• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Another "New guy to watercooling thread". But I have done my homework..... I think

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.
....Your fan master looks exactly like mine but made by Super-Flower....
Yeah it's the same one. I don't know if why they're under different brand names but I know they're the exact same model. I bought mine @ newegg.
ooooOOOOOOOoooooo, that maze 4 chipset block looks nice:drool:...... and it has a mounting plate for those retarded chipset hooks. I'm gonna go searching for more reviews on it right now :D. From what I've read, lots of ppl think chipset cooling doesn't do anything but cause head loss in the cooling system. So since this block has such a low pressure drop I'm really considering it now instead of the PolarFLO.
 
SnowRider said:

From what I've read, lots of ppl think chipset cooling doesn't do anything but cause head loss in the cooling system. So since this block has such a low pressure drop I'm really considering it now instead of the PolarFLO.


True, I've read a lot about people's opinions against the chipset block concept. It's been debated to death, but here's my take on my particular situation. Although the Zalman ZM-NB47J was fine when I had an air cooling solution for my CPU, with a water cooling set up, I'm not getting residual air flow from my CPU HSF cooling the chipset chipset heatsink, it will hardly get cooled at all even if I leave the ZM-NB47J heatsink on it. There will be airflow from my rads, but I doubt it'll be enough to maintain a stable overclock above 230FSB. That north bridge can get hot.

Yeah, adding the chipset block will add heat and resistance to my circuit, but I'm pretty sure the MCP600 can handle it and I need the stability. I've considered adding the Swiftech MCX159, people say it's quiet, but I can't imagine how a fan spinning at 5200RPM could be. Maybe the dB level is low, but I bet it makes a whining or droning sound. I already have 8 Stealths + 2 PSU fans and after hours of tinkering, I've figured out how to keep them quet. I don't need another fan. I could always buy an 80mm to 60mm reducing adaptor and stick another Stealth on top of some kind of passive cooling solution, but I think I'll stick with a north bridge water block. Now that DD makes a Maze-4 for the northbridge, I don't think resistance should be too much of a problem anymore. If my water temps get high, maybe I'll add a second rad or something, but let's hope it won't come to that! :p
 
Yeah that's basically my idea on it too. I could get a quiet HSF like that Swiftech "MCX-159" (which is 18db btw) BUT, it costs 35 bucks without s/h :eek:!!! I can get the Maze 4 for about 10 dollars more!! 18db is quiet but I'm guessing that a waterblock is even quieter ;) So anyways, yeah, I think the MCP600 can handle the extra block especially with it's low pressure drop. I'm sure you can probably get the same performance out of your chipset with decent HSF and I'm not expecting a huge/any performance increase from watercooling my chipset. Hey, I might get a few extra mhz more in the end but I'm not buying it with the sole purpose of getting a better overclock. I'm buying it because it needs to have some method of cooling used on it no matter what and since I'm getting blocks for everything else, why not get one for my chipset too? That also means one less fan in my rig to make noise :D
Just MHO on the matter.
 
Another consideration is that on the Abit IC7-MAX3 that I have, the long all threads coming out of the DD Maze-4 GPU block won't allow the installation of the Swiftech MCX159. The north bridge is located such that the all thread will impact a tall north bridge cooling device, and the MCX159 is very tall. If I want to use it, I'll have to saw one of the all threads in half. That may very well be true for the DD Maze-4 chipset block as well, but I'm using that as an excuse to get the 3rd water block! Any way you slice it, more tinkering = more fun!
 
On your fan master do the colors around the fan control knobs change? I just got mine yesterday and I thought that it would change along with the lcd but it doesn't.:(
 
JDizzle said:
On your fan master do the colors around the fan control knobs change? I just got mine yesterday and I thought that it would change along with the lcd but it doesn't.:(
No they don't. They stay bright blue. Only the LCD changes colors. You should've asked me before you bought it :rolleyes:
 
Hey Snowrider, I don't know if you are going for the DD Maze4 Chipset Block, but I've discovered a flaw with the hook mounting system. You might want to read my thread. Hopefully the problem will be fixed soon, but just giving you a heads up in case you bought one already. Here's the link.
 
Thanks GV2NIX. No I haven't bought it (or anything) yet so I'm really glad you told me that. Hopefully by the time I decide to buy all this stuff they'll have fixed that. I'm still doing some looking around at things and deciding what will fit where (mainly reservoir and heater core) but I'm getting closer to, "The Day" :D.
At this time I'm leaning towards the Criticool style reservoirs that ppl have been buying from a woman named Kim on eBay. I'm not really considering the Tank-O-Matic anymore.... to pricey and restrictive. And for heater core's I'm thinking of getting the #2-302. I need to go to autozone and get the entire length measurement of this thing just to make sure that the tanks on each end don't put me over my size restrictions. So there's a quick update and thanks again for the heads up GV2NIX.

One more thing..... I've read about some people using these "wide-band spring clamps". Anyone have some thoughts on these being better or worse than the more common "worm drive clamps"? Thx guys.
 
Last edited:
The self tightening ones? I think I've used them before for another project. If you're good with pliers, then they're pretty easy to get on. If you're bad with pliers, then you'll have clamps flying around the house like crazed grasshoppers. You could use them without pliers but that's a real thumb-killer! All jokes aside, I guess they are potentially easier to work with because there's no bulky worm-drive mechanism. It's something to consider, maybe I'll go pick up a few and try them out. :D
 
Back