheap. The last thing I want is 14 screaming Deltas at 250 CFM. Sure, I want a bunch of 50 DB fans pulling 60w each.

 

[EarthDog]

What I alluded to that I don't think was picked up on was that it won't matter over 1.5gpm flow... At least to the point of lowering fan speeds etc.

I'd but more appropriate fans before I would Jack the flow up over 1.5gpm to get better temps and be more quiet.

Either way, good luck.

 

[Witchdoctor]

Not sure I understand what you are trying to do ?

What I think I am reading you want to cool 3x 780Ti's and t 4960X with very little noise ?

If this is the case why are you looking at flow rates instead of surface area ?

key to silence will be to get each 120mm x 120mm area of rad surface responcible for the lowest amount of wattage possible

For silent operation I would say 120.14 would be doable. that would get you to 66 watts per fan

 

[Daddyjaxx]

OK, next question then. Do you think one res with 2 MCP35X pumps is good enough to go through a CPU, VRM, PCH, 3 GPU's in series, and 4 rads totaling 120.14 or still split them into two loops? OC'd, the CPU has to do close to 200w and I have no clue the VRM's and PCH output.

 

[Diggrr]

I think two of those pumps will work just fine, wether separate or cascaded one into the other (like swifys dual pump top). We talk restrictions all day long, but it truly takes a lot to get these pumps below a 1 gpm+ goal.

It sounds silly, but my personal test is, if I can draw a breath through the setup without turning purple, the pumps will have zero problem.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

You should be good with 2 MCP35x for such a complex loop but there's nothing wrong with adding 2 more to the mix. You'll just run them at a lower speed instead of 1 or 2 at a higher rating. Are you using a flow sensor as well? You should be good regardless. I would go for the cleanest and shortest routing possible since your loop will reach its equilibrium. Maybe a few degrees might be shed if you put it in a certain order but nothing major.

I am not sure how great those fans are but I think the top rad fans are the B12 PWM from Noiseblockers. I believe they are the closest thing to the ol' AP15s.

 

[mimart7]

If you go the dual 35x route, I recommend this, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ch_MCP35x2_Dual_Pump_Heatsink_MCP35X2-HS.html It will help keep the pumps cooler, and they will last longer.

 

[Daddyjaxx]

The fans are decent. I had a boatload of brand new Gentle Typhoons that I sold on eBay. I should have kept them.

Uh... 33.00 per fan sleeved a different color than black? 16 x 33 = 528.00 for fans?

What's the best way to keep LED's in water blocks besides super glue?

 

[Techjesse]

The fans are decent. I had a boatload of brand new Gentle Typhoons that I sold on eBay. I should have kept them.

Uh... 33.00 per fan sleeved a different color than black? 16 x 33 = 528.00 for fans?

What's the best way to keep LED's in water blocks besides super glue?

Press Fit your LED's, Yep, Two Pumps, for sure! Make sure your fittings don't blow apart... the PSI will max out with all the restrictions Cool build!

 

[Daddyjaxx]

The only way I can use the LED light is if I scotch tape them to the CPU block. If I place them at the top, they hit the VRM block, the sides the RAM, the bottom hits the GPU. This is if I use the LED holes. Can I like scotch tape them to the sides. that's doable.

I would assume a few LED's aren't too powerful for a fan header considering the power, reset, and HD activity are LED's...at least on my case.

 

[Diggrr]

Nah, a fan header should take an Amp of draw. LED's are just milliamperes. So no sweat there.
Scotch taping the LED's is also no problem, just be sure that no exposed metal on the leads can touch the metal on the block, and you're good there too.

 

[Daddyjaxx]

I'd bet you that my motherboard tray weighs at least 25 pounds with the motherboard, VRM, PCH, CPU, 3 x 780TI blocks with back plates. It is is heavy.

I'm sticking with two loops. What's funny is I read a thread on here awhile back that someone was having major troubles fitting the round o rings into the oval EK terminal connection. It took me about 5 minutes to put all six o rings into the terminal block.

I had to take it apart again since I need to install a 90 degree output fitting. I couldn't do it with the terminal installed.

This was the first time I have been able to change the plate on an EK CPU block without both o rings becoming dislodged. The plate o ring is no big deal, but the main one that is like a pentagon is a pain to put back in place.

I've been using Tygon tubing until this build which I'm using Primochill LRT Pro. That tubing is a pain to get on the EK and Bitspower fittings. Tygon would slip on easy. This is like trying to use 7/16 on 1/2 barbs.

More pictures on Project Last Chance soon.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

I'd stick with Primochill advanced LRT. I've seen bad tubing with Tygon and the old Primochill LRT Pro. Clouding and plasticize took over for many unfortunately.

 

[Techjesse]

Daddyjaxx, Here's a small tip you may already know, place the tip of tubing in hot water for a short amount of time then press the tubing onto the fitting. I myself just power it on LOL Yeah, you must have your CaseLabs Case

Pics, we need pics

Found you other thread, WoW CaseLabs STH10 with Pedestal, WoW!