i have a P4T-E and i looke @ it it looks same as P4T533 and i am thinking is there a P4T533 hack bios for P4T-E? i have a P4-1.8A @ 2.4 (133) and that is the bios max, and when i pust in a 2.0A it won't run @ 133 FSB but it will run @ 133FSB on my DDR machine, is threr any hack bios for this mobo???
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P4t-e
- Thread starter allenpan
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2005
I don't know the answer from the head, but why don't you
just try it out yourself? You can still download the latest
version(s) of the BIOS for this board from the Asus
Internet site:
http://support.asus.com/download/download.aspx
Go and take a look, I'd say. And if you won't succeed on
going beyond 133 with that BIOS, then there's still ways
to get it on higher than 133 by doing it manually. This can
be done by adjusting the jumper settings on the board
itsself. Maybe you'd like to take a good look for that (and
other related matter), at:
www.cifi.com/computing/p4teoverclock.html
It's also possible by the way, it seems to me, to get a
higher FSB by doing the turbo-PLL OC trick. Start a search
here on the forum or on Google, with the term "turbo-pll"
and you'll see what that trick is. From what I understand
it's actually a very nice trick, because you can increase
your FSB without increasing the PCI and AGP speed at the
same time. So in that way your cards, harddisk(s) and so
on won't protest or won't be destroyed and so on. But if
you want to give that trick a try, then I'd say be sure that
you have or will get the right knowledge, experience and
skills before trying it. And if not, then you better try and
find some very nice person (here on the Forum?) who
knows how you should do it and is willing to instruct you
on it. On your own risk that would be then, I suppose.
:-D I hope that you'll manage to achieve what you want,
am looking forwards to your replies and wish you success.
just try it out yourself? You can still download the latest
version(s) of the BIOS for this board from the Asus
Internet site:
http://support.asus.com/download/download.aspx
Go and take a look, I'd say. And if you won't succeed on
going beyond 133 with that BIOS, then there's still ways
to get it on higher than 133 by doing it manually. This can
be done by adjusting the jumper settings on the board
itsself. Maybe you'd like to take a good look for that (and
other related matter), at:
www.cifi.com/computing/p4teoverclock.html
It's also possible by the way, it seems to me, to get a
higher FSB by doing the turbo-PLL OC trick. Start a search
here on the forum or on Google, with the term "turbo-pll"
and you'll see what that trick is. From what I understand
it's actually a very nice trick, because you can increase
your FSB without increasing the PCI and AGP speed at the
same time. So in that way your cards, harddisk(s) and so
on won't protest or won't be destroyed and so on. But if
you want to give that trick a try, then I'd say be sure that
you have or will get the right knowledge, experience and
skills before trying it. And if not, then you better try and
find some very nice person (here on the Forum?) who
knows how you should do it and is willing to instruct you
on it. On your own risk that would be then, I suppose.
:-D I hope that you'll manage to achieve what you want,
am looking forwards to your replies and wish you success.
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2005
Half a year ago or something, I've read about a certain so
called wire-trick to achive that higher Voltage on an
overclocked P4T-E. It was an extended instruction manual
that described very clearly, including nice and clear
photos, how to do that. It's basically done by taking off
the CPU from the board and then connecting certain pins
with each others. In that way you achieve a Voltage of
1.85V manually. Maybe even higher, but I'm not sure
about that. Thing is though, that it IS possible. Do a
search on the specific wire-trick, I would say. It's 100%
certain out there somewhere, I just don't know where. I'll
try and look it up also. I have two P4T-E boards and
would like to try and experiment with them myself too.
called wire-trick to achive that higher Voltage on an
overclocked P4T-E. It was an extended instruction manual
that described very clearly, including nice and clear
photos, how to do that. It's basically done by taking off
the CPU from the board and then connecting certain pins
with each others. In that way you achieve a Voltage of
1.85V manually. Maybe even higher, but I'm not sure
about that. Thing is though, that it IS possible. Do a
search on the specific wire-trick, I would say. It's 100%
certain out there somewhere, I just don't know where. I'll
try and look it up also. I have two P4T-E boards and
would like to try and experiment with them myself too.
