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New build for 1440p gaming

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If you're satisfied with the fan noise level of the cooler as it is, then just leave it alone. The main benefit of push pull on an AIO is it provides approximately the same cooling power at lower fan rpms.
 
...and more cooling at higher RPM, especially with higher FPI rads. ;)

I agree but that's why I specified AIO. Most AIO's don't have thick rads or high FPI. On a thin, low FPI rad, push pull fans don't seem to improve cooling much over just push or pull running at full bore in my experience. Maybe a degree or two.
 
Most AIO's don't have thick rads or high FPI.
I'm on the other side of the spectrum... I'd rather run a single fan on the lowest setting anyway. Two just makes more noise.

It depends on what one calls high FPI. But some sure do! :)
 
A push or pull PWM fan running at say, a very quiet 500 rpm on an AIO, may not provide adequate cooling even for light duty computing. It may very well ramp up and down. A push pull setup at 500 rpm may still be essentially inaudible but provide enough more air flow through the rad to prevent that constant ramping up and down because it doesn't hit the next temp threshold on the fan profile.
 
It won't? I've run anything from a 2600K up to an 8700K on an AIO with a fan/s set on low. If, for some reason, the fan/s ramp up on light loads, adjust the fan curve to stay lower longer. There are different ways to skin this cat. :)
 
Let me put it this way: Using a push pull fan setup in which I replaced the high speed noisy OEM cooler fans with slower, quieter ones on my AIO enabled me to set a fan curve speed that gives the same or slightly better cooling performance with less overall noise than using a push or pull only fan setup and that applies to both idle conditions and load conditions.
 
Oh I believe you... as I said, several ways to skin this cat. :)

I just find that a single quiet fan already at its lowest setting is quieter than two fans at their lowest setting. If it ramps up under light load, change the curve. :thup:
 
Oh I believe you... as I said, several ways to skin this cat. :)

I just find that a single quiet fan already at its lowest setting is quieter than two fans at their lowest setting. If it ramps up under light load, change the curve. :thup:

To set the fan curve to get the same "quiet" with a single push or pull fan as I get with a push pull fan setup doesn't give me as good a temps because to achieve the same noise level I have to drop the RPM level of the single fan down far enough that it doesn't cool as well. At least that is what my ears tell me.
 
I hear ya (no pun intended)... I dont tend to fret over a couple/few C as I used to. Now, I just set things at low and what will be is what will be. Which usually gets me within a couple of hundred MHz away from those pushing things. But I can see why a few C less,quiet, and more headroom is sought after.
 
I have 3 Noctua NF-A12s hooked up to the AIO at 2000rpm and don't notice the noise at all while gaming. I think I hear the other case fans over those to be honest.
 
I have 3 Noctua NF-A12s hooked up to the AIO at 2000rpm and don't notice the noise at all while gaming. I think I hear the other case fans over those to be honest.

No, you wouldn't notice it while gaming. It was at idle and light computing is where I see the noise benefit. With only push or pull at low fan speeds I wasn't getting enough flow through the rad to keep temps down to the level I wanted due to core turbo spikes. If I set the fan cure to reduce temp spikes the fans would ramp up and down. The push pull setup gives much better flow at low ran RPMs and cures that issue.

Just won a EVGA CLC 280mm All-In-One for $70 plus shipping on ebay yesterday. It was brand new in box from an estate sale. Since I don't have on hand another set of 140mm fans to make that one push pull at the moment, I'll be going with the stock one side fan arrangement. Maybe the extra rad area will compensate for that. We'll see how that goes.
 
No, you wouldn't notice it while gaming. It was at idle and light computing is where I see the noise benefit. With only push or pull at low fan speeds I wasn't getting enough flow through the rad to keep temps down to the level I wanted due to core turbo spikes. If I set the fan cure to reduce temp spikes the fans would ramp up and down. The push pull setup gives much better flow at low ran RPMs and cures that issue.

Just won a EVGA CLC 280mm All-In-One for $70 plus shipping on ebay yesterday. It was brand new in box from an estate sale. Since I don't have on hand another set of 140mm fans to make that one push pull at the moment, I'll be going with the stock one side fan arrangement. Maybe the extra rad area will compensate for that. We'll see how that goes.

That's awesome that you won that! I like the 360 for sure.
 
Okay so the build is randomly restarting while either browsing the web or watching youtube... I can play games all day and not have any issues.... Bad PSU? I've run tests on the RAM and hard drive. Windows is updated as well.
 
If you can play games (taking about AAA games, not solitaire) and have no problems then it's probably not the PSU.

How did you test the RAM? I would recommend memtest86.

What you describe could be a GPU driver. There has been considerable criticism about buggy drivers for the latest generation of AMD graphics cards.

Which GSkill product are you using? GSKill produces a number of different RAM products that all run at 3600 mhz but have different chips and timings. The problem you are describing could also be a RAM issue. You might try adding .025 or .05 to the stock DDR voltage. Oftentimes, this will compensate for RAM sub timings that are not quite right for Ryzen out of the box.
 
This is the RAM. It's supposed to run at 1.35v and that's what I have it set to in BIOS
https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232195?Item=N82E16820232195

Maybe I should try an older AMD driver for the graphics card?

I used the Windows memory checker. I'm trying to get memtest to load from a flash drive but for some reason it won't boot from it. I've tried setting the boot priority to the USB drive but it won't boot from it. Perhaps I am missing a setting somewhere?
 
I didn't have a problem booting from a memtest86 USB stick. Instead of making the USB stick the boot priority, try using the boot order hot key and choose the UEFI option for the stick in the boot options list.
 
Let me check out that memtest USB boot issue. I've always run it from an optical disk.

I certainly would try a different driver for the GPU. Can't hurt anything.

Run system file checker and run it this way: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4026529/windows-10-using-system-file-checker

Okay I ran the system file checker and no problems


With the GPU driver, should I scrub the old driver somehow? Haven't ever gone back to an old driver for a GPU

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I didn't have a problem booting from a memtest86 USB stick. Instead of making the USB stick the boot priority, try using the boot order hot key and choose the UEFI option for the stick in the boot options list.

Okay, I'm zeroing the USB and going to try it again
 
Okay so the build is randomly restarting while either browsing the web or watching youtube... I can play games all day and not have any issues.... Bad PSU? I've run tests on the RAM and hard drive. Windows is updated as well.

Do you see any WHEA-Logger events in the event viewer? These would point to a hardware error most likely related to the PCI-e slot which means a GPU-related error. I've heard there are problems with some X570 motherboards running RX 5700 XT GPUs.
 
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