SOLVED Zalman CNPS7X to Phanteks PH-TC14PE

[bamato]

Looks really nice AJ!

I was very lucky. When I got my new black 14PE it came with 3 of the new fans.

New fans have different corners and motor mount braces. Vibrarion mounts on new are in the mounting hole instead of a pad on either side of hole.

Sweet, thanks for the explanation.

 

[Ajay57]

Yes those pesky rubber pads drops out if your to ruff with the fans, when mounting the spring clips lol!! Thanks for the nice remarks, yes those new mountings look very similar to the new Corsair fans. With the third fan you do gain a bit more, but not a lot, mine is Push, Push, Pull config. With a ambient Temp of 29c today, i am still running @ 33c to 35c Max. AJ.

 

[doyll]

Specs are also different but not a great amount.
New . . . . Old
1300rpm 1200rpm
88.6cfm . 78.1cfm
1.37mm . 1.21mm
2.8w. . . . 1.8w

 

[bamato]

I think the most challenging part of the install was plugging in the CPU power connector.... There was next to no clearance left up top, and I had to use needle nose pliers and a screwdriver to carefully manipulate it back onto the mobo.

Also, the thumbscrew that holds the cooler bracket to the base of the cooler.... people with big hands were not meant for this task.

 

[bamato]

Started working on pushing my CPU last night. I noticed that any time I failed to post or was met with a BSOD after windows booted, I'd get a cpu fan error upon reboot. Never ran across that in the past. I'd go into the bios and would notice the fan speed jumping all over the place, but it was visibly obvious that the fan speed was remaining constant. Once I started bringing the voltage up, it would go away.

One thing I have noticed already is socket temps could be better. At 4.4ghz and ~1.38 volts my core temps would hover around 54C and socket temps were topping out towards 67C. This was only working with ratio and voltage (LLC at ultra high). I'm assuming it's the lack of airflow around the socket itself. Not sure how to overcome that problem though, as I've already got a fan positioned above the cooler to blow cool air over that are of the mobo (just seems that the cooler is so large that it keeps that air from getting down there.

Also, HW Monitor doesn't show VRM temps for me anymore. I feel like it did at one point under TMP1N0 or 2. That display is gone.

Got to keep working it.

 

[Ajay57]

You could see if there is a later version of HW Monitor, but don't get the Pro version just the ordinary one will do! AJ.

 

[doyll]

Thanks for the update.

What is cooler fan speed?

I built a box between motherboard & cooler with cutouts for front fan & heatsinks on mobo. Bottom of front fan blows into it and air is forced out on heatsinks. I found keeping my idle speed up helped especially at idle.

I have also seen times when side or top fans blowing air across front of cooler intake fan would cause an increase in CPU temps. Air is a fickled witch and loves to do things we least expect.

 

[bamato]

^^Thanks, I'll have to play with airflow a bit more. And I'll see if I can update HWM. I have a custom fan profile set up, around idle temps it's in the 900 rpm range, at full load it hits 1218 (which is strange because 1300 rpm is the supposed range on these fans. Perhaps it has something to do with the splitter and pwm adaptor on the fans?).

I have to admit, I was a little disappointed with temps when I was OC'ing last night. Ive seen people easily make it over 4.5 ghz without issues. Guess I'll just have to play more.

 

[doyll]

Fans are 1300rpm when plugged into 12v but are 700-1200rpm +/-10% on PWM adapter.

OC'ing and OC heat are very dependent on individual chips.

CPU heat is directly dependent on temp of air flowing into the cooler.. and this temp is not the same as room temperature. I think the most overlooked part of many systems is good case airflow.

Often people install lots of fans and have airblow everywhere.. mixing heated exhaust air with cool intake air raises the intake air temp.. which raises the component temp.

We want good airflow.. to flow cool air to components and flow hot exhaust air off of components out of case without it mixing with any of the cool air. We want a little more case intake/exhaust airflow / CFM than CPU & GPU cooler fans use.. and with good airflow the case will only be a couple degrees warmer than room.

Cheap indoor/outdoor thermometer with remote probe is a handy tool. Twist a piece of stiff insulated wire into last 20cm to position probe in airflow going into coolers or anywhere else you want to check the temperature. Case temp should be 2-4c above room under max load.. the lower the better. Helps figure out the airflow to coolers. Remember, every degree hotter the intake air is translates into a degree hotter the CPU/GPU will be.

 

[Ajay57]

Just click on this Demo and it will give you a good idea as Doyll said! AJ.

1, http://www.ibuypower.com/dual-radiators/haf-dual-radiators.aspx#p=p1

Remember just click the reply button!

 

[bamato]

The temp probe is an excellent idea. I've got an infrared gun to measure surface temps, but never thought to measure intake temps (takes me back to the days of turbocharging cars).

I'll flip the top fan to an exhaust, I just usually prefer a positively charged case (to avoid dust in AZ). I'll figure this out!

 

[doyll]

I agree with having case a little higher pressure than room. Keeps dust out of optical drive and sockets too.

 

[bamato]

I agree with having case a little higher pressure than room. Keeps dust out of optical drive and sockets too.

That's the reason I had one of the two top 120mm fans as an intake. With only a 200mm intake fan, there were 3 120mm exhaust fans. The window on my case was dusty in a matter of hours.

I think I may try disabling the rear exhaust fan and setting the two top fans for exhaust and see how that does.

 

[bamato]

Gave 4.2 ghz a shot. This is before changing any airflow and ambient temps 28.33 (high, I know, but I'm on a time of use plan with SRP, and it's spendy to run A/C on peak times). The house is much colder at night, and I may re-run these tests again. But I thought it best to clock when the house is at it's highest temp.

 

[bamato]

Flipped both fans to exhaust, temps were horrible. Tried both fans as intake just about the same as one in one out. Ambient 28.8c

Can't wait till winter.

EDIT: I disabled the PWM function on the top fans and have them blasting at 1700 rpm and I now seem to have stabilized the socket temps ~63.

 

[doyll]

Thanks!
Not bad for 28.8c ambient.
Are you using power management to throttle down the CPU when it's not under load?

 

[bamato]

Thanks!
Not bad for 28.8c ambient.
Are you using power management to throttle down the CPU when it's not under load?

No, I was under the impression that you should disable all those features?

 

[bamato]

Pretty big difference ambient temps make, ~22.3 C

 

[doyll]

I'm not the one to say how to overclock. Just know that there are ways to use some of the automatic adjustments to save energy and get better overclock and temps.

10c drop in CPU temps is nice. Would be interesting to know what the differences in air temp on cooler intake are.

 

[bamato]

**UPDATE**

I just dropped in an FX-8350 to replace my FX-8120. Below are my results. (25.5° C ambient)