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2005
Allenpan, I think you might very much wanna take a look
at this:
http://www.hexus.net/content/reviews/review.php?dXJsX3Jldmlld19JRD0yNzgmdXJsX2hpc3Rvcnk9LTI=
You can find that wire trick there. That's a method that
you can use to unlock your CPU's maximum Voltage and
set it to any desired Voltage between 1.7V and 1.85V. In
this way you don't need to use the (greyed out) BIOS
settings anymore, when you are using the jumper mode.
I wonder what you think about it.
I will also keep on looking for information on how to do a
so called turbo PLL OC trick, a trick to overclock the board
enormously WITOUT that the PCI, AGP and IDE settings
will by too high. Only information that I found until now
was written in Japanese. I will ask a Japanese friend of
mine to translate it into English, soon. But I do have to
add here, that the PLL OC tricks are prolly only for the
more advanced OC-ers, that are not affraid to grab a
soldering iron and Dremel, to seriously modify a board.
Let me know please, if this was what you've been looking
for. And what your results will be. Success!
at this:
http://www.hexus.net/content/reviews/review.php?dXJsX3Jldmlld19JRD0yNzgmdXJsX2hpc3Rvcnk9LTI=
You can find that wire trick there. That's a method that
you can use to unlock your CPU's maximum Voltage and
set it to any desired Voltage between 1.7V and 1.85V. In
this way you don't need to use the (greyed out) BIOS
settings anymore, when you are using the jumper mode.
I wonder what you think about it.
I will also keep on looking for information on how to do a
so called turbo PLL OC trick, a trick to overclock the board
enormously WITOUT that the PCI, AGP and IDE settings
will by too high. Only information that I found until now
was written in Japanese. I will ask a Japanese friend of
mine to translate it into English, soon. But I do have to
add here, that the PLL OC tricks are prolly only for the
more advanced OC-ers, that are not affraid to grab a
soldering iron and Dremel, to seriously modify a board.
Let me know please, if this was what you've been looking
for. And what your results will be. Success!
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2005
Maybe you'll find this interesting too:
http://www.overclockers.com/tips745/index.asp
and
http://www.overclockers.com/tips745/index02.asp
...about that turbo PLL tricks... IN ENGLISH! Hehehe.
http://www.overclockers.com/tips745/index.asp
and
http://www.overclockers.com/tips745/index02.asp
...about that turbo PLL tricks... IN ENGLISH! Hehehe.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2005
Additional to modifying the CPU only, you can also mod your
mobo itsself. I found the following page, but it's in German.
If you can speak German, like I can, then that shouldn't be a
problem. If not, then tell me so and I might find time to
translate it for you.
http://www.teccentral.de/artikel/artikel_165_0-Vcore-mod-Asus-P4T-E.html
mobo itsself. I found the following page, but it's in German.
If you can speak German, like I can, then that shouldn't be a
problem. If not, then tell me so and I might find time to
translate it for you.
http://www.teccentral.de/artikel/artikel_165_0-Vcore-mod-Asus-P4T-E.html
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2005
It's not very clear to me either, this German article.
Despite that I understand German well enough. But how I
read it, is that the max voltage that you can get with this
board is 2.1 Volt and that you can get that by using a
50 kOhms turning potentiometer, not a 50 Ohms
resistance. Oh, and mind the k before Ohm: we're not
talking about Ohms here, we're talking about 50 kOhms
= 50 kiloOhms.
I personally doubt that there isn't another maybe more
sophisticated way of modding the board to get even
higher voltage on this board. Maybe you can find one
somewhere by doing a search on Google, or by asking for
help at a person that already has experience with
overclocking a P4T-E.
By the way, I don't know your skills and knowledge, but
are you aware of the fact that 2.1 Volt already is a pretty
high value? And that you need to use more intensive
cooling then the standard heatsink and cooling fan?
Cooling methods like using a big heatpipe heatsink with a
large fan or maybe even water and/or peltier cooling?
Now about your question if you should desolder the "old
resistor", the SMD resistor. It's being mentioned expressly
in the article, that you should NOT remove the original
SMD resistance but leave it between the solder tacks of
the 50 kOhms turning potentiometer. So you have to
solder it OVER the SMD and NOT replace it.
