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OC.Extreme.Direct Die.mission compact
- Thread starter nunez1980
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2002
- Location
- Coventry Rhode Island
are you putting a screen filter in acumulator
OP
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2002
- Thread Starter
- #23
thanks baker, and I will try to pm bowman, but wich pm should I try, I try the one from xtremeforums, but no answer
, yeah I know his busy, I might try phase-change one
well I really though about it, but decide no to include it, but good that you mentioned that, this brings me to the optinal parts in the phase change cooler
1. the acumulator is optional, it helps to evaporate the remaining liquid
2. we have sight glass, it helps monitor the flow of refrigerant, thouble shoot to some extent, and it helps to fill the system
3. then we have something that uses a screen filter, which is called strainer, and it goes before the capillary
so they go
A. Normally
high side > filtor/drier > capillary
B. With everything
high side > drier/filter > sight glass > strainer > capillary
well this is a pic of a strainer
sight glass
well in the setup I will just included a sight glass, because the down side of a strainer is that it you use it and then need to cut some capillary you won't be able to use it and will have to replay it, and the sight glass looks cool
, yeah I know his busy, I might try phase-change onelclark2074 said:
well I really though about it, but decide no to include it, but good that you mentioned that, this brings me to the optinal parts in the phase change cooler
1. the acumulator is optional, it helps to evaporate the remaining liquid
2. we have sight glass, it helps monitor the flow of refrigerant, thouble shoot to some extent, and it helps to fill the system
3. then we have something that uses a screen filter, which is called strainer, and it goes before the capillary
so they go
A. Normally
high side > filtor/drier > capillary
B. With everything
high side > drier/filter > sight glass > strainer > capillary
well this is a pic of a strainer
sight glass
well in the setup I will just included a sight glass, because the down side of a strainer is that it you use it and then need to cut some capillary you won't be able to use it and will have to replay it, and the sight glass looks cool
OP
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2002
- Thread Starter
- #24
and now the next step would be to select evaporator,
for beginners is always a good idea to do a water chiller, since the evaporator is just plain tubing, thats the easiest to do and a good way to learn so much
and now to the evaporator, so I went and got some copper from onlinemetals.com, they have great prices and they do custom cuts, and they have many ways to ship
in my evaporator I did a maze type, capillary enters through the suction line, and hit the bottom, the freon spreads and runs throught channels at the lower base, and then travel up to the channels on to, and then it exits from the top center.
As I mentioned before, I braze them with STAY-SILV black label flux, and with 15% silver, and use mapp gas torch, since I have two I use them at the same time(saves time) just for the evaporator since you need to put the copper pink in order for the flux, rods, flow and make a good braze
then is pressure tested to 250psi for 24hrs, underwater, guages + water makes it a better test, eather one will tell me if there is a problem, its better to catch things at the beginning
a good guide to do the block, is done by bowman1964,
link to the guide
also there are hallow disigns which are much easier, involves just a tube to hold the liquid being evaporated on top of the cpu, but the only down side is that the mobo must be lay flat, and can't be put vertically,
finally, its a great feeling to make your own things, but sometimes we must be on the look out for great alternatives, and thats were BAKER18 comes in, he has design an excellent block, and are the only ones bowman1964, cooling guru, uses, why? cause they are the best and he help in the final testings, and the price is not bad,
I really wanted to get some,but since I have several here I will just stick to these for now, and will be riding baker babies soon
link to find more info on baker's babies
for beginners is always a good idea to do a water chiller, since the evaporator is just plain tubing, thats the easiest to do and a good way to learn so much
and now to the evaporator, so I went and got some copper from onlinemetals.com, they have great prices and they do custom cuts, and they have many ways to ship
in my evaporator I did a maze type, capillary enters through the suction line, and hit the bottom, the freon spreads and runs throught channels at the lower base, and then travel up to the channels on to, and then it exits from the top center.
