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OCing Advice AMD FX-8350 & Asrock 970M Pro3

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CPUTIN = socket temp, which is directly related to VRM temp.

You're not ridiculously hot yet, but 60c is about my limit on VRM. Get a fan on it and one on the backside of the socket.
You're flirting with disaster on that 4+1 phase board. Volts are a little high for the clockspeed. Ram is a little loose for speed also.
On your cooling orientation, AIO should be intaking from the front. Top should be just exhaust fans.
Maximize to control your temps and you'll get a little more life out of that board. The board is the weak link.

I'd like to see CPUz tabs just to see what you got going on. :)

Yo man can you elaborate on what you mean here ? 4+1 phase ? ill get a fan on my VRM also what do you mean by get a fan on the backside of the socket ? i did tinker with front mounted and roof mounted my temps only varied like 1-2c can you recommend me a good Matx AM3+ boards ?

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yeah no thats okay man, i need to learn a few things been overclocking for some time im just unaware of the importance of certain things is all.
 
I don't know what your budget is but NewEgg has 9 990FX and 990X chipset MBs, also Ebay has a goood list as well, now these are all use MB's so buyer beware.
 
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Yo man can you elaborate on what you mean here ? 4+1 phase ? ill get a fan on my VRM also what do you mean by get a fan on the backside of the socket ? i did tinker with front mounted and roof mounted my temps only varied like 1-2c can you recommend me a good Matx AM3+ boards ?

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yeah no thats okay man, i need to learn a few things been overclocking for some time im just unaware of the importance of certain things is all.

I can post pictures of the backside socket fan I installed later today. Is the back panel of your case metal or glass? You need to cut a hole in it to do the mod.

Edit: Here's a link to another thread with my extra fans.
 
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I'm simplifying this, but 4+1 refers to the number of components comprising the VRM. More is better! 8+2 is better than 4+1 since there are more components sharing the load. Higher end motherboards have more robust VRM sections since there are more components to share the load than found on less expensive boards.
 
Hey guys here are the mods i made and my testing results. Please let me know your thoughts or concerns with this ! :)









image0.jpg Socketback.png TestRev1.png Testrev2.png
 

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That's what we were talking about. Good job! Is that core frequency 4.75 ghz? So small I have a hard time reading it, even when opened in a separate tab.

Your package/core and socket temps are about maxed out. If it's stable I wouldn't add any more vcore.
 
That's what we were talking about. Good job! Is that core frequency 4.75 ghz? So small I have a hard time reading it, even when opened in a separate tab.

Your package/core and socket temps are about maxed out. If it's stable I wouldn't add any more vcore.

Thank you trents ! took some hours to work on it ! but finally got there. the Core frequency is at 4.725 Ghz with a Vcore of 1.485 with a +50Mv offset, sorry my picture skills are bad lol, i will try fix it ! but yeah this is about maxed out.... .Still not sure about CPUTIN temps and its tolerance limits as it can reach 75c when stress testing and i idle at like 29-35c
 
Nice.
That's about as good as you'll get on your hardware. You'll never get better on the VRM temp because it's only a 4 phase board.
Enjoy your rig. :)
 
8+1 and 4+1 are just examples. I wouldn't worry about trying to get a new board for this chip anyway, rather you could save up a rather modest amount for an upgrade to an entry level Ryzen system.
 
4 or 8 (the power phase components dedicated to the CPU) + 1 or 2 (the power phases devoted to the RAM).

There probably are mATX motherboards with more than 4 power phases devoted to the CPU, or historically there have been. I know there are even some mini ITX motherboards with 6 power phases devoted to the CPU. I can tell you that higher power phases are typically found on gamer/enthusiast level motherboards. Most of those are in the ATX form factor and some are found in the mini ITX sector. Fewer are found in the mATX sector because mATX boards are mainly budget level boards whose market niche is for general computing rather than gaming or creative work.

There is also an electronic technique called "doubling" that manufacturers use to inflate the power phase count and make the boards seem more robust than than they actually are. I wouldn't call it dishonest because doubling can actually produce a more robust power phase component but not twice as robust. So a motherboard advertised as 16+2 power phase is really 8 phase with doublers. And the power phase number doesn't tell the whole story even in the absence of doublers since the quality of the components used in the power phase module can make a big difference as well.

I realize this is probably a little over your head right now but just something to be aware of as you will run into it sooner or later.
 
Hello guys, another question see if anyone can help me with. I turned on my pc today and it gave me a failed to boot message and booted with default values, I tired to go back to bios and reapply my OC but it just fails to boot a reverts do default again I tired lower values and I get the same result I’m not quite sure how to tackle this all my usual options yield no results I.E clearing CMOS, lower clock values ect I’ve checked my mobo for any kind of burn out and everything looks normal checked CPU appears fine as it boots with default values fine.... I’m stumped never encountered this issue.
 
PSU failing? Overclocking will draw more watts and put more strain on the PSU.

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Merlin's Beard, please create a Signature listing your system components. The signature travels with every post you make and gives those helping you an overview of your system components. For instance, just now I wondered how much power your video card drawing. But that information is not present unless maybe I go all the way back to the beginning of this thread and maybe have to comb through the posts to find that info.

To create a signature, go to top of the page and click on Settings. Then scroll down the left side until you see "Edit Signature".
 
Hmmmm could check that one out shouldn’t be the PSU is like a few months old, its a Gigabyte P650B 650w 80plus bronze for gtx 1060 strix, 9 fans plus mobo and oc ? :/
 
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How is this ? :) also i think i found my issue. i had my backside fan 4 pin corsair SP120 (I changed the fan from picture) plugged in to a slot on my MOBO labelled PWR FAN1, Very strange i only know its that because when i plug it in it boots fine with the OC applied when i plug it back in POOF failed boot stock clock setting :S.

Also i slightly modded the top of my case to raise the glass panel enough with stand off posts and bolts (although im missing two bolts) to allow for better exhaust air flow and a push pull config while retaining some degree of aesthetics

Pushpull.jpg
 
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How is this ? :) also i think i found my issue. i had my backside fan 4 pin corsair SP120 (I changed the fan from picture) plugged in to a slot on my MOBO labelled PWR FAN1, Very strange i only know its that because when i plug it in it boots fine with the OC applied when i plug it back in POOF failed boot stock clock setting :S.

Also i slightly modded the top of my case to raise the glass panel enough with stand off posts and bolts (although im missing two bolts) to allow for better exhaust air flow and a push pull config while retaining some degree of aesthetics

View attachment 210258

Say what? I couldn't follow that.
 
My apologies i was abit over excited when i found out the issue. there was an issue with a fan slot i used on my MOBO it was labelled PWN FAN was a 3 pin and i plugged in a 4 pin SP120 fan im using to cool my back socket, not sure what the problem was but it caused my pc to fail boot with OC setting applied for some reason :S
 
That is strange, but glad you got it figured out. Typically the CPU power does not come from the same power connectors as things like fans, but it seems maybe one way or another the SP120 might be too powerful for that header.

Moving the glass will definitely help your temps, not sure if the second set of fans will make as much of a difference as just adding airflow.
 
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