Ok, here I go... The translation of the German instructions,
also for the other people that read this and are interested:
---------------------------------------------------------------
"Vcore mod. Asus P4T-E - Teil 1"
=
Vcore mod. Asus P4T-E - Part 1
(first picture)
"Auch das Asus P4T-E lässt sich seitens der Vcore noch
tunen, allerdings ist hier nur eine Steigerung auf bis
max. 2,1 Volt möglich. Dies halte ich aber auch für einen
guten Wert, weil man die Spannung nicht höher setzen
sollte. Dennoch ist auch hier eine gute Kühlung zwingend
erforderlich bzw. bei Pentium 4 Systemen wäre eine
Wasserkühlung schon zu empfehlen. Die Modifikation
geschieht auf eigene Verantwortung und auch die
Garantie erlischt mit dieser !!"
=
Also the Asus P4T-E still lets itsself being tuned through
the Vcore, however only an increasment up untill max. 2.1
Volt is possible. This I also regard as a good value though,
because one shouldn't set the tension higher.
Nevertheless also in this case, good cooling is compellingly
necessary. For example already with Pentium 4 systems,
watercooling was advisable. The modification happens on
your own responsibility and also the warranty expires with
this mod!!
"Die Modifikation"
=
The Modification
"Erst mal sollte man genau die genauen Lötpunkte
eingrenzen, wo der Widerstand einzulöten ist und
sich diese genau einprägen."
=
At first one should accurately check where exactly the
solder tacks are, where the resistor is soldered and
remember this spot.
(second picture)
text underneath second picture:
"Hier muss der Widerstand eingelötet werden
- 50 kOhm Dreh-Poti eingelötet !!"
=
Here is where the resistor should be soldered onto
- 50 kOhm turning potentiometer soldered!!
"Hier müssen die Verbindungspunkte genau stimmen,
weil eine falsche Modifikation das Board zerstören kann.
Der zwischen den Lötpunkten platzierte SMD Widerstand
sollte nicht entfernt werden !!!
Das benötigt ihr :
1. Niedervoltlötkolben ( 6Volt mit feiner Spitze ) mit Netzteil
2. Lötzinn und Fett
3. 50 kOhm Dreh-Poti
4. Lupe
5. gute Beleuchtung
So sollte es dann nach der Modifikation aussehen : "
=
The connection points have to be done exactly, because a
wrong mod can distroy the board. The SMD resistor that's
been placed between the solder tacks should not be
removed!!!
This is what you need:
1. soldering iron ( 6Volt with thin point )
with power supply
2. solder tin and fat
3. 50 kOhm turning potentiometer
4. magnifying glass (if you need it, I don't)
5. good lighting
After the mod, it should look like this:
(third picture)
text underneath third picture:
"So sollte es nach der Modifikation aussehen"
=
After the mod, it should look like this
(fourth picture)
text underneath fourth picture:
"Diese tatsächlich anliegende Vcore ist anschließend im
Hardware-Monitor ablesbar."
=
This actually fitting Vcore is then readable in the
Hardware-Monitor.
"Dank der Modifikation sind jetzt gut 2,1 Volt erreichbar,
wobei hier vorallem das Netzteil eine wichtige Rolle spielt.
Ihr solltet aber bedenken, dass ihr um die maximale
Vcore zu erzielen, auch eure CPU modifizieren müsst,
sofern ihr bereits einen Northwood einsetzt. Mehr dazu
auf der fogenden Seite !"
=
Thanks to the modification, now at least 2.1 Volt is
reachable, at which the power supply here plays an
important role. You should consider though, that to obtain
the maximum Vcore you should also modify the CPU, if
you already use a Northwood.
---------------------------------------------------------------
This was just the translation of the first part of the
German voltmod instructions. I will translate the second
part too soon, but not right now because I don't have
more time at the moment.
Despite that I understand German well enough. But how I
read it, is that the max voltage that you can get with this
board is 2.1 Volt and that you can get that by using a
50 kOhms turning potentiometer, not a 50 Ohms
resistance. Oh, and mind the k before Ohm: we're not
talking about Ohms here, we're talking about 50 kOhms
= 50 kiloOhms.