As I mentioned before, I braze them with STAY-SILV black label flux, and with 15% silver, and use mapp gas torch, since I have two I use them at the same time(saves time) just for the evaporator since you need to put the copper pink in order for the flux, rods, flow and make a good braze
then is pressure tested to 250psi for 24hrs, underwater, guages + water makes it a better test, eather one will tell me if there is a problem, its better to catch things at the beginning
a good guide to do the block, is done by bowman1964,
link to the guide
also there are hallow disigns which are much easier, involves just a tube to hold the liquid being evaporated on top of the cpu, but the only down side is that the mobo must be lay flat, and can't be put vertically,
finally, its a great feeling to make your own things, but sometimes we must be on the look out for great alternatives, and thats were BAKER18 comes in, he has design an excellent block, and are the only ones bowman1964, cooling guru, uses, why? cause they are the best and he help in the final testings, and the price is not bad,
I really wanted to get some,but since I have several here I will just stick to these for now, and will be riding baker babies soon
link to find more info on baker's babies
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2002
- Thread Starter
- #25
well did a quick test run and got some ice baby, I got to -50c
ok, in this picture, you can see the acumulator, flexible connector, connected to compressor, I will add the sight glass, fix it a little and take many angles so everything could be seen
ok, in this picture, you can see the acumulator, flexible connector, connected to compressor, I will add the sight glass, fix it a little and take many angles so everything could be seen
OP
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2002
- Thread Starter
- #27
Borisw37 said:
hi there,
well lets see
1. The condenser that I'm using has both intake and exhaust same size, don't see a reason why it should be otherwise
2. well, one 1HP=746w, this one is a 1/5HP, so roughly 150w, since it will be only run when ever I used it, so I don't think you will be able to notice the light bill increase by much
3. cost, is a very variable subject, because I recommend people to get used parts, free even better, to save money, but soon when its ready, I will put a list of all parts used, even nuts, I MEAN EVERYTHING, then I will put a price list off all parts new, so you can will be able to see the whole price
and then I will add some money saving technicques
OP
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2002
- Thread Starter
- #29
well a few misc things
first of all, this is the hold down I will be using, made of plexiglass, I have try this size and it holds good, but if you find a piece thicker would be even better,
about insulation, I will be using pipe insulation found in most hardware stores, and some flat neopre, which I found here
this is a great store, for just about anything, mcmaster
and to make things cute, I ordered some color tape and sleeves from wirecare
and remember that I'm using r-22, so to help it I will add some propane, r-290 to the mix
and about testing for pressure and to do vacumn in the system I used and old compressor and wire it up and put two valves, one on the high side for pressure testing of parts, and one on the low side for vacumn the system,
the best way to do a vacumn is to do it three times,
1. vacumn the system
2. add some refrerent and vacumn the it
3. add some more refrerent and vacumn
the longer the vacumn the better, and when adding some refrerent just slighly above atmosphere,
and finally remember I used 10' of .028ID capillary, later we will see if this is enough, if I need more heat load, I just cut by 1' until I find the correct lenght,
first of all, this is the hold down I will be using, made of plexiglass, I have try this size and it holds good, but if you find a piece thicker would be even better,
about insulation, I will be using pipe insulation found in most hardware stores, and some flat neopre, which I found here
this is a great store, for just about anything, mcmaster
and to make things cute, I ordered some color tape and sleeves from wirecare
and remember that I'm using r-22, so to help it I will add some propane, r-290 to the mix
and about testing for pressure and to do vacumn in the system I used and old compressor and wire it up and put two valves, one on the high side for pressure testing of parts, and one on the low side for vacumn the system,
the best way to do a vacumn is to do it three times,
1. vacumn the system
2. add some refrerent and vacumn the it
3. add some more refrerent and vacumn
the longer the vacumn the better, and when adding some refrerent just slighly above atmosphere,
and finally remember I used 10' of .028ID capillary, later we will see if this is enough, if I need more heat load, I just cut by 1' until I find the correct lenght,
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2002
- Thread Starter
- #30
I will be doing the cooling on an asus a7n8x and the cpu I will choose is the barton 2500+,
way back I try to do it with an amd but the expose core got crack on me, so now I will try with a little advice, so the cpu will now be protected using stands of epoxy, and now we will see if it will help out
and also don't forget epoxy, can be used in any type of core which happends to be sensitive to corner crack, I'm using it on a p4, northy and later will try it on the core of the p4
so here it goes the pic
way back I try to do it with an amd but the expose core got crack on me, so now I will try with a little advice
, so the cpu will now be protected using stands of epoxy, and now we will see if it will help out and also don't forget epoxy, can be used in any type of core which happends to be sensitive to corner crack, I'm using it on a p4, northy and later will try it on the core of the p4
so here it goes the pic
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2002
- Location
- Coventry Rhode Island
whairs the epoxy going
OP
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2002
- Thread Starter
- #32
lclark2074 said:
hi there,
well do you mean "where is the epoxy going"
I use it to make like shim effect, on the last pic I show the cpu with the stands made of epoxy, you have to look real close, but any way I'm at school, but when I get home a will posted a link that shows very close pics very acurate
well now lets talk about general things that involves in the final steps, such as filling the system and the things that go with it!
