WS's Voyage back to 2.6 and Beyond!

[WonderingSoul]

Now that exams are OVER and spring break is here I have time to OC again. My main goal is to get past 2.7GHz.



Tried to get this thing back to 2.6GHz last night. ORTHOS error after about 3 hours, however, it did 17 hours before @ 260x10 @ 1.4v stable. But this time I am running the HT dropped from 1040 (4x) to 780 (3x). When I was running 1040, I got three random reboots, and a final BSOD which corrupted my Windows install.

Thought the core voltage may be an issue, so I upped it to 1.4v (1.45 actual). Error in ORTHOS after 1.5 hours now....

I thought the ram could be an issue, so I have memtest86 running for 9 hours now with full test and no errors yet.

I don't know why CPU fails now when it ran 2.6 before...


I could use some big brains on this one. Especially with subtimings (yes you SuperNade!!) Thanks fellas.




DFI LanpartyUT Ultra-D
Opteron 170 CCBBE 0615DPMW NAKED @ 2.6 TDX Waterblock
Patriot XBLK @ 520 2.5-4-4-10
eVGA 7900GT @ 673/800 @ 1.4v - MCW60
Audigy Soundblaster ZS
Silverstone Zeus 56ZF 560W; 38A@12v
MCP355 with Alphacool Top
All in a Lian-Li PC-65B case

EDITED:
1/2" EK Barbs TDX
MCW 60
1x 120.30 BIPIII w/3 Yate loons
MCP355 w/Alphacool top + 1/2" EK Barbs

Pump > MCW60 > TDX > BIPIII > Y splitter w/res > pump

 

[inkfx]

How about some comp specs.

Is 1.4v the most you've run through the chip? Try giving it some more as long as the temps are in check.

 

[WonderingSoul]

Oh crap! I forgot I erased my sig!!

I will edit it all back into my first post.

 

[inkfx]

The 170 is a nice chip which I've seen go all the way to around 2.8 pretty easily. What kind of cooling are you using? What are your temps like?

 

[WonderingSoul]

The 170 is a nice chip which I've seen go all the way to around 2.8 pretty easily. What kind of cooling are you using? What are your temps like?

Max temps are under 45c

 

[WonderingSoul]

Can't even get ORTHOS to run at 2.7ghz even at 1.45v. I don't really want to push it any further than 1.45v so I am just going to try something else with my OC. Trying to get a higher HT but with 2.6GHz

Running a multi of 9x with 290HTT and a 9:10 divider, keeping my ram at 260.

Running ORTHOS now. Lets just hope it runs longer than the previous attemps...

 

[||Console||]

Some cpus just liek more volts
You are on water cooling still right ? you should be fine all the way to 1.65-1.7v

 

[WonderingSoul]

Some cpus just liek more volts
You are on water cooling still right ? you should be fine all the way to 1.65-1.7v

Yeah still on Liquid. But temps are sub par.... 45c load now at 2.6GHz

I forgot my CPU pads like an idiot, otherwise I would pop the top on this baddie.

 

[||Console||]

I dont have ne padds on my naked chip and i have the same WB

 

[WonderingSoul]

I dont have ne padds on my naked chip and i have the same WB

I can live with 45c temps. I have a BIPIII sitting in my room right now but I don't know how to loop it (won't fit in case) and I don't have any fans or fittings for it.




UGH. Failure after an hour and a half.

Anyone know why it is failing now and was running fine before?!

 

[||Console||]

I see that it says you lapped you IHS , is it flat ? if you do the razor + flashlight test can you see light ?

I really think Like i said bfore you just need more voltage to get it higher @ the speeds you want .

you are only @ 1.4v long way to go yet with a water setup .

 

[WonderingSoul]

I am at 1.45 volts (measured with DMM) where last it only took 1.4v to get to 2.6. The biggest thing that worries me, is that other users that have this stepping have gotten to 2.8 with only 1.35!!

