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Ok, One More Time for Good Measure

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Ious

Registered
Joined
Oct 29, 2011
Location
California
Hi. I'm new to this forum and I am VERY new into computers. I just recently had an interest in them. I play PC games and I use Photoshop extensively, so I thought that building a PC that was perfect for my needs was a great decision.

I have never put together a PC before, and after a week or two of research, I learned how computer parts together and what parts I wanted. I got all of my parts together, but the total was just a little too much for my budget. I wanted a total of $800 or less, but it didn't turn out that way... And I also want a build that can run BF3 with at least medium settings (high would be very nice)

I hope I learn a lot from this forum and I hope to be able to contribute as much I can.

If there is anything batter than the part I am thinking about using, or any general tips, then please post them below. Also, I have a few questions, so please answer them as best as you can. THANK YOU!

Here's my build:

1) ASUS M4A87TD EVO AM3 AMD 870 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard $103
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131647\
I don't know if this is the best MOBO for my system, but if there is a better one, then let me know. I am willing to spend up to $130.

2) AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition Deneb 3.2GHz 4 x 512KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor $120
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103808
I really want the X6 1055T, but I don't know if there are any main differences.

3) EVGA 01G-P3-1556-KR GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Fermi) FPB 1GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 $140
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130625
I heard that this was the best version of this video card, I'm not sure though...

4) CORSAIR Vengeance 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) $50
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233164
I wasn't sure whether to get DDR3 2000 or 1600. If there's no difference, then Ill get 1600. I heard that the 2000 has better overclocking...

5) Western Digital Caviar Blue WD3200AAKX 320GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive $75
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136770
I don't want a high capacity, but this HD only has 16MB cache. If there is a better one let me know.

6) OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W Modular High Performance Power Supply $75
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341017
I'm not sure if this is the best power supply, or even if I need this much power...

7) ASUS 24X DVD Burner - Bulk 24X $20
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204
This is the best one on NewEgg. As far as I know...

8) TRITTON AX 120 Performance Gaming Headset for Xbox 360 $60
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16874704005
Compatible with both Xbox and PC, so no changing this.

9) RAZER Arctosa Black 104 Normal Keys USB Wired Standard Gaming Keyboard $40
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823114009
This is for budget. If I lower the total, I'll switch to the Sidewinder X4: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823109191

10) RAZER DeathAdder Precision Optical Gaming Mouse - 3.5G Infrared Sensor $50
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826153055
No changing my mind, I want this baby.

11) Rosewill DESTROYER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case $50
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147144
I want a case that's under $50, but if theres is a really awesome case within $100, I'll look into it.
Personally, I like the aesthetics of this case. I heard the CHALLENGER is a better case though...

12) Kensington 56001 Optics-Enhancing Mouse Pad - Black $5
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826999006
If I'm able to lower the total, then please suggest an okay gaming pad. Nothing too crazy, maybe under $20 will do.
 
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THere would be a few things I would change;

3/ This GPU is probably going to be a bit lightweight. look for a ATI HD6850/6870 or a nvidia GTX560. You wont regret the investment.

5/ That drive is probably too small and is quite slow. Get a 1tb Samsung F3 Spinpoint.

6/ Look for a Seasonic/Silverstone or corsair 500-600w PSU. Better quality than the OCZ.
 
The gpu can be changed to what hartnell suggested with ~$20-30 more and will net much greater performance.

With all the recent increases in HDD prices I cant really speak to pricing on them since they are all over the place.

Also the 600w OCZ psu is a great psu, I have used it in 2 builds to date and have had no issues.
 
I have no idea if I need 600W though. I've seen posts with similar specs like mine say that 500w or 550w is is enough.

I'll upgrade the GPU.

I do want a faster drive, but as of late, it's gone up and I can't afford to go over $900. I want to be under $800 (which I now kinda realized is kinda impossible)

I still need to know if there is any major difference between and X4 and an X6. And if there is any difference with 2000 and 1600 RAM.
 
