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Planning a water cooled Haswell build, seeking advice

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Farwalker2u

Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2003
Location
Georgia
My biggest confusion right now is how to determine how much radiator capacity I need.

I am planning on a new computer build after the Haswell CPUs, compatible motherboards, and new graphics cards arrive. Probably those will have come out during June 2013; closely followed by cpu water blocks and gpu waterblocks for the new wave of products. I will not know what to buy until after the wave of new products arrive. I'll have lots of reading to do in June. Hopefully sometime in July I can make some informed choices as to products.

In planning for a water cooling loop that cools one Haswell CPU such as the 4770K (3.9GHz, 84 TDP, cpu voltage ?), and two GPUs (Radeon HD 8xxx or nVidia 7xx) of the power of a HD 7970 or a GTX 680; how much capacity for the radiator/s would I need for a strong overclock?

"Haswell will accept two input voltages: Vccin for logic and Vddq for DRAM. Vccin should typically be somewhere in the 1.8V - 2.3V range, with a max of 3.04V." from http://www.anandtech.com/show/6898/intel-details-haswell-overclocked-at-idf-beijing
"With Haswell, . . . Instead of having separate Voltage input rails, Intel has merged all into a single input.
This one input goes by Vccin and serves as input voltage for the integrated voltage regulation (iVR). It supports up to 3.04V input, which means a lot of current can be driven into the CPU. The iVR uses the input to distribute voltage to the various parts inside the CPU. You can still deliver all the way up to 2.0V to the cores, the ring and the integrated graphics and it supports a 500mV over offset for the system agent and the IO." http://hwbot.org/news/9347_intel_haswell_overclocking_fully_disclosed_theory_for_core_i7_4770k/
I would assume a maximum ambient air temperature of 78 Fahrenheit (25.5C).
I want a quiet fan setup. Maximum fan noise 35db. I will likely limit fan rpm to 1200. I have read that a fin count on the radiator needs to be 10 per inch or under and low RPM fans with attention to blade design to have a quiet fan setup.

From reading I assume that I want a Delta T (DT) of between 5 and 10.
From skinneelabs.com site I get that the Coolgate 360 has a C/W of 0.040236 (at 0.8GPM and 800RPM). If the overclocked cpu has a heatload of 150 watts and the two GPUs have a combined heatload of 500 watts for a total heatload of 650 watts,
then:
650 times 0.040236 (at 0.8GPM + 800RPM) = 26.15. DT = 26.15. I need more radage!
650 times 0.024877 (max GPM + 1200RPM) = 16.17. Need more radage.

From another source (skinneelabs.com chart of HWLabs SR1 360, 1.5GPM, 3 Fans Pull):
DT = 10, fan 607RPM, Heat Load ~260 Watts
DT = 10, fan 1004RPM, Heat Load ~345 Watts
DT = 10, fan 1400RPM, Heat Load ~445 Watts

Looks like I need two good 360 (120.3) rads, if I limit my fan speed to 1200RPM and my pump at 100% will move at least 2.0GPM.

I am looking at a large computer case, such as the Corsair 900D to allow many options in placing the components for the contemplated build, and allow for future options.

Water cooling components:
Koolance CPU-380 Intel Liquid Cooling CPU Block (for 4770K)
Coolgate Triple 120mm [413.6 x 124 x 60 mm](times two)
Swiftech MCP-35X with Res Pump Reservoir V2
MCP-35X Series Heat Sink
2 x VGA water blocks (for whichever GPUs I end up getting)
fittings
tubing 1/2" I.D./ 3/4" O.D.
silver kill coil
distilled water
push/pull fan configuration (if it will fit) Gentle Typhoon AP-15
TIM
fan controller

Is it prudent to have two temperature sensors (on the lines in and out of the radiator), a flow sensor, and a pressure sensor in the system?

I am assuming a budget of around $800 for the water cooling components (really unknowable at this time since the products are not on the market).

To give some indication of my level of experience, I have assembled about a dozen computers over the last 20 years; but I have never done a water cooling system. I have read extensively on this forum, learned a great deal from reading; but there is no substitute for hands on building.

