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WaterCooling where to start?

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fauzool

New Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2017
Ive read the guide in the sticky and I am completely confused and lost at this point. I do not know what to really buy the amounts of everything ill need and so forth. I will be building my own PC this time with water cooling. I plan on getting Corsair 750D Airflow Edition case which I believe would benefit me since it is made for water cooling. At this point im not really sure what to ask. How much on ave am I looking to spend for water cooling? I would really like to get this setup and I think once I buy EVERYTHING I need it will be much easier for me to figure out I just dont truly know what all I need from reading I know I need blocks, radiators, pumps, reservoirs, fittings, and tubing, but how many of each, where to put them, what ones to buy? There seems like there is alot and Id appreciate any help or tips/suggestions I could get.

Thank you
 
I'll be honest with you, I've tried watercooling and honestly I hated it. You may be different but going a non AIO setup is messy, leaky and everyone who has gone that route has lost hardware to it. Anyone who's being honest will admit that fact, I have, everyone has. Some folks are hardcore water coolers, ie guys like batboy and others and will do it regardless of the added cost and risk. Me? Nah, I did it once and that was it for me. I'd much rather spend the money on better equipment and load up on Delta fans but to each his own.

EK and Swiftech are good places to start or if you're feeling less adventurous look at an AIO unit. Doesn't matter which they're all made by Asetek
 
I have been watercooling for 10+ plus years, never used an AIO kit.
If I'm being honest, I've never had a single leak and never lost a single piece of hardware. Now I've only built 5-6 systems over the last 10+ years, but I took my time with them and never had a single issue. When I built my current system, neither CPU or GPU saw even a second of run time without a waterblock on it. I'll only run water, I like cool temps and a wisper quiet system.

First thing to decide is what you're cooling. If it's just a CPU or CPU and GPU, there's kits that come with everything you need. It's a great way to get into watercooling with the ability to expand or swap parts later down the road. Ek makes good kits, but if you want a decent CPU-only kit at a decent price, check out the XSPC kits. Great entry level kits, and again you can expand them later down the line to add in a gpu block if you want.

Also decide if you want to do soft or hard tubing, they make kits with both. Hard tubing might get a little overwhelming for a beginner, but it does have a cleaner look. I never ventured down the hard tubing route, always seemed like too much work to me.
 
You seem like a soft tubing kind of person. Dont over complicate the process by going hard. :)

What are you cooling? Youd need a block for that. You need about 120mm worth of radiator for every 100w you want to cool. Youd need one set of tubing (10'). Barbs sepend 9n what yoy buy as to how many you need.. some come with barbs. 1 pump, 1 res...

...jeff has asked great questions.. :)
 
I've had a watercooled computer for 15 years now. But, admittedly it's not for everyone. In that amount of time, I only had one small leak. The plastic reservoir cracked right where one of the barbs screwed in. I was warned this reservoir was prone to crack and after about 4 or 5 years, it did. I probably overtightened the barb too. It was a bay reservoir, so the component directly below the leak was a CD burner. So, I got lucky I guess, only cost me a cheap optical drive.

First you need to decide what diameter hose to use. I use little ole 3/8" ID that is 1/2" OD. Some like to use 1/2" ID hose. There are pros and cons to both sizes. I started out with 3/8" and never saw a reason to change.

There is no one size fits all recipe for custom building your own loop. I have a fairly simple loop, I can describe it in detail, maybe that'll help. Let's start at the reservoir, since I already mentioned it. This is just a place that allows easy filling of the loop. It helps a lot to get the air out of the system when you first start. A reservoir is handy to watch the coolant level. While I and many use a reservoir, it's kind of optional. You can install a T-line with a fill port (I've done that when I didn't have enough room for a reservoir). AIO units are sealed and I tried one like that before. They're convenient at first, but they don't last in the long run.

