gettin water cooling, but I'm a n00b, is this a good rig?

[MLMIB]

all from dtekcustoms.com

cpu block- polytopped spiral
rad.- pro combo w/ 120mm aluminum fan
pump- eheim 1048
res- only one on their site ^_~
tygon tubbing
and than some special things, like water dye and UV light, but now for the questions

would a chipset block help that much, if at all, and if so, what does it help? is it to make fsb ocing easier?

I plan on using these parts on a new board, when the claws come out, a dual board, would the pump be strong enough?

what advantages would the eheim 1250 have over the 1048, if any at all?

is the cpu block the best on the market?

any other tips? this is my first leep into ocing, and I wanna make sure I get a steardy base. I plan on getting all 1/2 inch fittings

thanx

 

[nikhsub1]

The TC-4 performs better than the spiral, and stay away from clear tops... get the AL. Cathar makes the best block on the planet right now... PM him for details. I would get the 1250... more pressure than the 1048, especially if you want to add other blocks. All the rad's at Dtek are the same, only diff is some are painted, save some $$$ and paint it yourself. Do not get 25mm thick fans for the rad. They don't move as much air as the 38mm thick fans and they are quieter. Cooling the NB is kind of a waste, you wont really see any gains from it.

 

[SkiFletch]

I'd stay away from any alluminum topped waterblock for the simple fact that its alluminum. alluminum when used in conjunction with brass or copper will corrode very fast in a water cooled system. even if its andiozed and you use something like water wetter, i'd still stay away from it if possible. if you have the cash to shell out for a block made by Cathar go ahead (shipping is a little pricey from australia...); but if not, just buy yourself a danger den maze 3 block. they perform right on par with the TC-4 and you wont be dissapointed. I would agree with nik though on the point to get a copper top on the thing. poly tops look cool, but they are prone to failure themselves and are VERY fragile. dropping it once could mean the end of it in the long run, so get a metal topped block.

unless you're hell bent on displaying your radiator, its my oppinion that you'd be much better off financially if you just bought a barbed heatercore and then followed this
shroud guide to make your own and save at least $20.

the house is divided somewhat on chipset blocks. most say they're unnecessary. I have a specific oppinion regarding them. if you plan on jacking your fsb WAY up (like 185+ along with jacking I/O voltage) and only have a passive cooler on the chipset without a fan on it, AND have really poor airflow through your case, then its worth it. but unless you meet all those conditions, its not worth it in my oppinon. I use one cause I have no case fans, and no active cooler on the chipset. all my components are watercooled through an external radiator setup. if you do decide to get one, any block will be satisfactory, but just make sure you get one with 1/2" fittings if thats what your using.

my general advice to everyone is all copper, save money by doing it yourself where you feel comfortable, ask lots of questions, do lots of forum searches , and make sure you use 1 fitting size throughout.

 

[MLMIB]

just wondering about the pump a bit now? and is the spiral worse than the maze? or is the performance on pair? I can always just get the coppertopped spiral, as long as it's as good as the maze

 

[nikhsub1]

Ski, hard anodized aluminum has no corrosive properties... you have nothing to worry about in that department with those tops.