My goal for water cooling is to try something new and challenging. I hope to get a couple more 100 MHz overclock compared to air cooling. If I may use an analogy to try to explain my concept of water cooling, water cooling is to air cooling as a Porsche turbo S is to a Subaru WRX. The Porsche costs $180,000, the WRX costs $30,000 and the WRX can do 90% of what the Porsche can do. Water cooling may cost $900 and air cooling $100 and air cooling can do 90% of what the water cooling can do. Is it worth it? To me it is greatly subjective. The value is not all in the performance numbers.

To restate my questions:
1) How much capacity for the radiator/s would I need for a strong overclock?
2) Is it prudent to have two temperature sensors, a flow sensors, and a pressure sensor in the system?
3) Is thickness of the radiator (60mm), fans (2 x 25mm, push/pull) and gaskets (?mm) an issue with the Corsair 900D?
4) Am I completely off-base on anything I have stated?
5) Have I failed to consider major issues?

If I have come to some wrong conclusions, please explain my errors.
I have a few months to learn more and gain information upon which to make informed decisions.

Thanks in advance for constructive criticism and advice.
 
Water cooling components:
Koolance CPU-380 Intel Liquid Cooling CPU Block (for 4770K)
Coolgate Triple 120mm [413.6 x 124 x 60 mm](times two)
Swiftech MCP-35X with Res Pump Reservoir V2
MCP-35X Series Heat Sink
2 x VGA water blocks (for whichever GPUs I end up getting)
fittings
tubing 1/2" I.D./ 3/4" O.D.
silver kill coil
distilled water
push/pull fan configuration (if it will fit) Gentle Typhoon AP-15
TIM
fan controller

Is it prudent to have two temperature sensors (on the lines in and out of the radiator), a flow sensor, and a pressure sensor in the system?

No need for any sensors. If the temps skyrocket, the CPU mobo sensors will shut stuff down. no sensors at all. Expensive, pretty crappy actually due to the low cost needed to sell them.


To restate my questions:
1) How much capacity for the radiator/s would I need for a strong overclock?

The 900D will also hold 140mm rads, but fans are lacking.
Get a total of 120x6 in raddage your good to go.


2) Is it prudent to have two temperature sensors, a flow sensors, and a pressure sensor in the system?
No sensors.

3) Is thickness of the radiator (60mm), fans (2 x 25mm, push/pull) and gaskets (?mm) an issue with the Corsair 900D?
Don't need push/pull with low FPI rads and AP-15 fans.

4) Am I completely off-base on anything I have stated?
Nope.
5) Have I failed to consider major issues?
Nope

Thanks in advance for constructive criticism and advice.

Amazing well though out and written. Your what we reallllly like to see here. Smart, researched, and capable.


EDIT: Dunno what's up with the color formatting.
 
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Conumdrum,

Thank you for your helpful response.

It is good to know I am headed in the right direction.
I will not get sensors, per your advice.
I will save $, and do a "pull" setup on my radiators.

I tried to do my homework and post a comprehensive "advice wanted" post. Having read many posts which showed the poster did little to no research, seeing the veterans' responses to them; I did not want to be in the unprepared group.

I started writing my post a few days ago after a couple of weeks of reading and researching. I revised, added, and edited my original post many times over the last few days as I read more and learned.

Joined back in 2003, but have not been actively posting for several years. This forum is a great resource.
 
damnit conumdrum... u already answered everything.

@op: BAM, you're good to go. did your research, planed your plan, and got those few last questions answered... (all without starting a forum posting war with conumdrum; an epic feat.)

PS: i don't know exactly what reservoir you're planning to use, but be aware that MOST bay style reservoirs are a pain in the butt to bleed. (though the 35x pump can't be turned down low to help)
 
dtrunk,

PS: i don't know exactly what reservoir you're planning to use, but be aware that MOST bay style reservoirs are a pain in the butt to bleed. (though the 35x pump can't be turned down low to help)

The reservoir that I anticipate using is Swiftech MCP-35X with Res Pump Reservoir V2. It is a cylindrical 5" top that mounts on the MCP-35X. According to a review it actually increases the function of the pump.

http://www.swiftech.com/images/products/detail/mcp35Xresreve2bhires.jpg

I hope you meant "can . . ." and not "can't be turned down". It is my impression the MCP-35X has variable speed control via a PWM controlled motor.