I personally doubt that there isn't another maybe more
sophisticated way of modding the board to get even
higher voltage on this board. Maybe you can find one
somewhere by doing a search on Google, or by asking for
help at a person that already has experience with
overclocking a P4T-E.
By the way, I don't know your skills and knowledge, but
are you aware of the fact that 2.1 Volt already is a pretty
high value? And that you need to use more intensive
cooling then the standard heatsink and cooling fan?
Cooling methods like using a big heatpipe heatsink with a
large fan or maybe even water and/or peltier cooling?
Now about your question if you should desolder the "old
resistor", the SMD resistor. It's being mentioned expressly
in the article, that you should NOT remove the original
SMD resistance but leave it between the solder tacks of
the 50 kOhms turning potentiometer. So you have to
solder it OVER the SMD and NOT replace it.
Ok, here I go... The translation of the German instructions,
also for the other people that read this and are interested:
---------------------------------------------------------------
"Vcore mod. Asus P4T-E - Teil 1"
=
Vcore mod. Asus P4T-E - Part 1
(first picture)
"Auch das Asus P4T-E lässt sich seitens der Vcore noch
tunen, allerdings ist hier nur eine Steigerung auf bis
max. 2,1 Volt möglich. Dies halte ich aber auch für einen
guten Wert, weil man die Spannung nicht höher setzen
sollte. Dennoch ist auch hier eine gute Kühlung zwingend
erforderlich bzw. bei Pentium 4 Systemen wäre eine
Wasserkühlung schon zu empfehlen. Die Modifikation
geschieht auf eigene Verantwortung und auch die
Garantie erlischt mit dieser !!"
=
Also the Asus P4T-E still lets itsself being tuned through
the Vcore, however only an increasment up untill max. 2.1
Volt is possible. This I also regard as a good value though,
because one shouldn't set the tension higher.
Nevertheless also in this case, good cooling is compellingly
necessary. For example already with Pentium 4 systems,
watercooling was advisable. The modification happens on
your own responsibility and also the warranty expires with
this mod!!
"Die Modifikation"
=
The Modification
"Erst mal sollte man genau die genauen Lötpunkte
eingrenzen, wo der Widerstand einzulöten ist und
sich diese genau einprägen."
=
At first one should accurately check where exactly the
solder tacks are, where the resistor is soldered and
remember this spot.
(second picture)
text underneath second picture:
"Hier muss der Widerstand eingelötet werden
- 50 kOhm Dreh-Poti eingelötet !!"
=
Here is where the resistor should be soldered onto
- 50 kOhm turning potentiometer soldered!!
"Hier müssen die Verbindungspunkte genau stimmen,
weil eine falsche Modifikation das Board zerstören kann.
Der zwischen den Lötpunkten platzierte SMD Widerstand
sollte nicht entfernt werden !!!
Das benötigt ihr :
1. Niedervoltlötkolben ( 6Volt mit feiner Spitze ) mit Netzteil
2. Lötzinn und Fett
3. 50 kOhm Dreh-Poti
4. Lupe
5. gute Beleuchtung
So sollte es dann nach der Modifikation aussehen : "
=
The connection points have to be done exactly, because a
wrong mod can distroy the board. The SMD resistor that's
been placed between the solder tacks should not be
removed!!!
This is what you need:
1. soldering iron ( 6Volt with thin point )
with power supply
2. solder tin and fat
3. 50 kOhm turning potentiometer
4. magnifying glass (if you need it, I don't)
5. good lighting
After the mod, it should look like this:
(third picture)
text underneath third picture:
"So sollte es nach der Modifikation aussehen"
=
After the mod, it should look like this
(fourth picture)
text underneath fourth picture:
"Diese tatsächlich anliegende Vcore ist anschließend im
Hardware-Monitor ablesbar."
=
This actually fitting Vcore is then readable in the
Hardware-Monitor.
"Dank der Modifikation sind jetzt gut 2,1 Volt erreichbar,
wobei hier vorallem das Netzteil eine wichtige Rolle spielt.
Ihr solltet aber bedenken, dass ihr um die maximale
Vcore zu erzielen, auch eure CPU modifizieren müsst,
sofern ihr bereits einen Northwood einsetzt. Mehr dazu
auf der fogenden Seite !"