Ok, my system has a reservoir and 2 barbs and 2 clamps. You can plumb your system anyway, but to me it makes the most sense to use gravity and run a hose to the pump mounted lower in the case. The pump will have 2 barbs and 2 clamps. My loop goes to the CPU water block next. You have to make sure you get the right kit to mount the block onto whatever socket you plan to use. The water block has 2 barbs and 2 clamps. A piece of hose runs to the radiator (you'll want a minimum of two 120mm fans on the radiator, but if you have room, go for a triple). Guess what? You'll need 2 more barbs and 2 more clamps. Run a hose from the radiator to the reservoir to complete the loop. I know the next question, how much hose (flex tubing). If you decide to go the rigid tubing, you'll need someone else to help you. How much hose depends on how big your case is and how you route the hose. I try to route my hose in the most direct manner, so I probably have not much more than 4 ft. of hose. I would buy at least 5 ft., but urge a first timer to get 6 ft. (2 meters) to allow extra in case you cut a hose too short (yes, I've done that). There you go, simple, really.
 
. How much hose depends on how big your case is and how you route the hose. I try to route my hose in the most direct manner, so I probably have not much more than 4 ft. of hose. I would buy at least 5 ft., but urge a first timer to get 6 ft. (2 meters) to allow extra in case you cut a hose too short (yes, I've done that). There you go, simple, really.

Ive got a massive case, two radiators, cpu block, and gpu block. I bought a 15' roll on my last build and even after two builds I still have a little left. Primochill LRT 3/8 x 5/8 is like $2.50 a foot. Its worth the few bucks to buy a couple extra feet then to come up short in the end and have to order more and wait. It'll be the cheapest part of the build. (I think my fittings were $5 a piece and Ive got 10 of them). Most places sell the 10' box for about $25, definitely worth it if you think you may need to make changes at any point.
 
You seem like a soft tubing kind of person. Dont over complicate the process by going hard. :)

What are you cooling? Youd need a block for that. You need about 120mm worth of radiator for every 100w you want to cool. Youd need one set of tubing (10'). Barbs sepend 9n what yoy buy as to how many you need.. some come with barbs. 1 pump, 1 res...

...jeff has asked great questions.. :)

Agree with that!

Please tell us more about your system. What CPU will you be cooling and will you be overclocking? Will you be water cooling your video card also and if so, what model card?

There is also the option of buying a do it your self kit that will come with all the parts you need: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAC8W5SB2261 or https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAC8W4Z05631

I would estimate you will wind up spending $225 to $300 if you buy your own parts and go with soft tubing.

I would also disagree with Sentential's statement about everyone who ever built a water cooling system losing equipment to leaks if they "would admit it." I have built two custom loops and never fried anything.

If you assemble the system and place absorbent rags in key places before power on you should be okay. Then power it on and observe. If there are leaks they probably won't be gross ones but just drips. Having the kind of leak that sprays all over your motherboard isn't likely because you aren't talking about that much pressure. Power down quickly if you see a leak. The most critical area to protect well with rags will likely be the CPU socket area. On a tower style computer gravity will carry most leaks parallel to the motherboard down to the bottom of the case, not onto the motherboard anyway. The exception to that might be the lines coming from the radiator to the pump where drips might run down the side of the tube to the socket area if the radiator is located in the top panel of the case.

Having said all that I would also say that for many people going to custom water cooling is something they experiment with for a time and then go back to air but not necessarily because they had bad experiences with leaks. Mostly it's the hassle of the upkeep. There is maintenance involved that is not necessary with air cooling or AIO cooling kits which are throw away. Over time algae builds up in the system so there is need to flush and refill which is where you have to also be careful to not spill on the motherboard. Plan your system in such a way that flushing and refilling happens in a way that adding coolant can be done away from the open case. Add a drain tube and a fill tube that are long enough to get those activities away from the case. They can be tucked inside the case when not in use.
 
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If you assemble the system and place absorbent rags in key places before power on you should be okay. Then power it on and observe. If there are leaks they probably won't be gross ones but just drips. Having the kind of leak that sprays all over your motherboard isn't likely because you aren't talking about that much pressure. Power down quickly if you see a leak.

