- Joined
- Dec 26, 2007
I was thinking of mounting my rad to the top of my case, but I didnt want to lose my top 2 drive bays.
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Project: Infection
- Thread starter Drew@PSU
- Start date
OP
- Joined
- May 29, 2006
- Thread Starter
- #22
I'll post up a pic probably tomorrow, but I still have enough room to put my Sunbeam Rheobus in the top bay. As for the next one below that, it looks to be a pretty close shave, I'll throw my CD drive in there for the pic for you.
As for project, I've made quite a bit of progress. I've mounted both the VGA and CPU blocks, tested the pump, radiator, UV lights and red spots, and the UV spray paint. It should have a good effect, I can't wait to do the window tomorrow. The only problem so far is that the ramsinks have very little adhesion to the memory chips at the moment. The MCW-60 needs more clearance beneath the two barbs, so I cut those down. Unfortunately, those two are very weak. I'm going to try and keep them on the chips simply by having the tubing pushing them onto the chip. We shall see how that works out. I've got some more coming in, along with fan grills for the top and a Compu-Nurse thermometer, so I can monitor ambient temps/water temps.
I'll post some pics up tomorrow, hope you can wait.
-Drew
As for project, I've made quite a bit of progress. I've mounted both the VGA and CPU blocks, tested the pump, radiator, UV lights and red spots, and the UV spray paint. It should have a good effect, I can't wait to do the window tomorrow. The only problem so far is that the ramsinks have very little adhesion to the memory chips at the moment. The MCW-60 needs more clearance beneath the two barbs, so I cut those down. Unfortunately, those two are very weak. I'm going to try and keep them on the chips simply by having the tubing pushing them onto the chip. We shall see how that works out. I've got some more coming in, along with fan grills for the top and a Compu-Nurse thermometer, so I can monitor ambient temps/water temps.
I'll post some pics up tomorrow, hope you can wait.
-Drew
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2001
- Location
- Hutchinson, KS
I'm guessing that you blurred out a few letters for the sake of forums decency and in actuality all the letters are there, yes?
-Drew
OP
- Joined
- May 29, 2006
- Thread Starter
- #24
Lucifur Fox: Here are a couple of photos showing the clearance at the top two slots of the case. As you can tell, I can stick both of them in, but getting a fan on the last part of the rad there won't happen, nor will sticking cables into the rheobus. I plan on sticking the CD drive at the bottom anyway, as a personal preference.
Crazy Jayhawk: Yeah, they are all there, just some blurring ( although I wish I could find the right paintshop filter for the first blur I had, it was so much better... ). I sometimes wonder if I would do better by using a PG rated saying instead ( there's this one: "Be thankful for everything for soon there will be nothing" ), but IMO it doesn't have the immediacy and wry humor that my chosen saying does. Worst case scenario, I have to get a new-side panel or replace the glass, but I don't think it will come to that.
So I got some work done...
Removed the stock VGA heatsink, those thermal tape pads suck BAD:
Mounted the new one, those two cut down ramsinks under the barbs are the problem children, particularly the right one. It always had a shifty look anyway...I'm wondering whether that larger chip on the right side there needs a sink, I don't think so, but can anyone shed some light? It's the VIVO controller, I think it should be ok, I'm not using VIVO atm....
The CPU underneath my Apogee:
And the Apogee its under:
Testing out the UV paint that will be used for the saying on the window:
Testing out the Fluid XP and the UV paint has revealed both to be slightly less "blood" and more "pink" than really red, but it's not exactly hot pink. The Fluid XP doesn't really react very much, but it does look very blood like when its a little deeper. Just not as thick, I suppose.
As for the ramsinks, I'm debating using the crazy glue/AS5 cocktail just so I can get this thing running. My only concern is that it would be quite permenant. I suppose none of the Superglue solvents are really safe for video cards, yes? In the end I'll probably wait for the new ones to come in, but I'm not sure yet, any suggestions?
