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Strange sound emitting from new build.

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Sannakji

Registered
Joined
Feb 6, 2013
I just finished my new build, and I have an Xbox One controller I want to use with it. Thing is, windows will issue the USB sound when I plug it in, and the pad vibrates, but the light doesn't turn on and its inputs won't work. Clean Windows 8 install, currently on the Enterprise trial until I move to Windows 10 in a few weeks. Using the same micro usb cable that worked fine on my netbook.
When I plugged it in for the first time, the driver dialogue box popped up, but I guess it didn't work. I followed these steps http://support.xbox.com/en-GB/xbox-on-windows/accessories/connect-xbox-one-controller-to-pc but as far as I can see the controller isn't even in the device manager. I have Asus' motherboard tool AI Suite III installed (I know, I know) maybe that's causing some kind of conflict. Only thing I can think of. But the tool is making it easy to control the swhile I'm stuck on integrated graphics for a while.
Microsoft really doesn't seem to want to provide separate downloads of the driver, insisting the controller must be 'found' first.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 
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Do you see any flags in device manager (like a yellow triangle) in the USB controller section? Are you plugging the Xbox controller into a USB 2 or a USB 3 port. If USB 3, try a USB 2 port. USB 3 can still be problematic and some devices just won't seem to sync correctly with it. I have a USB 3 compatible hard drive cradle that gave me problems on Windows 8.1 like that but it would work fine when plugged into a USB 2.0 port. Also, check to see if there is bios update for the motherboard that might address USB issues. USB issues are more common than you think.
 
Do you see any flags in device manager (like a yellow triangle) in the USB controller section? Are you plugging the Xbox controller into a USB 2 or a USB 3 port. If USB 3, try a USB 2 port. USB 3 can still be problematic and some devices just won't seem to sync correctly with it. I have a USB 3 compatible hard drive cradle that gave me problems on Windows 8.1 like that but it would work fine when plugged into a USB 2.0 port. Also, check to see if there is bios update for the motherboard that might address USB issues. USB issues are more common than you think.

No, nothing like that.

New problem though. PC just ':(' screened with a BAD_POOL_HEADER warning. And now in Device Manager->Other Devices I'm getting yellow triangle exclamations on Controller, PCI Memory Controller, PCI Simple communications controller, and SM bus controller. Am I already dead? Google suggests I have bad RAM. But all those mentions of PCI looks like a motherboard problem to me :(

EDIT: I'm thinking the warnings in the device manager are due to not having a GPU in. And the crash could be down to software (malwarebytes was known to cause it). Phew. Back to the original problem lol.
 
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Never had malwarebytes cause a problem like that and I use it all the time in my computer repair business. Have you checked the RAM with Memtest86+?
 
Make sure you get the appropriate software from MS website for your controller that should sold the problem.
 
I might just upgrade to the W10 trial, apparently the drivers are part of the core OS.

Next alarming thing. There's a sound coming from the PC when I scroll webpages. It's a Corsair 240 with the back end facing me so I can hear it. Thing is, I've only got an SSD in there, no mechanical. Nothing like it really. It sounds like a mechanical drive kinda, low and kinda scratchy. Very disconcerting. Time to run memtest I think. How do I use it, and what is it exactly? It's not an .exe, it's mostly .ISO's.
 
Put a blank writable CD or DVD into the optical drive and then download Memtest86+. Find the downloaded file and right click on it. Choose burn ISO and it will create a bootable optical disk. Restart the computer and let it boot to the optical drive. Memtest86+ will start its own routine. Let it run overnight. If the RAM is faulty it will show up in the Memtest user interface as red on blue warnings.
 
I've never built a system with an optical drive heh. Nor do I have an external on hand. Any other way to run it, or other software I can use?
 
I farted around with an Xbox 360 controller for days before I realized that the charge-n-play ones do not work with a PC unless you have the wireless dongle. meh. Hope that is not your problem.
 
I farted around with an Xbox 360 controller for days before I realized that the charge-n-play ones do not work with a PC unless you have the wireless dongle. meh. Hope that is not your problem.

Not a problem with the Xbox One controller, unless he is using a charging only microUSB cable.
 
You can make a bootable USB. You just need to make a bootable linux USB with the ISO. I forget what the software to do that is called though. A quick google search should turn up the link.
 
Didn't have another :( screen but a game did crash (Disney Infinity, maybe its prone to it). Apart from the Xbox controller issue I'm thinking this might be new system jitters. I remember my first rig :( screened a few times when I first built it then didn't after that. How these DDR4 Corsair sticks are ok, people have been reporting they don't go up to 3000MHz even thought that's what they're sold as.

Is it possible to bump from an 8.1 enterprise trial to a W10 trial through the store? Or will I need to make a W10 usb? I can keep all my installs when upgrading windows right?

Is there a general system diagnostics test that takes less than a day to run?
 
Please create a Sig with complete system specs similar to what you see in my Sig. To create a Sig go to Settings at the top of the page and then look down the left hand side for Edit Signature.

- - - Updated - - -
 
Good.

Now download and install CPU-z. When you run the program you will see it has several tabs at the top for different hardware subsystems.

Please capture images of these three tabs: CPU, Memory, and SPD. You can capture and crop images on the desktop with Snipping Tool in Windows Accessories.

Attach the three images with a post. Use the built in forum file finder/attacher tool under Go Advanced. That tool's button is found below the lower right corner of any new post window.
 
It's OK, I have Gadwin Printscreen :) Here it is

Screenshot%202015-12-28%2018.00.01.png


Slot 2 and 4 are occupied, because the mobo's manual stipulated that's where I should put the sticks if I'm only using two. Is that correct?
 
The only thing I question from those pics is the Command Rate (CR) showing in your memory tab. Unless this is different in DDR4 technololgy than in previous generations of RAM, normally, when you have only two sticks of RAM installed your CR is 1T. Also, check in bios to make sure your RAM voltage is showing at least 1.2. Wouldn't hurt to run it a little higher even as the RAM is rated for 1.35 volts at full frequncy. I would try that. Add say .05 to the RAM voltage and see if your instability issues disappear.
 
You also aren't running the full 3000MHz that the kit is supposed to run. Have you tried enabling XMP in the BIOS?
 
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