While I always put down paper towel under every fitting just in case a leak occurs on my first startup, I also don't power up my computer until I've done a thorough test of the water loop to test for leaks. Jumper the PSU and you can run the pump without turning on any other part of the PC. In the rare case where water drips on an electrical component, it won't have power going to it then and you can get it all cleaned up without killing anything.

Plan your system in such a way that flushing and refilling happens in a way that adding coolant can be done away from the open case. Add a drain tube and a fill tube that are long enough to get those activities away from the case. They can be tucked inside the case when not in use.

This is critical for a clean disassembly. If you don't plan ahead with a drain/fill port, plan to make a mess filling and draining.
 
I have only killed one thing water cooling for 10+ years and it was my fault , I didn't leak test .
 
Good reminder, Jeff. Yes, you don't have to have power to the motherboard to power the WC pump. Just disconnect the main 24 pin power plug coming from the PSU and jumper across any pins on that connector that have green and black wires running to them. A paperclip straightened out and then bent into a "U" shape works well for a jumper. That will give you power to the WC pump but not the motherboard.

Just make sure you never run the pump unless there is coolant in it or you will ruin the pump bearings.
 
So much information thank you all!
First off Drain tube an a fill tube seems like a necessity so I will be sure to get those.
I was looking at EKWB and saw https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-x360 but I think this only includes block for the CPU so id need to get block for GPU, RAM,Mobo if I wanted to do so? Also I was looking at a premix here to get. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cryofuel-navy-blue-premix-900-ml
Also im not sure if I should get water cooling on my mobo or memopry. Thoughts?
The kit said it includes a tester so Id run test for 24-48 make sure there are no leaks. Is there anything else im missing its looking to be around $400?
 
Yes that is a nice kit , if you cool other things you would need blocks for them .
What gfx card do you have , some benefit more from water cooling than others ( besides noise lvls and temps ) .
Water cooling the MB and ram is not worth it IMO , waste of $ for very little gain and added restriction to your loop.

The tester is just a nicer looking version of a paper clip so if you have all black cables there is no guess work what ones are the green and blacks =) .

Feal free to ask as many questions as you need we love helping ppl .

One thing to consider is rad placement in the case you want if you have room . I dont know that case off the top of my head so make sure you research what will fit where .
 
If you get a 360 rad your only option is in the top for placement. If you are going to add cooling for the video card you definitely want the 360 rad and not the 240. Depending on if and how much you overclock and what you get for the GPU you might even look at two radiators, one in the top and one in the front. Water cooling a GPU can add a lot of heat to the loop. I would not advise you to put blocks on the motherboard and memory. Not much to be gained there unless you get pretty radical with your overclock and as long as you get a solid motherboard with a strong power phase (VRM) component and good heat sinks.

You will get a variety of opinions about using colored dies or even premix as opposed to plain distilled water with a silver coil. Personally, I have used Swiftech's Hydrx premix without any issues.

Another thing to keep in mind is that with a custom loop it is expandable. You can add more components later. My advice for you as a first time custom water cooling system builder is to keep it simple.
 
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Yes that is a nice kit , if you cool other things you would need blocks for them .
What gfx card do you have , some benefit more from water cooling than others ( besides noise lvls and temps ) .
Water cooling the MB and ram is not worth it IMO , waste of $ for very little gain and added restriction to your loop.

The tester is just a nicer looking version of a paper clip so if you have all black cables there is no guess work what ones are the green and blacks =) .

Feal free to ask as many questions as you need we love helping ppl .

One thing to consider is rad placement in the case you want if you have room . I dont know that case off the top of my head so make sure you research what will fit where .

Im going to be building a brand new rig.
The kit I mentioned is it possibly too much for what I needed it for to cool the CPU and GPU (1080 Ti)Could I get a lower end version of the kit and be just as good?

The case says for top it supports 3 x 120mm fans and the radiator has 120mm fan x3 on it and is 60mm thick. I think it will fit on the top? Do you know to know where I could get good Leds to help with lighting and aesthetics? Im not sure
 
60mm thick rad might present problems for clearance to the top edge of the motherboard. I would contact Corsair to check that out or that case. You might need to go with two thinner radiators, one placed at the top and one at the front. In water cooling, flat surface area is the biggest factor in cooling power. Skinny with more surface area will win out over thick with less surface area.