=
Thanks to the modification, now at least 2.1 Volt is
reachable, at which the power supply here plays an
important role. You should consider though, that to obtain
the maximum Vcore you should also modify the CPU, if
you already use a Northwood.
---------------------------------------------------------------
This was just the translation of the first part of the
German voltmod instructions. I will translate the second
part too soon, but not right now because I don't have
more time at the moment.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2005
You might wanna take a look here too, by the way:
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?p=3820258#post3820258
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?p=3820258#post3820258
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2004
If you want more vcore..i have vmodded an ASUS P4T before. It uses the same vcore regulator IC as the DFI LanParty NF2 and Infinity Ultra NF2, as well as the NF7.
a 50K trimmer set at max between pin 7 of HIP6301CB and ground will give you unlimited vcore, i have tested all the way to 2V. Lower resistance for more voltage. If you would like..take a picture of the area around the socket and ill paint the mod on for you.
-CaT
a 50K trimmer set at max between pin 7 of HIP6301CB and ground will give you unlimited vcore, i have tested all the way to 2V. Lower resistance for more voltage. If you would like..take a picture of the area around the socket and ill paint the mod on for you.
-CaT
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2005
If it is another mod than the one on the German site,
then I'm willing to take that needed picture and send it to
you. Can you please check out the German site,
OCFCaTalyst, and see if it is the same mod as the one
that you did? Thank you in the advance.
then I'm willing to take that needed picture and send it to
you. Can you please check out the German site,
OCFCaTalyst, and see if it is the same mod as the one
that you did? Thank you in the advance.
- Thread Starter
- #13
btw thx for no info in P4T-E
http://www.abxzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13459&page=14
i found the bios for it
no thx for those who not even try to hlep
http://www.abxzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13459&page=14
i found the bios for it
no thx for those who not even try to hlep
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2005
Hi allen. Oh my goodness. I've read the thread over there... And about the trouble
you are having with the board now.
( http://www.abxzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13459&page=16 )
Did you try and flash your P4T-E with an original P4T533-C Bios or with the hacked
hybrid of the P4T-E and P4T533-C Bios? And/or did you mean the hybrid Bios, when
you mentioned the "hyper" Bios? In case if you can't fix the whatever problem
you're exactly dealing with... Just an idea; I can't garantee if it might work, but
maybe if you can find or ask for a broken P4T-E motherboard somewhere on a site like
Ebay, you might be able to replace your board's Bios chip with the one of that broken
board? I checked one of my P4T-E boards and I noticed that it should be possible to
desolder those type of chips from and solder them onto a board, don't you think?
Anyone else here that knows if that might work and fix Allenpan's board?
you are having with the board now.
( http://www.abxzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13459&page=16 )
Did you try and flash your P4T-E with an original P4T533-C Bios or with the hacked
hybrid of the P4T-E and P4T533-C Bios? And/or did you mean the hybrid Bios, when
you mentioned the "hyper" Bios? In case if you can't fix the whatever problem
you're exactly dealing with... Just an idea; I can't garantee if it might work, but
maybe if you can find or ask for a broken P4T-E motherboard somewhere on a site like
Ebay, you might be able to replace your board's Bios chip with the one of that broken
board? I checked one of my P4T-E boards and I noticed that it should be possible to
desolder those type of chips from and solder them onto a board, don't you think?
Anyone else here that knows if that might work and fix Allenpan's board?
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2003
- Location
- I can see walmart, 44906
the bios chip should be socketed, and it is posible to boot from one bios, hot swap them out and flash the damaged / corrupted one, i have had to do this to the bios on my A7N8x DLX rev 1.4 board back in the day.
I am very weary of playing with BIOS of hardware, as if it doesnt flash well it can be a real difficult time to get it working again, where when soldergin and vort modding, you can check everything and ease into it on the pot, so there is more assurance there that everytihng is well, not just relyin on the work of others hacking BIOSes.
I personally would have done the pin mod on the cpu to get more power, as it would be by far the easiest. it can be done with a U shaped wire as well, and inserted ito the holes of the socker and bridging the 2 pins, i wpuld prefer that method to wrappign around the pins on the cpu. i find it easier to undo that wa as well, and im terribly afraid of bending cpu pins.
