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PROJECT LOG The Powerful Pretty Pink Processor (aka, "The PPPP")

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just a suggestion, if you're looking for a satin black paint that covers metal well and easily...


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Sounds ridiculous, but it actually comes out really nice. It looks better than other cheapo spray paints. Its also very resliant to scratches as well. Its not some super thick paint and it can/will run.

Heres a guitar I painted with it...

m1as.jpg
 
just a suggestion, if you're looking for a satin black paint that covers metal well and easily...

Sounds ridiculous, but it actually comes out really nice. It looks better than other cheapo spray paints. Its also very resliant to scratches as well. Its not some super thick paint and it can/will run.

Heres a guitar I painted with it...

Thanks for the tip. Day late....bought some rattle can black yesterday for my prototype #2 pump stand. :) Next time. Guitar looks interesting. Just needs an nvidia logo on there. :)
 
I used to use high temp black stove paint for my flats (Did a polished/flat black Lian-Li PC-60 awhile back (Best case I've ever owned too)
 
Fresh off the Thunder win Saturday night....I spent some of today putting together pump prototype #2. I recut some aluminum pieces, and this time I decided to go ahead and put a coat or two of black spray paint on them...just so the bare aluminum wouldn't be so distracting. Here was the highly calibrated and controlled painting environment setup for the evening....

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Using this paint tonight....

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One coat.....

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Two coats.....

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...and then rush inside to put it together before it's even dried. You'll notice I painted one of the Corsair fan accent rings black also, so that when I get back to choosing the fan colors I can use that one.

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Several people had asked about decoupling the pumps, and this is what I'm using right now. These rubber vibration dampners come with the EK D5 mounting kit. The pump tops screw into these, and the frame I'm building screws into the other side of these. That way the frame is never touching the pump.

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Here it is put together. The paint wasn't even close to dry so I really buggered it up doing this....but it still makes it less distracting fhan the bare aluminum when trying to picture what it would look like. I'm still excited about the 3d printing idea for a pump stand and I'm exploring that....but if I end up doing an aluminum version, I would definitely powder coat the final version.

The differences in this version are:

1) I lowered the top pump about 1.25 inches from where it was last time, and decreased the spacing between the two pumps. I knew it needed to be lower, but you really can't tell if you've done it the right amount with building a prototype.
2) Shortened the front side of the "T" brace at the bottom. Before, the base stuck out way in front of the pumps. Now...I only have it extending just a little bit in front of the frame. It still stands on it's own even with the shorter base.
3) Eliminated the horizontal brace I had between the pumps. It just doesn't need that since both of the pumps serve as a brace between the two frame sides.
4) Added a vertical / diagonal brace that extends from the middle of the pumps stand down to the back of the bottom brace.

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Here is what the first version looked like:

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An improvement. And much sturdier. This one is solid with that back brace.

This one turned out to be just about the right size also. Here are some pictures in the case. Notice how there will be just enough space for the reservoir (mounted and elevated eventually) to the right of the pump tops and in the front window.

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And with the window on you can see that the pump tops are fairly well centered in the window now. Just what I was picturing.

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More info on the 3d printing tomorrow......
 
Whattttt? overclock.net??

j/k

This build has turn out great!!

Lol...yes...the following is 5 or 6 times bigger over there. Makes sense they linked to that one. Plus...CaseLabs is more active on OCN than any other forum.

Thanks for the kind words!
 
Here is an interesting tidbit for the Overclockers community. One of the metrics I track for my sponsors is the # of replies per 1,000 views in the build log. It's a way to measure the level of interaction of the forum with the build log. Overclockers right now is far and away leading this statistic across the 5 forums I'm posting the build log in. There are not as many forum members here...so the view count is not near as high as in some of the other forums. But the level of interaction has been great. About twice as high as Overclock.net and about 5 times higher than Bit-tech.

Wanted to let you all know how much I appreciate that. I like this forum!
 
Wanted to let you all know how much I appreciate that. I like this forum!

We like you too!

I've said it before (other places) and I'll say it again. OCF is very much about quality over quantity.
Projects like yours are great, not only for the forum, but the community as a whole.
 
I'm ready to spin some fans up in the case so that Jennifer can select the final color combination. Quick little project before I start that.

I'm sure we've all learned the trick of shorting the green and black on the 24 pin to jump start a PSU that is not connected to the motherboard. I use it all the time when I'm doing leak testing with my pumps. I've always done it with something ugly like this:

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The white wire above has male terminals on it and is shorting the PS_On and a ground, on the motherboard side of the 24 pin PSU cable. You could use a paperclip also. It works...but is big bulky and in the way. So, you still have to plug in the entire 24pin connector to your PSU and have the cable stuffed somewhere. If the PSU is in your case, then the bulky 24 pin cable is in the way of everything. If it's outside of your case, I keep knocking the wire out of the terminals when I move or touch it. So....I decided to short the PSU in style this time. :)

First...I cut a small piece of 16AWG wire....

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....used my handy dandy new wire strippers. I really love these. I've grown to really love strippers. Wait....that didn't sound right.....

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Perfect strips every time. I love it when strippers work correctly for me. Wait....that didn't sound right either.

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The I used my handy dandy new crimper from Lutro0 Customs and put some female ATX terminals on the end....

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And might as well put some sleeve on it so that we are shorting the PSU in style....

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Add a touch of heatshrink....and plug directly into the PSU.

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That will be a little nicer to live with while I cable up stuff without powering the motherboard up. I'll simply put the PSU back in the case and leave my jumper on until I'm ready to boot this baby. This way I can still power up and test other components....even without the bulky 24 pin cable stuffed in there.

The only caution would be to make sure you know which pins on your PSU correlate to the PS_ON and a ground. The AX1500i is not a one-to-one relationship for the wires coming from the PSU to the 24 pin connector. So trace your own wires carefully before plugging in something wrong.

Now....back to my love for my strippers.....

:p :p :p :p :p :p
 
I love my strippers too.

I like the idea. I just have a female 24-pin connector with the wire already run for me.

Then if I need to test a friend's non-modular PSU it works!
 
you know that the gpu is going to look funny in there if you don't jazz it up some.
 
the pcb side will look horrid in that.
perhaps a cover of some sort with your maskot in the middle, looney toon style?
 
the pcb side will look horrid in that.
perhaps a cover of some sort with your maskot in the middle, looney toon style?

Lol....now THAT sounds horrid. No kitties in the final build. He's a photo buddy only. Horizontal motherboards show off the beautiful side of the GPU's much better than the normal vertical layout. I would imagine I'll have an acrylic/nickel waterblock on one side....and a black backplate on the other.
 
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