I am looking at bypassing the whole upgrading heatsink to going full blown water. My first question is on a water system is there any condensation that takes place. Second is about how much will i be spending on a rig for my computer and how fesable is it on a TT Xaser III 2000. Will I have to mod my case much for this. Thanks in advance.
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n00b question
- Thread starter kenweil
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2003
- Location
- New Jersey
Condensation only occurs below ambient temperature, so no.
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2001
- Location
- Winston Salem NC
#1. Condensation will never be an issue if your useing ambient temps to cool your radiator. meaning if your blowing room temp air thru your radiator you will NEVER have condensation. you get condenstation around 2 degrees under ambiant temps (ballpark lots of variables)
#2 mods will be based on what parts you use. how much will you spend? thats like asking how long is a piece of string? sort of a trick question...by expensive parts your going to spend alot of money, buy less expensive parts spend less money (ballpark figure to start with is 200 bucks)
#2 mods will be based on what parts you use. how much will you spend? thats like asking how long is a piece of string? sort of a trick question...by expensive parts your going to spend alot of money, buy less expensive parts spend less money (ballpark figure to start with is 200 bucks)
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2001
- Location
- Winston Salem NC
whelp currently i run the swifty kit (yeah yeah laugh it up, but) I have a Barton 2500 thats clocked to 2.5 gig and my temps under load never reach 38 C. it runs on 1/4 tubing on top of that! HA! Swiftys are good performers I run swifty thru and thru without a hitch...the first thing your going to notice is the way the hoses connect to the blocks..sort of freakish, but works extreamly well..never had a single leak. i cool both my radeon 9600 Pro and my CPU (I must admit I did replace the crappy heatercore with a nice fat b@sterd and it improved lalmost 10 degrees to it's current state)
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2003
- Location
- E600000 - E60000FF
Well i would go custom, get'n all the parts separate will be better on you fitting the needs for your case, as far as what to get that depends on mula, space , etc .. but here's a ruff ideah of what to look for
pump:
Mag drive or EHIEM
tubing:
1/2 is best flow, and popular choice,
T line or res:
T lines less chance for leaks/less space required, res is esier to bleed/ more space taken up
water block @ < 300G/H:
Swiftech 5002 , MAZE4 , TC-4
water block @ > 300G/H:
RBX, WW, or Cascade
Hope that gives you some things to look over
pump:
Mag drive or EHIEM
tubing:
1/2 is best flow, and popular choice,
T line or res:
T lines less chance for leaks/less space required, res is esier to bleed/ more space taken up
water block @ < 300G/H:
Swiftech 5002 , MAZE4 , TC-4
water block @ > 300G/H:
RBX, WW, or Cascade
Hope that gives you some things to look over
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2003
- Location
- University of Michigan
Welcomd to Water-cooling. Glad you decided to go with the right path.
Invest about 150-200 dollars for a decent setup.
Swifty5002 is nice but RBX performs better and is reasonable priced. If you want the best, go with Cascade (you would have to be put on a waiting list) if you do not want to wait, get your self a D-Tek WW and a lap kit to lap the base of WW to smooth shine.
As for the pump, Mag3 is the best bang for the buck but you do need to fix it up to prevent leaks. MCP600 is expensive but performs well, quiet, and reliable. Hydor L30 is reasonably priced and is reliable but can have problems with the impeller shaft, the performance does lack. 1250 is a little bit more expensive but quiet, reliable, but the performance does lack.
Heatercore is the way to go.
Hope this helped. Check out the Watercooling Q&A sticky.
Invest about 150-200 dollars for a decent setup.
Swifty5002 is nice but RBX performs better and is reasonable priced. If you want the best, go with Cascade (you would have to be put on a waiting list) if you do not want to wait, get your self a D-Tek WW and a lap kit to lap the base of WW to smooth shine.
As for the pump, Mag3 is the best bang for the buck but you do need to fix it up to prevent leaks. MCP600 is expensive but performs well, quiet, and reliable. Hydor L30 is reasonably priced and is reliable but can have problems with the impeller shaft, the performance does lack. 1250 is a little bit more expensive but quiet, reliable, but the performance does lack.
Heatercore is the way to go.
Hope this helped. Check out the Watercooling Q&A sticky.
- Thread Starter
- #8
Really good advice I am looking at changing over to water cooling at the first of the year. Have to get by Christmas and tuition first then watercooling for me and hopefully i can squeeze in a couple of 512 sticks of mushkin, but I doubt my wife will go for that.
