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New pelt setup underway! **Pics Inside** (not 56k friendly)

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Pirate_Freder said:
oh lol my bad i meant an outPUT :p. so yeah how much wattage of dissapation in the rads does it take to hit ambient with about 400w coming out of the hot side of the tec?
Well, I don't think you would reach that kind of heat with just a CPU and a TEC. For example, my CPU pumps out about 135W when overclocked. The TEC being run at 12.3V is adding about 165W. So that's about 300W together. The pump is throwing in another 24W as well. But my BIX III, mcp655, and 1/2 tubing seem to be taking care of the job pretty well. Unfortunately, it would be difficult to do an exact calculation of how much a water loop could dissipate. There's just too many factors (such as flow rate, ambient temp, radiator dissipation rating, etc.) Did you check out this guide yet? Notice in the end the author mentions that you pretty much have to just get a general idea of how well a water loop will perform based on the experience of others, and of course your own as you experiment. :)

Pirate_Freder said:
LOL EDIT AGAIN- just saw another thing, what's up with this whole cold bug thing? i've heard mentio of it before. what is it? comp doesn't work cause it's too cold?
Honestly, I'm not really sure. I hear the term used all the time and I think it has to do with a CPU not being able to boot when it's too cold, but I don't really know for sure. Probably someone with a phase change system will come along and enlighten us. :)
 
I've used Tec... about 2 or 3 years ago and found it to be interesting monster. Very inefficient yet easy enough to implement once you have done couple of water cooling loops. (doing it right is different story though).
Cold bug is CPU not being able to boot up/operate below certain cold temperature. It is dependent upon particular cpu as well as motherboard. Worst case I've seen is winchesters which had cold bug with single stages. (talking -30 to -50c only). Recently, most of CPU doesn't have it at that high of temperature. However, majority of them seems to have it around -80 to -100c for coldbugs. (Not talking die temperature but evaporator temperature)
It changes from revision of cpu to different CPU and bit unpredictable. One interesting thing is... if you managed to boot up, chances are you are fine till next shut down as you introduce more heat once computer is up and temperature isn't as cold.
You will not have to worry about it with peltier setups.
 
jinu117 said:
I've used Tec... about 2 or 3 years ago and found it to be interesting monster. Very inefficient yet easy enough to implement once you have done couple of water cooling loops. (doing it right is different story though).
Cold bug is CPU not being able to boot up/operate below certain cold temperature. It is dependent upon particular cpu as well as motherboard. Worst case I've seen is winchesters which had cold bug with single stages. (talking -30 to -50c only). Recently, most of CPU doesn't have it at that high of temperature. However, majority of them seems to have it around -80 to -100c for coldbugs. (Not talking die temperature but evaporator temperature)
It changes from revision of cpu to different CPU and bit unpredictable. One interesting thing is... if you managed to boot up, chances are you are fine till next shut down as you introduce more heat once computer is up and temperature isn't as cold.
You will not have to worry about it with peltier setups.
Thanks for the input jinu. That was sort of what I figured about the "cold bug." . . . But why couldn't someone just turn on their computer without the phase change on, and then turn on the phase change after the computer is already running and heated up a bit (unless the phase change is hooked up on a relay to start automatically)?
 
Joe Camel said:
sorry i should not have used the term "cold bug"....what I meant was an addiction to extreme cooling not the problem CPU/GPU's have under extreme cooling.

OOPS :eek:
That's funny! :D . . . I didn't even make that connection at first.
 
Revivalist said:
......

@ T'wolves - Thanks. I know I need it to be less than 1ohm and able to dissipate about 50W. I found this one and this one so far, but they're about $30! :-/ That's just not realistic for a single rheostat for testing.

That sounds about right, those high Wattage pots are pricey because of what they must endure. Heck the little 20watt ones I used in an old an controller project got damn hot just from a 12v fan :)

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/624/485.pdf
@ Joe Camel - Yes, I do see why you guys were against the idea of trying to make my own, especially with a Storm (ok, I'm embarrassed, thinking about my "noobishness.") . . . As for the electric bill, I figure that it shouldn't be that bad. The Meanwell is basically like having another computer on at the same time. We already have two other computers in the house and my little sister-in-law leaves her computer on 24/7. So I'm hoping there won't be much difference with the new TEC. . . .
the setup, depending on your cost per watt/hour shouldnt be much more than 5$/month on average. (your average P4 HT chip runs about 7$/month)
Plus, I discovered something kinda' neat. . . If I leave the CPU underclocked/undervolted, I can turn the Meanwell off and the CPU temps stay at 30C. That seems fine for daily use. (And it's also a lot more quiet.) . . . Plus, it's fun to hit the switch on the console and see the temp just drop right down into sub-zero mode. :D . . . ok, this "cold bug" thing is getting scary. :eh?:
/begin noobism
Wouldnt drastically changing temps like that cause a stress fracture?(or whatever its called when reffering to CPUs?)
/end noobism
 
pik4chu said:
/begin noobism
Wouldnt drastically changing temps like that cause a stress fracture?(or whatever its called when reffering to CPUs?)
/end noobism
That's funny! Believe me, I'm pretty much a noob who's simply had the privilege of learning from the gurus around here . . .

As for cracking the chip, I've only heard of that happening with liquid nitrogen. I think you need to drop in temperature much more quickly (and probably to a much lower temperature) than a pelt could ever do.
 
DUDE!!! took way to long for this to click with me!!!! :p , but this is bad!!! i just realized on my setup listed in my sig at 2.6-2.7Ghz on a loop with 1/4"!!! tubing and a triple 80mm!!! rad (it's a noobie koolance system) with my gpu/NB/hard drive/cpu all on the loop i get temps of around 35C!!! that's about the same oc as youv'e got so why is it that my temps are almost the same?!?! heat output should be similar... :(
 
Pirate_Freder said:
DUDE!!! took way to long for this to click with me!!!! :p , but this is bad!!! i just realized on my setup listed in my sig at 2.6-2.7Ghz on a loop with 1/4"!!! tubing and a triple 80mm!!! rad (it's a noobie koolance system) with my gpu/NB/hard drive/cpu all on the loop i get temps of around 35C!!! that's about the same oc as youv'e got so why is it that my temps are almost the same?!?! heat output should be similar... :(
I'm not sure if I see the problem here. 35C for a CPU on the same loop as all that other stuff with the tubes and rad you have isn't bad. When I mentioned 35C, I was talking about running my water loop with my TEC turned off which acts essentially like an insulator at that point. However, I only have my CPU on the loop at the moment. . . . I don't see any major discrepancy here. :shrug: . . .

By the way, how come all your stuff is on sale all of a sudden? :eh?:
 
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