Water cooling with a motorcycle radiator?

[hokiealumnus]

Dude the people were insulting me so i insulted back that's not breaking the rules right? you saw the stuff Supertrucker posted and the "troll the walls"

You really want to do this in public? How about your wisely edited but initially blatant, insultingly chauvinistic post, which had nothing to do with what anyone else said?

Not to mention, what are you...three years old? But Ms. Krabappel, he said it first! If you have a problem with what someone says and you believe it's a personal insult, report it and it will be addressed. Don't lash out like a toddler. It only serves to make matters worse, as this trainwreck of a thread has proven beyond a shadow of a doubt.

Go ahead keep going this direction. It seems the thread has gone past the point of having any meaning anyway. I'm happy to close it without a reported post if this is the avenue you choose to trek down.

 

[HD5830Gamer]

You really want to do this in public? How about your wisely edited but initially blatant, insultingly chauvinistic post, which had nothing to do with what anyone else said?

Not to mention, what are you...three years old? But Ms. Krabappel, he said it first! If you have a problem with what someone says and you believe it's a personal insult, report it and it will be addressed. Don't lash out like a toddler. It only serves to make matters worse, as this trainwreck of a thread has proven beyond a shadow of a doubt.

Go ahead keep going this direction. It seems the thread has gone past the point of having any meaning anyway. I'm happy to close it without a reported post if this is the avenue you choose to trek down.

Look man i just said that a bike radiator would cool better and would last longer and people started correcting me about how PC rads are better in an insulting way. Read the post and edits and you'll understand what is going on.

 

[hokiealumnus]

Actually, you came in and, prior to anyone saying anything even remotely negative, you said "PC rads are junk". If you continued in the vein of "a bike radiator would cool better and would last longer", then maybe the entire thread wouldn't have gone the direction it did.

 

[HD5830Gamer]

Actually, you came in and, prior to anyone saying anything even remotely negative, you said "PC rads are junk". If you continued in the vein of "a bike radiator would cool better and would last longer", then maybe the entire thread wouldn't have gone the direction it did.

Alright enough of this **** is this over? seriously dude let's just stop the arguing and talk about the rad and stuff. Get back to the point and stop adding gas to the fire.

 

[hokiealumnus]

Perhaps I'm the only one that thinks I'm responding to posts you make? If you want to let it go, then by all means... let. it. go.

 

[HD5830Gamer]

Perhaps I'm the only one that thinks I'm responding to posts you make? If you want to let it go, then by all means... let. it. go.

Well back to the point about the rad should i go with a really big PC rad or this bike rad?

 

[hokiealumnus]

Big PC rad IMHO.

• You don't need to run antifreeze (or other anti-corrosive) because they don't contain aluminum.
• They already easily fit commonly available fans.
• You won't need a squirrel cage blower to get air through them (that's an intentional over-exaggeration).
• If you buy the right case, they already fit without modification.

If you just feel like running a bike rad, go for it. There's nothing wrong with it if you don't care about the items above and enjoy modding for modding's sake. People have run car rads and heater cores for years. Before and after made-for-PC rads were readily available.

EDIT - If you really want some overkill, check out the MO-RA3.

 

[skorpien]

I'll address the first post then. PC rads don't need to be TIG welded or have pressure caps (though I have seen some that do have a bleeding screw to help with bleeding). As for the ports, most here place them at the top to help with bleeding.

Will a motorcycle rad work? Sure, but it will require a good amount of modding and use of anti-corrosives. After all, PC rads are made to be mounted either inside or on the outside of your computer's chassis.

If you're in a modding mood, I would love to see pictures of your build afterwards. I love seeing a good modding thread. And I'm being completely honest, no hostility or sarcasm intended.

Edit: it seems my post is rather redundant. If a mod sees fit, you can erase it.

 

[HD5830Gamer]

Big PC rad IMHO.

• You don't need to run antifreeze (or other anti-corrosive) because they don't contain aluminum.
• They already easily fit commonly available fans.
• You won't need a squirrel cage blower to get air through them (that's an intentional over-exaggeration).
• If you buy the right case, they already fit without modification.

If you just feel like running a bike rad, go for it. There's nothing wrong with it if you don't care about the items above and enjoy modding for modding's sake. People have run car rads and heater cores for years. Before and after made-for-PC rads were readily available.

What about bacteria growth is that a problem? anti-freeze is just good to have in a loop even on copper rads because it lubricates the pump right or wrong?

 

[spitter3]

What about bacteria growth is that a problem? anti-freeze is just good to have in a loop even on copper rads because it lubricates the pump right or wrong?

Punps use water as a lubricant, nothing more is needed, and a boicide to stop the life growth..

 

[hokiealumnus]

No lubrication needed. The part of the pump that touches water is a magnetic impeller that has to be in contact with water (or it'll burn up), but it doesn't need any additional lubricant.

You do need to run some sort of biocide. The best cooling you can get will come from distilled water (or deionized outside the US) plus PT Nuke PHN or a silver kill coil.

 

[HD5830Gamer]

No lubrication needed. The part of the pump that touches water is a magnetic impeller that has to be in contact with water (or tit'll burn up), but it doesn't need any additional lubricant.

You do need to run some sort of biocide. The best cooling you can get will come from distilled water (or deionized outside the US) plus PT Nuke PHN or a silver kill coil.

