Took some time to do some cable management on the backside, and here are the results. Sorry, it took a while, been working, plus its hard to work very long in this damn Boston heat:
Basically, I sleeved or covered the 4 channels blocks of fanbus--you can make them out pretty easily.
Next I "fabricated" a lid to cover the OCZ unused cable block. By fabricate, I mean I took and cut up a takeout tupperware. It once housed some pretty mean quesadillas (Bella Luna, JP).
I did a little more rearranging. I could definitely clean things up more by making some more custom cables, but I think I'm done with this project.
OK, here is a bit of weirdness! I am now looking at this thread in Mozilla Firefox running under Linux, and the pics are just fine. I think my Windows is broken again. Bloody Windows!
Anyway...
Wow, what a sweet piece of work. I like the "keep it stock" philosophy. Esthetics is a nice thing to think about but cable clutter is not a cooling issue with your rig. The final adjustments you made look fine.
Was there a specific issue that you couldn't get to work?
If it helps, I've labeled up my pic from above:
The wireless unit had a bunch of wires for different purposes:
Ground and red for a 12V voltage source: I bought 115VAC to 12V power plug ($8) with sufficient amperage (I've forgotten exactly, something like 500mA). I bought a power plug that mounts into the wall of the unit by a simple screw-on washer, after drilling an appropriate sized hole. The leads for the unit get wired to the jack. The plug power source gets spliced into a fitting plug. The 2 go together and voila its got power. All items are available from radioshack (but pricier than other online retailers).
The unit provides 2 types of circuit--normal open (NO) (blue and white leads) or normal closed (green and white leads). We want normal open so that the usual state of the unit is non-jumped, ie computer off. Which is why the green NC wire is tucked off to the side. The blue and white leads are wired into motherboard pin connectors.
I wanted to provided a safety switch, so that is wired into the NO leads/motherboard pins, setup to jump the pins independently of the wireless unit. It's a simple SPST switch mounted into the case wall the same way.
Finally I swapped out the LED for a 3mm, fortunately the voltages are the same.
navig could you tell me where you got this wireless rf key switch at
* oh sorry for bringing this thread up again i am just loving the wireless rf key switch idea and need more info since electronis were never my thing
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