Water Loop bleeding problem

[CorntoeGoblin]

Hi guys, I seem to be having an issue with bleeding air out of a water loop. This is my second water cooled PC so I'm not a newbie but after a month of troubleshooting this issue I've broken down and need the help of your gentle people.

The issue:

I have 2 rads(120 & 240) , CPU, GPU, reservoir in a loop. I will manually bleed the lines tilting and shaking the case with a second power supply to the point where the reservoir is empty and no more bubbles come out of the pump. I'll run the computer with a load and after 2-3 hours, the water slowly rises back into the reservoir until it tops out and then the output of the pump gets blocked with a huge air bubble shutting down the PC due to heat. I have no idea where the air is coming from as I modified the tubing so that it's impossible for the air to go down from the reservoir back into the loop. The pump is extremely noisy and it'll go through periods of being loud and then quiet.

Here are sum pics of my current loop:




The red arrow is the direction of flow. The blue arrow is where the the air bubble blockage occurs.

 

[Mr.Scott]

Loop is layed out badly. Res needs to feed the pump first and only. You're using it like a T-line, and on the output side besides. If you're going to run it like that, you should at least move the T to the input line on the pump.

 

[Nebulous]

Loop is layed out wrong. Res needs to feed the pump first and only.

I concur!

I have no idea how you got that mess to work, but it's all wrong. Also you should put the 240 Rad on top.

Res> Inlet to pump>1st rad>Cpu block>VGA block>2nd rad> back to res and it's starts all over.

 

[Waza]

Switch that T junction before the pump and you should be fine.
Parallel res loop are always hard to bleed but it can be done.
Your radiators are fine how they are btw.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Welcome to OCFs.

You're killing your pump in that configuration, hence the crying sounds from it. Not to bash you but that isn't a proper way of routing a loop. I am wondering since this is your second water cooling loop, how was your first one configured.

Regardless, I would advise on getting some quality PC water cooling tubing, like the PrimoChill Advanced LRT in your size and color if you choose too or clear and reroute the whole loop. I would even reposition the radiators to make the tubing route short and clean. This should help better the flow as well.

Give us a list of all your components involved so we can better understand what you have there.

 

[CorntoeGoblin]

I built my first water cooled pc back in '09. It was simpler, only CPU and a 120 rad. Looking back, I did have the t line for the res installed on the inlet side.

Here's what i got all in 1/2" ID:

Danger den WB
120 & 240 MM radiators
gtx 680 hydro copper
Danger den reservoir http://www.dangerden.com/store/fillport-reservoir.html
Swiftech pump

Some of the tubing choices are because of case/component blockage and there was no other way. For example, the tubing from the 240 Rad to the pump had to be short, so the pump could fit. I'm thinking of moving the T line probably to the red arrow. I couldn't get the tubing to fit from the 120 rad to the GPU without a kink, so I had to make my own solution, which will most likely be obsolete once I get the LRT tubing. Or another option is to extend the tubing from the 240 rad to the pump. It'll make it a tight fit though. I'm open to suggestions.

 

[CorntoeGoblin]

Another thing to mention is, if i were to move the 240 rad to the top of the case, where would I put the pump? It can't rest on the fans.

 

[trents]

How about putting the 240 rad that is currently on the bottom on top of the 240 rad that is already on the top panel? Stack them with fans between them. Sure, you will be using a pre-warmed air coming off the the one to cool the other but is that any different really than if you had one rad on top that was twice as thick? Then you could mount the pump on the bottom of the case. As it is right now, some of that bottom rad's air flow is being blocked by the pump as it is.

 

[Nebulous]

How about putting the 240 rad that is currently on the bottom on top of the 240 rad that is already on the top panel? Stack them with fans between them. Sure, you will be using a pre-warmed air coming off the the one to cool the other but is that any different really than if you had one rad on top that was twice as thick? Then you could mount the pump on the bottom of the case. As it is right now, some of that bottom rad's air flow is being blocked by the pump as it is.

Trents, he only has 1x120rad and 1x240 rad, not 2x240's

 

[trents]

Opps, I see that now. Those two top fans don't have a rad under them now that I look at it more closely. Well that really simplifies things then and others have already suggested moving the rad on the bottom to the top. That's a no brainer to me.

 

[Daddyjaxx]

Res---->Pump is the only thing that really matters in any water cooling. I prefer res--->pump--->rads, but that only makes about a .5c degree difference. Res to pump is the most important thing, after that do wahat you want with the least amount of tubing. Have a res with a pump...problem solved.

 

[Infinite66]

Pretty much what everyone else is saying. Have the res feed the pump, then go from there.

 

[dtrunk]

in order for this to work, you need the Tee here... and the fill port above. And it will still be a b*$&#h to bleed.

((This is a fill port guys, not a rez))

 

[RnRollie]

i'ld say to "lay the pump on its back" in the ODD drive bays, so the res can feed the pump directly and then take it from there
pump -> CPU -> (rear)Rad (turned 90°) -> GPU -> (floor)Rad -> Res

It res is too long/high, then bolting the pump to the 3.5 drive cages (approx between cage & GPU) would also work... in that case the res can feed the pump through an L & a T

The easiest would be to make "a box" , and mount rad(s), pump, res in it. If you do it right, it can work as a pedestal; otherwise a side-by-side config. You'ld be using a lot less complex "plumbing" that way.

 

[Nebulous]

The feed inlet is to the front of the pump, not the top. Top is outlet.

 

[RnRollie]

The feed inlet is to the front of the pump, not the top. Top is outlet.

So you "flip it on its back".. the part pointing up is now the inlet

There is no law that says that you always have to mount the D5 like this

Nobody is stopping you from mounting it like this

or like this

 

[Nebulous]

I never said it was the law to keep the pump one way. I just mearly noted how it was for the OP . I have mine on the side as noted in 2nd pic, being fed by the MCRes, but my outlet faces away from the drive bays.

 

[Meathead]

in order for this to work, you need the Tee here... and the fill port above. And it will still be a b*$&#h to bleed.

((This is a fill port guys, not a rez))

You have to have a perfect seal on the cap or it will just leak out the top of that T just to note in case OP tries it. While that will work and the correct way to use the T on the outlet side, it's honestly best to avoid that imo. I tried that back in the day and it worked like hammered dog ****

 

[Meathead]

So you "flip it on its back".. the part pointing up is now the inlet

There is no law that says that you always have to mount the D5 like this

Nobody is stopping you from mounting it like this

or like this

Any benefits to orienting the pump on its side that you know of? Considering tearing my rig down when I replace the pump to possibly redo my layout with the pump but I don't really feel like it unless I can justify it as being better

 

[BugFreak]

Like people above have said, it is your plumbing and flow causing your problem. I toyed with putting my watercooling setup in that case but eventually opted out because of fit problems. It is still a great case though. That being said, why are you not putting the 240 radiator in the front intake? That case is designed to have one in the front intake and another on the top if needed. Plus you will get fresh incoming air to the radiator. Personally, I would ditch the single 120 you have and put another 240 on the top and get a pump/res combo like shown above, but this is how I would plumb it with your current pieces. Sorry for the bad diagram but it is all I could do with MS Paint. This way you can get rid of all those angle fittings and run straight tubing. I left the T-line open on the diagram so that part is up to you but will probably work with your res where it is if you use it.