So for today, cutting the tubing to plumb it out, probably leak-testing, painting the window and applying the biohazard applique, and after that, I'll see how much of this "acoustic-dampening material" I can get onto the case parts. It's left-over from my TT Swing ( now my HTPC ) and it does absolutely nothing anyway, but it's black and I'm down with that. Let me know if you have comments, suggestions, insults, criticisms, encouragement, etc. Nothing is more fun that having people comment on my build, so don't hold back. I've got a thick skin
-Drew
PS. Reading through my previous posts, it seems like I keep finding other things to do besides leaktest, lol. I said I was going to do that in September, jeez....it's been quite an adventure anyway, let's hope I don't fry my gear, that would suck.
Crazy Jayhawk: Yeah, they are all there, just some blurring ( although I wish I could find the right paintshop filter for the first blur I had, it was so much better... ). I sometimes wonder if I would do better by using a PG rated saying instead ( there's this one: "Be thankful for everything for soon there will be nothing" ), but IMO it doesn't have the immediacy and wry humor that my chosen saying does. Worst case scenario, I have to get a new-side panel or replace the glass, but I don't think it will come to that.
So I got some work done...
Removed the stock VGA heatsink, those thermal tape pads suck BAD:
Mounted the new one, those two cut down ramsinks under the barbs are the problem children, particularly the right one. It always had a shifty look anyway...
The CPU underneath my Apogee:
And the Apogee its under:
Testing out the UV paint that will be used for the saying on the window:
Testing out the Fluid XP and the UV paint has revealed both to be slightly less "blood" and more "pink" than really red, but it's not exactly hot pink. The Fluid XP doesn't really react very much, but it does look very blood like when its a little deeper. Just not as thick, I suppose.
As for the ramsinks, I'm debating using the crazy glue/AS5 cocktail just so I can get this thing running. My only concern is that it would be quite permenant. I suppose none of the Superglue solvents are really safe for video cards, yes? In the end I'll probably wait for the new ones to come in, but I'm not sure yet, any suggestions?
So for today, cutting the tubing to plumb it out, probably leak-testing, painting the window and applying the biohazard applique, and after that, I'll see how much of this "acoustic-dampening material" I can get onto the case parts. It's left-over from my TT Swing ( now my HTPC ) and it does absolutely nothing anyway, but it's black and I'm down with that. Let me know if you have comments, suggestions, insults, criticisms, encouragement, etc. Nothing is more fun that having people comment on my build, so don't hold back. I've got a thick skin
-Drew
PS. Reading through my previous posts, it seems like I keep finding other things to do besides leaktest, lol. I said I was going to do that in September, jeez....it's been quite an adventure anyway, let's hope I don't fry my gear, that would suck.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2007
ah thanks, maybe I will do that in the future, right now its not wanting to hack up a brand new case XD
OP
- Joined
- May 29, 2006
- Thread Starter
- #26
Ok, I'm at my wit's end with these Ramsinks. I've had to replace 4 so far just because I brushed them with a finger. Are these supposed to stay on like this???? You've got to be kidding me, I find these things to be absolute garbage. They look nice, but they don't stick on the ram worth garbage. This is AFTER I've cleaned the ram chips with Arctic Clean and applied BRAND NEW SINKS. WTF? I'm never doing this again, full-cover blocks all the way. I'll post up some pics in a couple of hours, trying to get these sinks fixed is driving me insane.
Th3 F4ll3n P1mp
Disabled
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2008
- Location
- 127.0.0.1
Cool. Cant wait to see the finished project.
- Joined
- May 19, 2003
- Location
- Kingwood, TX
Frys -> artic silver adhesive
I usually mix mine with equal parts of A + B + AS5, but that doesn't guarantee they will come off, hehe. In it to win it baby, void that warranty! LOL
I usually mix mine with equal parts of A + B + AS5, but that doesn't guarantee they will come off, hehe. In it to win it baby, void that warranty! LOL
OP
- Joined
- May 29, 2006
- Thread Starter
- #29
Ok, FINALLY, I got to leaktesting. Yay!!!
Still have to glue/AS5 the sinks on. Booo!!
Thanks Acid Rain, unfortunately in the Carolina's, we have a conspicuous lack of Fry's. So what my plan is to put AS5 in the center with small amounts of super glue on each corner. That seems like the best plan at the moment.