With the RAM, not really. the X4 is a quad core, the X6 is a hexacore. Doubt you can afford the X6 with that budget, your best bet is getting a 955BE now with a new AM3+ motherboard and throwing in a Bulldozer CPU in a year or so.\

Under $800? Very possible :). I highly recommend finding some other place to buy a hard drive from. Right now, there was huge flood in Thailand, and there's an extreme shortage, over 100% price increases in the past few weeks. If you can get one used, it'll be a LOT cheaper.

The promo code (it's with the case) expires tomorrow.

Capture.JPG
1.JPG
 
^^^
A 2500K would certainly last you longer, however decent Intel-chipset boards are also more expensive than comparable AMD-based boards (I built a PC for my uncle recently and spent about $50 more than I needed to as I'm used to Intel :/ ). Don't swing an FX chip just yet, as you can always drop one of them in later if you get an AM3+ board.

E: typo
 
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Indeed, if Op can extend his budget by $100 the 2500k will be MUCH better. However I am not sure how strict the budget is.

Also as grumper said intel boards are usually more expensive as well(unless you get a combo deal).
 
Agreed. Thats why in this build, having the AM3+ board was imperative, so he wouldnt be stuck with an old platform, but the $150 extra for a 2500K would go a long way for future proofing.

If he doesnt have the budget, its okay, he said he only wants to run at medium, not at ultra.
 
...4GB of slow RAM and a 120gb blue HDD? meh to that mouse snd keyboard too. plus that CD drive wont even connect to that motherboard...

EDIT: And oh god, a Raidmax PSU...


I guess technically.downgrading everything to fit the best CPU and GPU possible gets you the best performance, but most people would take the less.performance for quality everything.
 
I reiterate my previous post, plus the point that I wouldnt trust that PSU to actually put out anywhere above 450W. If good reviews mean some tiny website that go the unit for free, tested the output voltage with a Radioshack multimeter, and passed it, then I don't know what a hood review is. Id like to see the pretty fireworks it'd make in OKWolf's hotbox trying to pull 630W out of it.

There's a difference between buying the crazy overpriced stuff and a cheap, low quality keyboard. I dont see the point of having to play at max settings, 60FPS on a tiny monitor, cheap plastic keyboard, and some stock Apple earphones. If you want to spend your money to get every last bit of performance out, then by all means go join tje benching team. However, most people want the best gaming experience possible, and quality periphals are every bit as important as the rig itself.
 
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THere would be a few things I would change;

3/ This GPU is probably going to be a bit lightweight. look for a ATI HD6850/6870 or a nvidia GTX560. You wont regret the investment.

CUDA is required to really make photoshop fly so it has to be a 560. I'd get a 560Ti since they've come down in $ now.

5/ That drive is probably too small and is quite slow. Get a 1tb Samsung F3 Spinpoint.

6/ Look for a Seasonic/Silverstone or corsair 500-600w PSU. Better quality than the OCZ.


Agreed!
 
Still doesnt address the small/slow HDD, slow RAM, cheap case.

Plus, what is "fine" supposed to mean? I have a $3 keyboard from Mirocenter that work and works well. It's fine, but theres no comparison between that and typing on my $70 logitech. If that keyboard is fine why do so many gamers.splurge on mechanical keyboards? Because, simply put, buying the cheapest stuff will get you.crap quality, and the extra cost is worth it. You can always be like "z0mg i can max out BF3 nubs", but would you rather play 60FPS on the keyboard and mouse you chose or 40FPS on the keyboard and mouse I chose? The point is getting the best experience possible. Not getting the best performance.

I dont see how getting a 2500K and a 6950 is worth on cheaping out everything else. And note how the price starts going up and up past budget once you start changing out for quality parts. Plus shipping.

For a 2500K and a 6950, youd want at LEAST $1000 for just the tower, not counting mice/keyboard/etc.
 
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I see an Apevia power supply in that list.
No one should ever use an Apevia power supply.

I notice you added another PSU, however your link is broken, so I'm not going to apologize. Look up "Aspire" power supplies on google. It's the same company with a new name. They are unrepentantly terrible.