But adding anti-freeze won't hurt right? I'm still thinking about which i should go with as I'm saving up my money ($300) for it. Might freak out some people at a LAN party lmao.

 

[hokiealumnus]

It will hurt. It lowers the specific heat capacity of the water. From another thread on the topic:

Water is the best thing you can get. What you're after is on this page. It lists the specific heat capacities of various liquids. Specific heat is "...the amount of heat required to change a unit mass of a substance by one degree in temperature." Thus, the higher the specific heat, the harder it is to raise its temperature.

From that chart, the specific heat of water is 4.19 kJ/kg°K or 1 btu/lb°F.

Ethelyne glycol - and all other fluids on that list - have a lower specific heat capacity than water. Ethelyne glycol's specific heat is 2.36 kJ/kg°K or 0.56 btu/lb°F, meaning it takes just over half of the amount of heat to raise it one degree relative to water.

Thus, combining that with water will decrease the mixture's specific heat relative to water alone. Referencing the specific heat chart on this page shows how much certain percentages of ethelyne glycol-to-water mixture will play out. It's not as bad with, say, a 25% mixture...but the mixture still has less specific heat than plain old water itself.

This is why we recommend water. Distilled water is cheap (in other countries, you may have to opt for deionized) and it has the best specific heat of any affordable liquid out there. 12°C isn't even close to the point where moving water in a loop will freeze, or even begin to slush. Unless you plan on benching with the loop at 0°C or below (which introduces insulation problems you'd have to deal with), stick with distilled water only plus biocide (PT Nuke-PHN) or a silver kill coil and be happy.

 

[merz.38]

No lubrication needed. The part of the pump that touches water is a magnetic impeller that has to be in contact with water (or it'll burn up), but it doesn't need any additional lubricant.

You do need to run some sort of biocide. The best cooling you can get will come from distilled water (or deionized outside the US) plus PT Nuke PHN or a silver kill coil.

I'm pretty sure you can order DI water for industrial applications, We had it coming out of the faucet in some of the labs at one place I was interning at.

That being said, I have never tried to purchase any of it for personal use.

 

[HD5830Gamer]

It will hurt. It lowers the specific heat capacity of the water. From another thread on the topic:

I guess it's used in cars because it's to increase the boiling point of the water and PCs never get that hot. But 25% anti-freeze and 75% water would work right? i mean there are many types of anti-freeze some are red some are green some are orange and more.

 

[Knufire]

I guess it's used in cars because it's to increase the boiling point of the water and PCs never get that hot. But 25% anti-freeze and 75% water would work right? i mean there are many types of anti-freeze some are red some are green some are orange and more.

It'll work fine, it just won't perform as well as pure distilled water would.

 

[merz.38]

I guess it's used in cars because it's to increase the boiling point of the water and PCs never get that hot. But 25% anti-freeze and 75% water would work right? i mean there are many types of anti-freeze some are red some are green some are orange and more.

Anti-freeze is required for automotive applications to protect the components of cooling systems from damage due to exposure to colder temperatures. Water when it freezes expands and can rupture intricate parts of a cooling system. Anti-freeze, creates a mixture with slightly worse cooling properties than water is a beneficial aditive because it lowers the temperature that the mixture freezes at.

While antifreeze increases the temperature that it boils at, it is trivial because automotive cooling systems operate in a closed loop. The increase in pressure as the temperature of the fluild as heat is added to the system prevents the fluid from 'boiling' which is just a consequence of the vapor pressure of the fluid reaching or exceeding the pressure of the ambient environment.

I think I've got most of this right, it's been a while lol...

 

[HD5830Gamer]

Anti-freeze is required for automotive applications to protect the components of cooling systems from damage due to exposure to colder temperatures. Water when it freezes expands and can rupture intricate parts of a cooling system. Anti-freeze, creates a mixture with slightly worse cooling properties than water is a beneficial aditive because it lowers the temperature that the mixture freezes at.

While antifreeze increases the temperature that it boils at, it is trivial because automotive cooling systems operate in a closed loop. The increase in pressure as the temperature of the fluild as heat is added to the system prevents the fluid from 'boiling' which is just a consequence of the vapor pressure of the fluid reaching or exceeding the pressure of the ambient environment.

I think I've got most of this right, it's been a while lol...

I guess freon would be even better LMAO!!!

 

[merz.38]

I guess freon would be even better LMAO!!!

In terms of specific heat? Probably not. Freon was a popular refrigerant before it was replaced by a 'less environmentally harmful' fluid called R-134a. Furthermore, unless your loop was pressurized the fluid would actually be in a gaseous state and you would need to use a different type of pump. Gases typically have lower specific heats than that of fluids. In any case you'd want to design a 'refrigeration loop' to properly utilize a fluid like freon or r-134a.

 

[HD5830Gamer]

In terms of specific heat? Probably not. Freon was a popular refrigerant before it was replaced by a 'less environmentally harmful' fluid called R-134a. Furthermore, unless your loop was pressurized the fluid would actually be in a gaseous state and you would need to use a different type of pump. Gases typically have lower specific heats than that of fluids. In any case you'd want to design a 'refrigeration loop' to properly utilize a fluid like freon or r-134a.

Of course you can't put freon in a water cooling loop, it would explode due to very high pressure. I mean like a freon compressor from a refrigerator then condensing rears in.