about temperature controllers, check this out,
this shows that cheap temperature are not acurate, and will post a problem when fine tuning the system!
for example, in order to make sure there is no liquid returning back to the compressor, when take the temperature of the evaporator and measure the suction line a few inches from the compressor and if the difference in F, is 20 degrees or higher there won't be any liquid returning to the compressor, this is called SUPERHEAT.
guages, is good to have them for testing the evaporator, seen the pressures, but good phase change gurus, like bowman, advice that were shouldn't rely on pressures, cause they change depending on room temperature,
so you can actually fill a system without the need of guages, just get a charging hose and fill it with it, ONLY THROUGH THE LOW SIDE
but a good set can be have on ebay for reall cheap, that also goes for the temperature controllers, I got three of these babies, for 20, 30, 40, because of bidding, now you go to radio shack or homedepot and you will be paying around 10-20 dollars for them
and I was surprice that these controllers go for close to 300 dollars at omega.com.
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2002
- Thread Starter
- #33
well found the link, this guide is for doing the whole thing, which I will do soon to my lovely p4 link
I really recomend this to any one that has a amd chip or p4 without the heat spreader, using whatever cooling they are using, I even try an old chip, and I try to crack the core and it was impossible, no matter the pressure used, and tested the epoxy and it was non-conductive you you can use anywhere on the chip, I have to try did cause my block was 1.5", and I couldn't put them where the original pads were located, so they are touching the bridges
link I really recomend this to any one that has a amd chip or p4 without the heat spreader, using whatever cooling they are using, I even try an old chip, and I try to crack the core and it was impossible, no matter the pressure used, and tested the epoxy and it was non-conductive
you you can use anywhere on the chip, I have to try did cause my block was 1.5", and I couldn't put them where the original pads were located, so they are touching the bridges
Last edited:
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2003
- Location
- E600000 - E60000FF
that system rox man.. good job keep it coming.
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2003
- Location
- Tomball, Tx.
Wow, you have inspired me once again! When are you going to be posting the final amount spent on each part and do you have any problems with the compressor being located at its current location, does it get enough air flow, etc? Two phase change systems completey enclosed within the case, YOU THE MAN
OP
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2002
- Thread Starter
- #39
ok here is the list of parts, I will remove the optional parts like a sight glass, and acumulator, since they are not needed and thus are optional
2 1/4 flare nuts, each $.50 cents
1 capillary 10' of .028ID, $5
2 3/8 flare nuts, each $.50
1 compressor 1/5 with its original electrical parts, used $25
1 filtor/drier 1/4 $8
some 1/4ID tubing, $8
some 3/8ID tubing, $10
2 3/8" male-to-braze, each, $1.50
2 valves, pack of 5, $6
1 condenser, home made fron a bigger one, Free
1 120v, 120mm fan, had it around, Free
2 1/4 tube union, $.25 each
1 evaporator, 1-1.5"X1.5", .5width, and
2-1.5"x1.5", width .25 $11 + shipping
1 computer case, had it laying around
1 switch buttom to turn on compressor + 120v fan, $3
10 brazing rods, 15% silver, $10
1 gas connector, $9
1 pipe cover, $1.50
1 neoprene sheet, $10 + shipping
1 piece of plexi-glass, found it, Free
1 roll of epoxy, $5
1 black tape, $3
1 bottle of propane, $3
1 torch tip, $10
so total around, 131.5 +some shipping ($20), so really close to $150, then you must have the other tools like torch, flux(not really needed if you know how to braze-for copper to copper), tube cutter, sandpaper, guages, or just one charging hose, flare tool, tighning tools, metal cutter, thermo probe, drill gun, drill tips, and some others, which GUYS should have any way...