Next up, time to play some BF2!!!! Freaking finally....but as for the project, gluing the ramsinks, placing the PSU back in ( I may need some extensions, even with a PCPC, go figure ), applique on the outside of the window ( too cold for the paint at the moment ), gotta attach the neat little stickers onto the 5.25 rack, and place the thermometer near the rez ( gotta paint it black, terribly clashes with the black/red scheme ), also gotta check the mounts of the blocks, I pray I got them on well. Also gotta put in the UV lights, as well as the red spots. Gonna try and put some black sound matting on the bottom of the case after I find the best place for pump on the bottom of the case. Whew, that's a lot to do. Here are the pictures:
My homemade jumper for my TP3-550:
The fluid that's going in:
Prepared for filling:
Halfway full:
All full ( I hope ):
Leak testing, and yes, I am paranoid about it leaking:
Question for the experts out there: If there are still air pockets in the rad ( I'm thinking yes ), will they come out by running the pump or is inverting the case my only option? Also, if there is a little bit of air in the rad, will that matter?
Still have to glue/AS5 the sinks on. Booo!!
Thanks Acid Rain, unfortunately in the Carolina's, we have a conspicuous lack of Fry's. So what my plan is to put AS5 in the center with small amounts of super glue on each corner. That seems like the best plan at the moment.
Next up, time to play some BF2!!!! Freaking finally....but as for the project, gluing the ramsinks
, placing the PSU back in ( I may need some extensions, even with a PCPC, go figure ), applique on the outside of the window ( too cold for the paint at the moment ), gotta attach the neat little stickers onto the 5.25 rack, and place the thermometer near the rez ( gotta paint it black, terribly clashes with the black/red scheme ), also gotta check the mounts of the blocks, I pray I got them on well. Also gotta put in the UV lights, as well as the red spots. Gonna try and put some black sound matting on the bottom of the case after I find the best place for pump on the bottom of the case. Whew, that's a lot to do. Here are the pictures:My homemade jumper for my TP3-550:
The fluid that's going in:
Prepared for filling:
Halfway full:
All full ( I hope ):
Leak testing, and yes, I am paranoid about it leaking:
Question for the experts out there: If there are still air pockets in the rad ( I'm thinking yes ), will they come out by running the pump or is inverting the case my only option? Also, if there is a little bit of air in the rad, will that matter?
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2001
- Location
- Hutchinson, KS
I wouldn't think that small air bubbles in the radiator would do much of anything. As for getting bubbles out, the best method I've seen involves having a reservoir of some kind. The water goes in and the velocity goes down. When that happens, it's much easier for air bubbles to leave the flow. This doesn't affect gpm at all, though. It's just a change from narrow and fast to wide and slow. The amount of water moving through remains the same.
I have no idea if this is at all practical for your setup, but it has some advantages. If the reservoir is up top it also makes it easy to add water to the system.
I have no idea if this is at all practical for your setup, but it has some advantages. If the reservoir is up top it also makes it easy to add water to the system.
OP
- Joined
- May 29, 2006
- Thread Starter
- #32
Well, it's running and kicking butt again. I'm going to do some benches and see how well I can do, hopefully not killing my mobo again Right now some preliminary ( pre-OC'd figures ):
Ambient: 20C
CPU Temp
Idle: 20C
Load (Orthos): 31C
GPU Temp
Idle: 31C
Load (3DMark06):36C
Naturally, these are all with an error factor of roughly 2C, so take it either way.
3DMark06: 4162
Aquamark3: 100,013
FFOW Fps: ~25 Fps
I'm going to throw in the cathodes and temp monitor now, and try and finish up the little things I didn't get to yet. I may try the painting today, looks to be a day almost warm enough, we'll see. Pics to follow.
-Drew
Right now some preliminary ( pre-OC'd figures ):Ambient: 20C
CPU Temp
Idle: 20C
Load (Orthos): 31C
GPU Temp
Idle: 31C
Load (3DMark06):36C
Naturally, these are all with an error factor of roughly 2C, so take it either way.
3DMark06: 4162
Aquamark3: 100,013
FFOW Fps: ~25 Fps
I'm going to throw in the cathodes and temp monitor now, and try and finish up the little things I didn't get to yet. I may try the painting today, looks to be a day almost warm enough, we'll see. Pics to follow.