I am very weary of playing with BIOS of hardware, as if it doesnt flash well it can be a real difficult time to get it working again, where when soldergin and vort modding, you can check everything and ease into it on the pot, so there is more assurance there that everytihng is well, not just relyin on the work of others hacking BIOSes.
I personally would have done the pin mod on the cpu to get more power, as it would be by far the easiest. it can be done with a U shaped wire as well, and inserted ito the holes of the socker and bridging the 2 pins, i wpuld prefer that method to wrappign around the pins on the cpu. i find it easier to undo that wa as well, and im terribly afraid of bending cpu pins.
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2005
four4875, I can of course not speak for Allenpan, but I myself would like to thank you
for this reply.
You wrote "the bios chip should be socketed, and it is possible to boot from
one bios, hot swap them out and flash the damaged / corrupted one, i have had to
do this to the bios on my A7N8x DLX rev 1.4 board back in the day."
Is this what you mean:
1-desoldering the corrupted BIOS chip off from the motherboard
2-soldering a socket onto the board in which BIOS chips can be plugged
3-plugging a working (non-corrupted) BIOS chip into the socket
4-booting the PC with that working BIOS chip
5-once the PC is running, taking the working BIOS chip off and replacing it with the
__corrupted one
6-flashing that corrupted BIOS chip with a working BIOS (software)
?
Allenpan, if this is what four4875 means, then either you or me might want to post
that on the thread at abxzone, where you found that hacked P4T533-C BIOS, right?
There might be more people over there that would like to know this method(s) and
keep it as an extra safety layer when experimenting with the hacked BIOSses.
for this reply.
You wrote "the bios chip should be socketed, and it is possible to boot from
one bios, hot swap them out and flash the damaged / corrupted one, i have had to
do this to the bios on my A7N8x DLX rev 1.4 board back in the day."
Is this what you mean:
1-desoldering the corrupted BIOS chip off from the motherboard
2-soldering a socket onto the board in which BIOS chips can be plugged
3-plugging a working (non-corrupted) BIOS chip into the socket
4-booting the PC with that working BIOS chip
5-once the PC is running, taking the working BIOS chip off and replacing it with the
__corrupted one
6-flashing that corrupted BIOS chip with a working BIOS (software)
?
Allenpan, if this is what four4875 means, then either you or me might want to post
that on the thread at abxzone, where you found that hacked P4T533-C BIOS, right?
There might be more people over there that would like to know this method(s) and
keep it as an extra safety layer when experimenting with the hacked BIOSses.
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2003
- Location
- I can see walmart, 44906
http://www.phj.at/p4te.jpg
number 13 in the pic. the BIOS is already in the socket, do need to do any soldering at all, just use a chip puller and you're set. or if it holds, you ould glue a case screw or similar to the chip to act as a handle to pull it out nice and straight.
i jsut checked other pics i found, it looks liek some arent socketed, so it would require desoldering and then soldering of a socket, which might be a bit of a pain in the arse at first but would likely pay off in the end.
but yeah, thats the process.
since you're going all out anyways, you might want to look to see if you can find a ZIF socket for those chips that would fit, it would make it greatly easier to swap them, as when the lever is released, it has the "Zero Insertion Force" property that makes ZIF sockets what they are ;-)
number 13 in the pic. the BIOS is already in the socket, do need to do any soldering at all, just use a chip puller and you're set. or if it holds, you ould glue a case screw or similar to the chip to act as a handle to pull it out nice and straight.
i jsut checked other pics i found, it looks liek some arent socketed, so it would require desoldering and then soldering of a socket, which might be a bit of a pain in the arse at first but would likely pay off in the end.
but yeah, thats the process.
since you're going all out anyways, you might want to look to see if you can find a ZIF socket for those chips that would fit, it would make it greatly easier to swap them, as when the lever is released, it has the "Zero Insertion Force" property that makes ZIF sockets what they are ;-)
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2005
Hi. Awesome. Thanks again for your answers and tips, four4875. I thought
about that solution of soldering sockets onto the boards too, since both of
my boards have the chips soldered directly onto the board. I am glad to see
that I am thinking into the right directions. I'll try and find those needed ZIP
sockets.
about that solution of soldering sockets onto the boards too, since both of
my boards have the chips soldered directly onto the board. I am glad to see
that I am thinking into the right directions. I'll try and find those needed ZIP
sockets.