Thanks for pointing out the negative issue for the bay reservoirs. I was thinking a fill tube on top of the cylindrical reservoir would be and easy method to add water. When not in use, I can plug it and tuck it away.
 
The 35x V2 res is what I use. Read up on Martins down-tube for the inlet from the top , helps on bleeding. I tried a side inlet, what a PIA.

yes it's adjustable. During leak tests etc since your only powering the pump siince the mobo etc is off it's at full speed. Makes bleeding longer. Bumping the pump, tapping the rad, learning to pinch the hose and the rhythm of the bubbles helps.

Once all tested and good, then you PWM it. I run mine at 20% min and 50% max using my mobo, I use Easytune, I have a Giga mobo. I can't hear the pump at 20%. Maybe at 50% if it's 3 AM and I turn off all fans. Need no more temps are good. % does depend on the mobo, some mobos have crap CPU fan control. That's your issue to work out.

My sticky build log shows a pic of my downtube. You can see the before and after pic if you look...... find it.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=678189
 
Conumdrum,

I completely forgot that the motherboard would not be powered while filling the water cooling system. <---- Lack of experience.

I previously read that article of Martin's showing the res and his top inlet with tube. That is the main reason I chose the Swiftech MCP-35X with Res Pump Reservoir V2. On your linked build log you had pics where you used an inlet on the side of the res, and also a pic with the inlet setup like Martin's on the top with a tube inside. I'm not fluent in slang abbreviation, I think "PIA" is bad. Therefore, I assume you liked the top position better.

Did you try an inlet in the lower side port of the res? Seems like that should be close to the same effect for bleeding as the top inlet with a tube, as both open at about the same level under the top of the water level in the res.
 
Pain in the A**. I meant PITA, typed wrong. The fill tube from the top is the way to go.

Nope, just tried the first and second method in the pics. Your welcome to try tho. The top inlet with tube, and many resses are set up like this works well. The pic of the silly top 90 degree thing off my rad didn't work. I ended up putting a fill tube off the top side port about 1' long and a Danger Den fillport as my plug/fill point. It's for filling only. My res NEVER 100% fills, but every loop is diff, it's just the way mine works. My water level is always at the top of the top side fill port or a bit higher. Not a worry, my turbulence is low in the res and there is no bubbles at all.
 
Well how about that! A Decennial badge.

Something additional worth coming back for.

And yes, I'm old compared to most computer enthusiasts. I'm old compared to about 250 million people in the U.S.
 
I'm 55, I'm old too. First PC was a C64 when I was 22 ish.

That was my first computer too! I'm early into my 7th decade. No I'm not over 70; actually 61.

I moved on to the Apple 2+ with 48k of RAM, since I couldn't do much with the Commodore. My brother had to "do better" so he got an IBM PC with two 360k floppy drives and a green 13" monitor. At least I had a RGB monitor. Our cell phones have more computing power than those dinosaurs. I think he paid about $3,000 for that PC back then. In today's dollars that would be about $7,000!

With that perspective in mind, my total cost for a new system doesn't seem so bad. I'm guessing it will cost me somewhere near $3,000; excluding a SSD, monitor, keyboard and mouse which I'll reuse.
 
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After more reading, I am considering making two loops in the case. One 360 radiator for the CPU and one for the two graphics cards. I think it was an article by Martin (of martisliquidlabs.org) which suggested doing so.

I know this will require more money as I need a second pump and res. Considering what I have said before, would dividing the load lower the temperature on the CPU significantly. Would it lower the load temp of the CPU (assume a maximum overclock) more than a degree or two? An additional $150 for only a degree seems like a waste of money.

I know I'm asking for speculation as there is no real data on overclocked 4770Ks and next generation graphics cards. Just assume the 4770K puts out about the same heat as an overclocked 3770K @ 5.0GHz 1.4volts.
 
We have kinda changed our thoughts on that and it's kinda been accepted that one serial loop is better.

If your gaming the CPU will be under less load and cooler than under load tests. The less heat from the CPU helps the GPUs stay cooler. But GPUs don't have temp issues under water, since they are happy at 80C+ and under a correct WC setup like you plan I can't see your GPU temps ever breaking 65C at furmark testing loads even.