Quoted from a PM:

I'm still working at this thing right now, but i an 100% stable at 2.8Ghz on stock volts of 1.35.

I am thinking of trying to burn this CPU in now.

PS. How do I do the razor + flashlight test? :x

 

[||Console||]

Put the razor acrost the CPU then shine the light on one side and look on the other side if you see lots of light seaping through then the ihs isnt flat .

You are using 80mm rads ? those must be small . Take those out and put the BIPIII you have Im sure it will make a world of a difference .

 

[WonderingSoul]

Put the razor acrost the CPU then shine the light on one side and look on the other side if you see lots of light seaping through then the ihs isnt flat .

You are using 80mm rads ? those must be small . Take those out and put the BIPIII you have Im sure it will make a world of a difference .

So if light is running under the razor I know it is no good?

Yeah, I want to get this BIPIII in, but I need to buy new fittings and tubing and I left my coolant at school like an idiot. By the time I order everythig spring break is over and my stuff will too too late.




Edit: trying orthos again now. Pumped the volts up to 1.475, 1.5v reading form the DMM loaded.

 

[||Console||]

Yea if you see lots of light then the ihs isnt that flat and could be causeing your problems . Thats Y I never bothered with trying to lap the cpu rather just take the ihs off =)

you souldnt really need any new fittings , didnt the bip come with barbs ? if so then all you need is some hose clamps and i figure you have some allready on the 2 80mm rads .

As long as all your parts in your Loop are copper you dont need any coolant ( water is better @ disapating heat than coolant is ) just use the deionized water + iodine and your good to go . Thats how I have my system running right now . ( I will be putting some coolant back in since the h20 will freeze if I open my window and i need my window open with -20ish deg air comming in for some nice big benches )

 

[inkfx]

I'm going to guess once you get around and past 1.5v you will start seeing the higher clocks. You have to remember all chips are different. Some will hit 2.8Ghz at 1.35v and others may need 1.55v.

 

[WonderingSoul]

Yea if you see lots of light then the ihs isnt that flat and could be causeing your problems . Thats Y I never bothered with trying to lap the cpu rather just take the ihs off =)

you souldnt really need any new fittings , didnt the bip come with barbs ? if so then all you need is some hose clamps and i figure you have some allready on the 2 80mm rads .

As long as all your parts in your Loop are copper you dont need any coolant ( water is better @ disapating heat than coolant is ) just use the deionized water + iodine and your good to go . Thats how I have my system running right now . ( I will be putting some coolant back in since the h20 will freeze if I open my window and i need my window open with -20ish deg air comming in for some nice big benches )

Need new fittings since I am on 3/8" as in my first post and want to move to 1/2". Need two for my pump and two for my TDX. I can probably get the BIPIII put in in about a day. But I am missing a lot of hardware. I don't know how I would plumb it and everything too. Size is very limited, uising a Lian-Li PC65B case. I would one have to mount the Rad externally on top.


Edit: What Masterkleer tubing should I get? And does mcmaster have barbs 1/2" that fit TDX/Alphacool top? And Y-fittings/ 90' elbows?

 

[||Console||]

90deg elbows kill flow
Most ppl use a T fitting but a Y should fine
My tdx came with 1/2'

I think you should run the loop like this . Pump > Gpu >Cpu>Rad>t-line (no real need for a res) then the rad .

Most ppl like the CPU first but it would help with the pluming . ( I have had my gpu first for a while and havent had any problems with it liek that )

 

[WonderingSoul]

90deg elbows kill flow
Most ppl use a T fitting but a Y should fine
My tdx came with 1/2'

I think you should run the loop like this . Pump > Gpu >Cpu>Rad>t-line (no real need for a res) then the rad .

Most ppl like the CPU first but it would help with the pluming . ( I have had my gpu first for a while and havent had any problems with it liek that )

I need just one 90° elbow from the pump to the GPU. Also another option I did not think of was mounting the pump 90° as well. Like this:

 

[||Console||]

I still dont see why you need the 90 ? Tubes bend