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Water cooling with a motorcycle radiator?

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Right... obviously you'd be an idiot to force a 19tpi part into an 18tpi hole... what is the correct tap to use for that type of fitting?
 
The 1/4" version shown on the page you linked is the correct 1/4" BSPP tap. But unless your threads are over 1/2-3/4" long, the other tap should work. Surely when dealing with the G1/4 barbs and compressions we use in our computers it should work. IIRC, the older Swiftech rads used 1/4" NPSM, which is another designation for NPSI I believe, just rated for another purpose.

Here's a couple of links you might want to look at if you are interested:

Threads

Thread standards
 
Lol, long live the inch! Down with the metric system! I honestly dont recall if my tap was bspp or npt, ill see if I can find it and check. I only ever used it for threading pvc for a tube res so its entirely possible it was wrong and the pvc was just soft enough that it worked. ill dig out my box of seldom used tools in the next day or 3 and see which it was...
 
Lol, long live the inch! Down with the metric system! I honestly dont recall if my tap was bspp or npt, ill see if I can find it and check. I only ever used it for threading pvc for a tube res so its entirely possible it was wrong and the pvc was just soft enough that it worked. ill dig out my box of seldom used tools in the next day or 3 and see which it was...
mmm pvc seems kinda risky.... i guess it's fine for low pressure.

I made some pretty nifty aluminum adapters to go through the wall of my case for the loop i'm building..... Then again mine is also going to eventually be a pressurized refrigeration cycle....
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=701267&page=3
 
Wierd, how come they're using bspp? we're in 'Merica! They should use 'Merican pipe threads!

I want to say it had to do with the people developing older parts (Cathar's Storm blocks, Thermochill Rads) were not from the US. But that's kind of a long-shot.
 
I want to say it had to do with the people developing older parts (Cathar's Storm blocks, Thermochill Rads) were not from the US. But that's kind of a long-shot.
Hm, that's still strange. Just by doing a quick search, the fittings// taps// hw aren't any cheaper for bspp, in most cases parts are harder to come by and more expensive, (based on a topical search at mcmaster.com....)

I'm pretty sure I'd get smacked around at work something fierce if I proposed a design for something with BSPP fittings vs NPT b/c of the price. Seems like at some point they'd want to offer the alternative, and more readilly available American threads... That's just me.
 
Thermochill was based in the UK and if I'm not mistaken, Cathar lives in Australia. Hence the "British" standard of piping.

Exactly my point. Re-reading my post, I realized I didn't make that inherently clear (I said they weren't from the US, not that they worked outside of the US). You'd have to wonder how difficult it would be to find NPT fittings in the UK or in Austrailia :)
 
if your looking for a good rad, look for an oil cooler or a universal rad from a parts store, the fins aren't to close together and they also look nice. They run about 30$ or so and they would match up to the hoses used in the rest of the setup. There still aluminum so you would have to run antifreeze, but using a green fluid would look nice.
 
if your looking for a good rad, look for an oil cooler or a universal rad from a parts store, the fins aren't to close together and they also look nice. They run about 30$ or so and they would match up to the hoses used in the rest of the setup. There still aluminum so you would have to run antifreeze, but using a green fluid would look nice.

The bar and plate stacked tranny coolers you mean? the wall/channels are too thick. I already ordered the rad 3 days ago i need to check the fitting size before i start buying tubing,pump etc.
 
d13101_aa.jpg
D13101_tn.jpg

This is what I was talking about, these will fit 2 x 120mm fans. Hope to see pics when you start the build.
 
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I've always seen several references to using DI water in these threads regarding systems and never said anything, but I used to program and run CNC Wire EDM machines and the whole system used it for isolating the charge from the wire from straying into the fluid at the cutting point.

In order to restrict it from causing corrosion in disparate metals etc while doing work like that you had to have a re-chargable resin system installed with it to maintain the proper PH levels to keep it operational, at least in a system like that.

Which complicates things further of course :)

:beer:

Kinda like that big water chiller and the resin tank on the rear of this baby, you could try one of those out too hehe but J/K
 

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I can see that since it's not a closed loop, and the chemicals are umm rather different than what PC's use in the liquid.

You need all sorts of special stuff.
If you meant on what I posted above even in a closed loop using disparate metals the DI water would change characteristics over time. Was the only reason I was pointing that one out to begin with.

Over time the water would no longer be De-Ionized without some form of a resin to filter it. And then you'd run into that corrosion problem.

Might take awhile, I'm not sure but you'd still be running it through a system where it would be running near an electrical system to begin with it. Albeit a lower level one than than one of those babies put out, I used to run a few of em.

I just went and pulled a pic up of someone elses, hadn't used one in a few years myself.
 
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Ethelyne glycol - and all other fluids on that list - have a lower specific heat capacity than water. Ethelyne glycol's specific heat is 2.36 kJ/kg°K or 0.56 btu/lb°F, meaning it takes just over half of the amount of heat to raise it one degree relative to water.


Thanks for the link thats a good read. I nuked that for a bit but looking at the standard characteristics makes more sense.

Water can change almost twice the heat per pound that antifreeze can. :attn:

Took me a minute to figure that out.

Oh BTW for other readers, if you add say 10% Antifreeze to a loop, it drops from say 1 BTU per pound to .956 BTU per pound. 20% = .922 BTU/pound (.044 for every 10%). So not a HUGE difference but still a difference and with enthusiasts every drop of performance counts!!!


Of course you can't put freon in a water cooling loop, it would explode due to very high pressure. I mean like a freon compressor from a refrigerator then condensing rears in.


Thats called a chill water loop and it has been done many times before. Its something the average hands on techy can rig up them selves (where as a single/stage or cascade cooler they would not since it would require regassing and welding (err soldering/brazing).

you can even just say "to heck with phase change!" And put your hose s into something like a water cooler, then just fill up that bad boy with icewater :)
 
Umm, that's 2001 watercooling. You know much about flow rates and restrictions?

Show me one rig build log and pics that's from 2005 or later that has one of those rads in it that performs well.:popcorn:

We have purdy rads now with fan holes and g1/4 threaded barbs why would we buy a heatercore that requires a bit of extra work? Except for "aesthetics." Hmm which is conversely aesthetic in a sense. Than again aesthetics are subjective. One mans trash is another treasure!

A motorcycle rad equipped with braided hosing and diamond plate veneer on the case would be awesome (not for me.. im take whats on hand to hold your parts togehter guy. Dont care about pretty if it works.. Ohhh Even better, bust hte diamond plate up with some road rash or buck shot or hell just some burn marks... (Hey I like looking arty case.. I just dont own them)

What guys dont do that? Look at that boob job whoo who. (goes back to wife that had 3 kids).

Gotta say OP though with a $300 budget.. you could make a nice loop. the current "aesthetic" is minimal. With the rigth case you can interior munt a 3x120 which will take care of a i7 CPU. very nicely. Personally I thought 4x120 was the minimum for CPU only cooling. then again I was throwing it out the window in February.
wc001.jpg
wc001-1.jpg

0C temps and no insulation why? Because those were intakes on the rad :)
 
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Umm, that's 2001 watercooling. You know much about flow rates and restrictions?

Show me one rig build log and pics that's from 2005 or later that has one of those rads in it that performs well.:popcorn:

Got this in my inbox.

2py7yth.png.jpg



Thought I'd share this with anyone asking Conumdrum about using automotive parts for PC cooling.

No fights intended.
 
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