Those extra tick radiators must be fastened to the outside of the case sometimes because of clearance issues.
 
Im going to be building a brand new rig.
The kit I mentioned is it possibly too much for what I needed it for to cool the CPU and GPU (1080 Ti)Could I get a lower end version of the kit and be just as good?

The case says for top it supports 3 x 120mm fans and the radiator has 120mm fan x3 on it and is 60mm thick. I think it will fit on the top? Do you know to know where I could get good Leds to help with lighting and aesthetics? Im not sure

I have a 6700k and 1080 ti, I opted for dual 360mm radiators as I planned to push both as far I could. It definitely stays cool. If you're running both CPU and GPU on the same loop, I'd recommend at least a 360mm radiator. You could also look at doing dual 240mm radiators for some added cooling without taking up too much room.
Do you plan to overclock? If not, you could look at either the EK slim series kit or EK liquid series kits. They're not EK's "high end" components, but they'll cool good and save you a bit over the Extreme kit (which is there highest kit it looks like). Even if you want to overclock, their gaming series is probably enough for you.
 
I have a 6700k and 1080 ti, I opted for dual 360mm radiators as I planned to push both as far I could. It definitely stays cool. If you're running both CPU and GPU on the same loop, I'd recommend at least a 360mm radiator. You could also look at doing dual 240mm radiators for some added cooling without taking up too much room.
Do you plan to overclock? If not, you could look at either the EK slim series kit or EK liquid series kits. They're not EK's "high end" components, but they'll cool good and save you a bit over the Extreme kit (which is there highest kit it looks like). Even if you want to overclock, their gaming series is probably enough for you.

This is what it says for the Radiator. I do want to OC

Radiator: EK-CoolStream XE 360 (Triple)
- Radiator size: 400 x 130 x 60mm (L x W x H)
- Radiator fan: EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm) (3pcs)
 
As far as the radiator goes, get the biggest monster your case can hold...you won't regret it. People only ever regret getting a radiator that's too small. A larger radiator allows you to use moar/larger fans spinning at lower speeds...and allowing for more headroom. Just make sure that if you're putting the rad in the top of your case that there's enough clearance between the fans mounted to the radiator and the top of the motherboard tray. Things can get pretty tight with thick radiators plus 25mm fans.

Seems you're off to a good start though, shocking how many people build their first loops and totally forget to add a drain valve.
 
I want to say, careful with which EK kit you go with since they added a all aluminum only kits recently. Don't want to mix any other parts with those kits if they aren't compatible with said kits because of the metals used.

Second, stick with EK's clear fluids so your warranty with them is still intact. EK gear has issues with silver and distilled loops. Not always but there has been issues of breakdowns on the blocks. EK has warned about this so stick with their clear pre-mix balanced fluid. Its a few bucks you spend annually or two before you just drain and refill with a new batch.

One way that can help you plan and design your loop is to look at other loops with said case. Google searching said case "Corsair 750D" with the key words like "custom water cooled" or "water cooling" should fetch you some examples to help you get started.

To simplify things even more, have a look at this video if you were to still have any questions.



Modmymods
or EK's site are great places to start for custom liquid cooling. Take your time and do it right the first time.
 
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As far as the radiator goes, get the biggest monster your case can hold...you won't regret it. People only ever regret getting a radiator that's too small. A larger radiator allows you to use moar/larger fans spinning at lower speeds...and allowing for more headroom. Just make sure that if you're putting the rad in the top of your case that there's enough clearance between the fans mounted to the radiator and the top of the motherboard tray. Things can get pretty tight with thick radiators plus 25mm fans.

Seems you're off to a good start though, shocking how many people build their first loops and totally forget to add a drain valve.

Couldn't agree more, if you're going to drop $300 on cooling you might as well go all out and look at TECs
 
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