but if you take your time and find parts free, a system can be put together with way less than $150, I have seen guys put together cascade, which are two compressors, with less than $100, I think it was Dabit...
and before I forget, I did set her up and is running in the -40c, and -35c load with 12.5*177=2212, stock and it just doesn't want to go higher no matter the voltage up to 2.2v, so a bad chip is bad one no matter how you paint it, and to do a test I put her up on air and it wouldn't do 1900lol, so phase change help her get to a little farther
but that doesn't bother me cause it will be used for really old games and emulation(nes, snes,ect), that a p2 wouldn't have too much problems with, so I will probably set her stock
well will post some more pics soon
and on the capillary, it will stay the same, cause there won't be much heat load to move anyway, so the full roll is doing just fine...
2 1/4 flare nuts, each $.50 cents
1 capillary 10' of .028ID, $5
2 3/8 flare nuts, each $.50
1 compressor 1/5 with its original electrical parts, used $25
1 filtor/drier 1/4 $8
some 1/4ID tubing, $8
some 3/8ID tubing, $10
2 3/8" male-to-braze, each, $1.50
2 valves, pack of 5, $6
1 condenser, home made fron a bigger one, Free
1 120v, 120mm fan, had it around, Free
2 1/4 tube union, $.25 each
1 evaporator, 1-1.5"X1.5", .5width, and
2-1.5"x1.5", width .25 $11 + shipping
1 computer case, had it laying around
1 switch buttom to turn on compressor + 120v fan, $3
10 brazing rods, 15% silver, $10
1 gas connector, $9
1 pipe cover, $1.50
1 neoprene sheet, $10 + shipping
1 piece of plexi-glass, found it, Free
1 roll of epoxy, $5
1 black tape, $3
1 bottle of propane, $3
1 torch tip, $10
so total around, 131.5 +some shipping ($20), so really close to $150, then you must have the other tools like torch, flux(not really needed if you know how to braze-for copper to copper), tube cutter, sandpaper, guages, or just one charging hose, flare tool, tighning tools, metal cutter, thermo probe, drill gun, drill tips, and some others, which GUYS should have any way...
but if you take your time and find parts free, a system can be put together with way less than $150, I have seen guys put together cascade, which are two compressors, with less than $100
, I think it was Dabit...and before I forget, I did set her up and is running in the -40c, and -35c load with 12.5*177=2212, stock and it just doesn't want to go higher
no matter the voltage up to 2.2v, so a bad chip is bad one no matter how you paint it, and to do a test I put her up on air and it wouldn't do 1900lol, so phase change help her get to a little fartherbut that doesn't bother me cause it will be used for really old games and emulation(nes, snes,ect), that a p2 wouldn't have too much problems with, so I will probably set her stock
well will post some more pics soon
and on the capillary, it will stay the same, cause there won't be much heat load to move anyway, so the full roll is doing just fine...
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2001
- Location
- Dairyland
nunez1980 said:well found the link, this guide is for doing the whole thing, which I will do soon to my lovely p4
I really recomend this to any one that has a amd chip or p4 without the heat spreader, using whatever cooling they are using, I even try an old chip, and I try to crack the core and it was impossible, no matter the pressure used, and tested the epoxy and it was non-conductive
Nunze your system looks awesome, nice and clean. Can you help us out on the link again it seems to be broken. You've inspired me to but one of these inside the case or make a seperate stand alone case nice and tidy.