5.0 is pretty heady stuff. Depends on your CPU and the heatspreader TIM on the Haswell. The current CPUs have issues due to poor heatspreader Intel design. And reports I read (just a tidbit) show it's prolly going to be the same on the Haswell. But we just don't know yet. I guess what I'm saying even with 120x6 raddage and the GPUs at idle, you could possibly see temps issues due to the high volts you'll need to pump at that CPU. It's the design of the CPU, the quality of the CPU at those extreme levels.

But back to the main issue. Temps will be little different, in normal use your CPU will be a bit warmer maybe in gaming with one loop, but the CPU isn't under heavy loads so it doesn't matter.. Ohh Gabe (CEO Swiftech) posts a long article over at xtreme systems a few years ago, that was one of the game changers for us. I used to run two loops.
 
2 loops were used in the past as blocks, radiators etc were more restrictive than and chips ran hotter. Pumps weren't as strong as they are nowadays. I would say single loops started to become more popular 5+ years ago. You spend less money and the parts are well better made than back than. 120.2 rad is the average nowadays per chip.

When I fold is the only time I have a full load on CPU + GPU and have a D-T of 14c average.

Hopefully we'll see some pictures of your rig once all is set and done. :salute: (Thanks for making me feel young again :D)
 
When I fold is the only time I have a full load on CPU + GPU and have a D-T of 14c average.

Hopefully we'll see some pictures of your rig once all is set and done. :salute: (Thanks for making me feel young again :D)

I don't know whether I'll post pics. I'm more of a "function over form" kind of guy. In other word this setup will likely be quite plain and the wiring disorderly.

After doing some hand drawn layouts of where stuff can fit in a print out of the Corsair 900D case, I am leaning towards getting two 480 radiators ($117 each) rather than two 360 radiators ($92 each). Additional cost is about $25 for each radiator. Total addition cost $50. I was going to have a total of 14 fans whether I mounted them on radiators or as case fans for exhausting air. With two 480 rads, I'll have 8 fans for "air in" and 6 for "air out". Seems like a fan controller will be useful to try to balance air pressure inside of the case. Maybe I'll be able to achieve a negative pressure inside of the case.

Off topic:
Your folding comment reminds me of the anxiety I experience when I read about how to get my computer setup to run Folding at Home.

It was just over whelming to me. Every time I started to research how to install and setup my computer, I ran away screaming in terror :escape: (slight exaggeration).
 
We'd still love to see that done on the 900D. New case so not a lot of build pics out there. Don't worry about wiring, just say that's how it is and don't bug me about it.

Two 480 rads won't make really any diff in temps, but what the heck, you can run the fans at veryyy low RPM.

Having a fan controller is almost a requirement unless you buy two Swiftech PWM adaptors and run PWM fans and use the CPU 4 pin as your speed source.
A good 30 watt per channel 3 pin fan controller would be just fine since your using the AP-15 fans. 3 fans per knob, probably be fine with 4 fans per knob. You'll never have to adjust your fan speed. I never do. My rad fans stay at 900-1000 RPM all the time. And don't worry about flow air pressure balancing, really doesn't do anything except keep that thread alive.......... For Earthdog mainly........
 
We'd still love to see that done on the 900D. New case so not a lot of build pics out there. Don't worry about wiring, just say that's how it is and don't bug me about it.

Two 480 rads won't make really any diff in temps, but what the heck, you can run the fans at veryyy low RPM.

Having a fan controller is almost a requirement unless you buy two Swiftech PWM adaptors and run PWM fans and use the CPU 4 pin as your speed source.
A good 30 watt per channel 3 pin fan controller would be just fine since your using the AP-15 fans. 3 fans per knob, probably be fine with 4 fans per knob. You'll never have to adjust your fan speed. I never do. My rad fans stay at 900-1000 RPM all the time. And don't worry about flow air pressure balancing, really doesn't do anything except keep that thread alive.......... For Earthdog mainly........

Why only 3 or 4 fans per knob? It takes 7 AP-15s to go over 30W. Startup voltage will go over 30 W but not by much.
 
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