The mouse is (surprisingly) OK, as I've come to really like mine in the past couple months, but that RAM is sub-par. I would personally hate using that keyboard, but I use a ridiculous MS 4000 (due to my wrists aching all day from using a compact keyboard at work -> seriously love coming home to play/work on it instead), and keyboards are highly subjective.


The hard drive being small and slow is pretty much unavoidable given the flooding in Thailand. Best bet is to grab something like that now (or a 120GB SSD) and clone later if you don't have classifieds access. I bought a ton of 1TB drives recently, but I would not buy one for the prices they're going for right now.


What the OP needs is a reasonably fast Athlon II or Phenom II quad, a half-decent AM3+ board, a decent 500-600W PSU from a non-awful company, a reasonable GPU (560/560ti), and some basic G-Skill or Patriot RAM. HDD or SDD to suit, and add another or so when prices drop. His original list wasn't ideal (better GPU, AM3+ board, different PSU, non-Vengeance RAM), but it has all the basics down.
 
Dam, Knufire gets rep for this one.
Ok, so I'll basically copy your build there. I forgot about combos, but so many combos don't have what I want, so I didn't check them.
Is it possible to have a good PSU and 8GB of 1600 RAM? because 8GB of 1600 and 4GB of 2000 are the same price, so why not settle for 8GB...
And after all of this, I'll see if I can get a X6.

THANKS to everyone who posted. Knufire gets MVP though.

EDIT: I found a combo with the same MOBO Knufire suggested but with 8GB of 1600 RAM Corsair Vengeance for $137.
I still need suggestions on what PSU to get.

ANOTHER EDIT: Scratch the idea above, I found something better...
 
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Skip the 2000mhz RAM. Performance benefit isn't worth dropping down from 8GB. The only issue with Corsair Vengeance RAM is the tall heatspreaders. Headspreaders are arguably unnecessary with 1.5V RAM, but massive ones like that can block CPU heatsinks so it's better just to avoid them if possible (and you won't be able to remove them: they're glued on).
 
Also, I still have no idea how much power I need.

I'm stuck between these 3 combos.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.740023

Corsair's "Builder" series has less than ideal parts and the 12V rating is pretty low. You would need a 600W Builder unit to match a good-quality 500W unit due to the low 12V rail. Skip it.


Same as above. Pass.


Good power supply. The heatspreaders on the RAM can block CPU heatsinks.
It's OK if you're using an aftermarket heatsink that won't be blocked, or if you can drop the RAM in alternate slots (instead of 1/x/2/x, x/1/x/2). This would work fine, although it could be an issue if you want 16GB later on.

Alternatively you can buy the PSU separately, and grab some G-Skill (or Patriot, or Muskin) RAM. The PSU has a rebate so the price will end up about the same as the combo:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139020
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428
 
Corsair's "Builder" series has less than ideal parts and the 12V rating is pretty low. You would need a 600W Builder unit to match a good-quality 500W unit due to the low 12V rail. Skip it.

Really? I've never heard that, granted it's not the top of the line quality like the Superflower 550w units, but it's not designed to be. It's supposed to be a "very good" budget PSU, something that'll put out it's rated wattage with relatively low ripple at normal temps, not something that's going to be dropping jaws. Everyone wants an AX/X-Gold/Superflower Platinum unit, but not everyone can afford one.

The TX650 is undoubtedly better quality, but the difference is that I'd get a 600CX for someone planning to run a single card, whereas I'd get the TX650 for someone who got a single midrange (560/6850) now and wanted to go dual in the future.

The 430CX got a great performance score from Jonnyguru (http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&file=print&reid=239), and I've consistently heard that the 600CX will easily run any single GPU card, including a 580, as long as there isn't a monster OC. Plus with the frequent promo codes, rebates, and combo deals, it's usually what I recommend for budget builds. It ends up to be cheaper then the alternatives.

The 500CX would be pushing it, the 600CX/650TX is slightly overkill but better more then less. It should be pulling around 500W, maybe a bit more.
 
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