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2005
Hi again. I've been looking at every good hardware shop through the entire
country where I live and I didn't find a socket that can hold this particular
type of (BIOS) IC. The IC itsself is about 190 x 110 millimeters in size, has
32 pins on a 9x7 pins layout and those are rather uncommon characteristics.
I did find some SMD-sockets with 32 pins but they were all larger than the
size of the one that this BIOS IC needs, incorrectly shaped and 8x8 pinholes
layout ones. Looks like I'll have to improvise something by using the 8x8
pinholes ones that that I found... Have to solder the BIOS IC onto a small
custom made printing plate with an 9x7 layout on top leading to an 8x8
layout on the bottom, solder 32 pins in an 8x8 pins layout onto the bottom
of that plate and on it's turn correct that "incorrect" layout again by
wire-soldering the pins of the 8x8 pinholes socket to the 9x7 soldering points
on the motherboard. I did find pins too in a hardware store. Ones that come
on strips which have to be broken off in a row and they do have the right
distance between each of the pins (corresponding with the distances
between each of the pinholes inside the IC socket). However, it's gonna be
quite some work to do for just making the BIOS chip unpluggable /
hotswappable and I'm not sure yet if I will go for it. Yet if I decide to try out
the P4T-E/P4T533-C hybrid hack BIOS, it would make the experiments alot
safer of course. Unless if something would go wrong during the process of
making the IC unpluggable / hotswappable. Although I'm not so very much
worried about that but still. The nice thing with the hacked BIOS would be
that it -> might <- allow BIOS- and softwarematic Vcore control at
133-156MHz FSB and possibly add the feature of having HyperThreading
support when using the 533FSB 3.06GHz Northwood with HT (or even an
800FSB Socket 478 Northwood in case if the board/BIOS does recognise it,
and when I will use a turbo-pll to provide it with the needed 200(+) MHz FSB
frequency... I found this very nice OCZ PC4800 16-bit RDRAM... From what
I've read it's capable of doing 1600MHz. And it's still winking at me like
crazy!
)
country where I live and I didn't find a socket that can hold this particular
type of (BIOS) IC. The IC itsself is about 190 x 110 millimeters in size, has
32 pins on a 9x7 pins layout and those are rather uncommon characteristics.
I did find some SMD-sockets with 32 pins but they were all larger than the
size of the one that this BIOS IC needs, incorrectly shaped and 8x8 pinholes
layout ones. Looks like I'll have to improvise something by using the 8x8
pinholes ones that that I found... Have to solder the BIOS IC onto a small
custom made printing plate with an 9x7 layout on top leading to an 8x8
layout on the bottom, solder 32 pins in an 8x8 pins layout onto the bottom
of that plate and on it's turn correct that "incorrect" layout again by
wire-soldering the pins of the 8x8 pinholes socket to the 9x7 soldering points
on the motherboard. I did find pins too in a hardware store. Ones that come
on strips which have to be broken off in a row and they do have the right
distance between each of the pins (corresponding with the distances
between each of the pinholes inside the IC socket). However, it's gonna be
quite some work to do for just making the BIOS chip unpluggable /
hotswappable and I'm not sure yet if I will go for it. Yet if I decide to try out
the P4T-E/P4T533-C hybrid hack BIOS, it would make the experiments alot
safer of course. Unless if something would go wrong during the process of
making the IC unpluggable / hotswappable. Although I'm not so very much
worried about that but still. The nice thing with the hacked BIOS would be
that it -> might <- allow BIOS- and softwarematic Vcore control at
133-156MHz FSB and possibly add the feature of having HyperThreading
support when using the 533FSB 3.06GHz Northwood with HT (or even an
800FSB Socket 478 Northwood in case if the board/BIOS does recognise it,
and when I will use a turbo-pll to provide it with the needed 200(+) MHz FSB
frequency... I found this very nice OCZ PC4800 16-bit RDRAM... From what
I've read it's capable of doing 1600MHz. And it's still winking at me like
crazy!
)