-Drew
- Joined
- May 23, 2002
the air bubbles will get caught in the rad and the only way to get them out is constantly rotating and tapping on the hoses and rad (be careful though, don't let more bubbles get in the loop from the res though).
small bubbles probably aren't gonna make a difference to be honest, but I'd still give the hoses and rad a little rotating and tapping.
Definitely looking awesome! I've been searching for AGES for a case with room on the top and PSU on the bottom like yours (I want to do the same thing when I get back in the states).
What grills/guards are you putting on the top of the case?
small bubbles probably aren't gonna make a difference to be honest, but I'd still give the hoses and rad a little rotating and tapping.
Definitely looking awesome! I've been searching for AGES for a case with room on the top and PSU on the bottom like yours (I want to do the same thing when I get back in the states).
What grills/guards are you putting on the top of the case?
- Joined
- May 19, 2003
- Location
- Kingwood, TX
That does look really good. Now get yer PSU in there and let's see how clean you can get it with all the cables
OP
- Joined
- May 29, 2006
- Thread Starter
- #35
Heh, yeah....
1. Don't have guards/grills on the top yet, have some 120mm fan grills, haven't thrown them on yet
2. It's not clean:
That 8-pin ATX aux power cable is a killer, I really need an extension that can go around the back of the tray.
Got a lot of work to do....the UV cathodes are on, but they really don't light anything up/make anything glow....*sigh* oh well, I still haven't got the red ones in yet. More to follow, I swear, I will finish! The tough part will be not OCing it and playing computer games ( I swore I wouldn't put games on my HTPC just so I would finish this project.....the problem arises when I get it running but not finished ). We shall see what wins out.
-Drew
Edit: Evidently the error margins on my temp sensors are overlapping....the compu-nurse says 16C while Coretemp says 15C, whoo! Lol, here's what I'm running now at any rate, looks like I'll have to do comparisons as opposed to absolutes, oh well.
1. Don't have guards/grills on the top yet, have some 120mm fan grills, haven't thrown them on yet
2. It's not clean:
That 8-pin ATX aux power cable is a killer, I really need an extension that can go around the back of the tray.
Got a lot of work to do....the UV cathodes are on, but they really don't light anything up/make anything glow....*sigh* oh well, I still haven't got the red ones in yet. More to follow, I swear, I will finish! The tough part will be not OCing it and playing computer games ( I swore I wouldn't put games on my HTPC just so I would finish this project.....the problem arises when I get it running but not finished ). We shall see what wins out.
-Drew
Edit: Evidently the error margins on my temp sensors are overlapping....the compu-nurse says 16C while Coretemp says 15C, whoo! Lol, here's what I'm running now at any rate, looks like I'll have to do comparisons as opposed to absolutes, oh well.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2001
- Location
- Hutchinson, KS
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2006
- Location
- Stoughton, MA
Always nice to see a fellow G70B build. Lookin good man 
- Joined
- May 19, 2003
- Location
- Kingwood, TX
I love the setup, but I gotta be brutally honest with ya man - those wires are horrible! Tell me the end of the bird's nest is extremely ****ing nigh too LOL
Zipties help
At lowes or home depot they have these small plates that have tape on one side and a ziptie loops through them. That could help too.
here: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...Id=10053&productId=100084509&N=10000003+90401
Zip some wires behind your bays, put black stiff foam over some on the floor, put the CCFL box in the front near the mobo tray, painted black with spraypaint. Keep visible wires at true vertical or true horizontal, fixed in place and completely straight.
Just some ideas for ya there, I hate to see a beautiful water system covered in wires
Zipties help
At lowes or home depot they have these small plates that have tape on one side and a ziptie loops through them. That could help too.
here: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...Id=10053&productId=100084509&N=10000003+90401
Zip some wires behind your bays, put black stiff foam over some on the floor, put the CCFL box in the front near the mobo tray, painted black with spraypaint. Keep visible wires at true vertical or true horizontal, fixed in place and completely straight.
Just some ideas for ya there, I hate to see a beautiful water system covered in wires
