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Please Comment On this Watercooling Setup

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kolya

Registered
Joined
Apr 20, 2005
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Hi guys,

I have been out of the watercooling scene for a while but want to get back into it. Please tell me what you think of this setup I have made up so far.

Swiftech Apogee Extreme Performance CPU block $049.95
Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Cooler $029.95
Swiftech MCW60 VGA Cooling w/ Ramsinks $063.95
Swiftech MCP355 12 Volts 18 W Pump $079.95
Danger Den Dual 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir $031.95
Thermochill PA120.2 $104.99
Zerex Super Coolant 12 ounce $008.50
ClearFlex 60 Tubing 3/8" ID 5/8" OD 8 feet $010.00
Plastic Snap Tubing Clamps 10 clamps $007.50
MCB-120™ "Radbox" Revision 2 kit – Black $019.95

Total: $406.69
 
Looks good, however i'd probably drop bayres, go tee-line. Then i'd switch over to the MCP655/D5. I'd also go 1/2" tubing. And metal clamps.
 
Phrenetical said:
Is there really any difference between 1/2' and 3/8' tubing when it comes down to temps?


I'd suspect the extra flow from the 1/2" would help out a little bit with all of the blocks in this loop.

However, I'm still a W/C Noob :D
 
Quote:

"This is from Cathar

Quote:
Been rolling the whole tubing size idea around in my head, and thinking about trade-offs and the like.

I like the idea of 3/8" ID tubing, but I just can't shake the feeling that for >4LPM that it starts to become an increasingly significant source of restriction for those who wish to make use of strong pumps capable of pushing the higher flow rates. It's not that 3/8" tubing is bad at all for coping with moderate flow rates, it's just that it could be better. For example at 6LPM, 7' of 3/8" ID tubing is offering pretty close to 1mH2O of pressure drop all by itself.

But 3/8" is attractive because it's very light, and it bleeds air-bubbles fast.

1/2" tubing is fat and unattractive. Unless flow rates are getting past the 6LPM mark, air-bubbles don't bleed very well. It's heavy, and it requires fairly thick walls (1/8") before it can turn good radii without kinking, but this wall thickness comes at a cost of making it stiffer to turn, thus putting more leverage on the water-block's all important thermal contact. However, it takes around 13.5LPM before 7' of 1/2" ID tubing offers 1mH2O of pressure drop, so really it's almost overkill.

So I looked to the middle-ground, that being 7/16" (~11.1mm) that has 3/32" wall thickness for a total of 5/8" OD. Per length of tubing it's about 2/3's the weight of the 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) tubing. Being a thinner ID it is able to be bent into tighter radii without kinking, allowing for the use of the 3/32" wall thickness, which means that it also becomes easier to turn those radii. It offers 1mH2O of pressure drop at 9.5LPM for a 7' length, which pretty much puts it still as a very attractive offering.

Then I took into account stretching the 7/16" ID tubing over 1/2" OD fittings (barbs) with 10mm ID orifices. Due to the "lip effect" the 1/2" ID tubing actually offers nearly 3x the transitioning resistance at fittings as the 7/16" tubing whose ID more closely matches the ID of the fitting. Over a typical full system when fitting resistance is taken into account, the 7/16" ID tubing offers almost the same amount of tubing + fitting resistance as the 1/2" ID tubing.

Results were obtained using the pressure drop calculator from http://www.pressure-drop.org.

This all got me to thinking that really what us 1/2 inchers may really want to be doing is fitting 3/32" thickness walled 7/16" ID tubing over our 1/2" barbed systems, and pretty much be enjoying no extra system resistance, but gaining the benefits of lighter tubing that is easier to bleed (bleeds very well at a predicted ~5LPM), easier to bend, isn't as bulky, "hangs" less off water-blocks, and is significantly cheaper due to less wall material being used."
 
Swiftech Apogee Extreme Performance CPU block $049.95
Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Cooler $029.95
Swiftech MCW60 VGA Cooling w/ Ramsinks $063.95
Swiftech MCP355 12 Volts 18 W Pump $079.95
Danger Den Dual 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir $031.95
Thermochill PA120.2 $104.99
Zerex Super Coolant 12 ounce $008.50
ClearFlex 60 Tubing 3/8" ID 5/8" OD 8 feet $010.00
Plastic Snap Tubing Clamps 10 clamps $007.50
MCB-120™ "Radbox" Revision 2 kit – Black $019.95

Don't bother with the chipset block. It won't help. I silent fan and a cheap chipset cooler will do the same.
 
I agree with dicecca with the chipset block, dont even worry about it.

Save your self some money and grab an Evercool VC-RE.

Take it from me i had a chipset block and it was more trouble than it was worth,to much tubing, the extra cost, and it was cumbersome trying to fit everything with it.

I would also scrap the thermochill save some cash and go with a blackice or a mcr220 rad.

Although thermochills are the best I cant see my self spending an extra $60 or so for it.

You also didnt mention fans, it looks like your going for low noise operation so grab yourself a couple of yate loons, and a good fan controller.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I actually have a Evercool VC-RE on my board now and I'm sure it's just me but I don't like seeing my chipset reaching 48' degrees. Even if it's just for my peace of mind and not having to run a little fan in my system I think it will be worth watercooling the chipset as well. But feel free to call me crazy!:)
 
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