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The "Hoot Technique" & a Pic

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Lummoxx

Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2001
Location
Troy, NY
Well, I don't think I've done it as well as Hoot, or Starfox, but here's my results! :cool:

hsfreflect.jpg


Did some evening out with 320 grit...imagine my surprise when only the left and right edges were sanding, at first. It sure looked flat! Moved to 400 grit for about 5 minutes, and then went to 600 grit, and the full "Hoot Technique". I sanded for over an hour, and still no shine. :mad:

Another PM from Hoot, combined with a good nights sleep and here it is!

I'm pretty pleased with these results. It's a lot better than it was! I don't believe the imperfections will affect anything, since the actual contact point is in an area that shined up really well.

Thanks again, Hoot!
 
Yeah, aluminum is really hard to get it to shine, no matter how flat and smooth it is. Copper I found much easier to get to shine.
 
Is that a WBK38? I think that is one of the best cheap hsf you can buy. I lapped mine too. It was only running 2c higher then my MC462 at load. Nice job!!!
 
heh, funny u should mention that. i lapped a retail amd heatsink last night and same thing, only the outsides were sanding. they are concave. dont make sense, but they are. and aluminum doesnt shine like a good mirror finish on copper.
-Malakai
 
Hoot was kind enough to send this to me here you go

Mornin' Doc;

The "Hoot" technique is fairly simple. You pick up a sheet of Wet-or-Dry 600 grit silicon carbide paper. Take a coffee cup (clean) and put a couple of drops of dish liquid soap in it. Fill it up the rest of the way with water and stir it to mix in the soap. Find a flat surface. I prefer to use a formica counter top, preferably near the kitchen sink. Wet the paper under the spigot, both front and back sides and plop it down on the counter. If possible, remove the fan from your heatsink and restrain the clip with a rubber band or twister seal so that it does not drag on the surface when you set the heatsink down. Pour some of the soapy water on the sheet, enough to make a puddle on it. Set the heatsink down in the puddle.

Now, depending upon how bad the heatsink base finish is, grasp it firmly and slide it around in a circle while bearing down on it in a constant fashion. You will feel the grit bite into the finish. Move it in that circular motion slowly. If it seems to form a vacuum and bind to the paper, then you're pushing down to hard on it, or you are not using enough of a puddle of water. There is a delicate balance between how hard you press down and when it starts to bind. You'll get the feel for it fairly quickly. After you have moved it in a circle for a while, you will see small copper or aluminum particles in the puddle. Stop and put the sheet under the spigot to rinse off the "slurry". Put it back down and pour more soapy water on it. Rotate the heatsink 90 degrees. Re-grasp it and continue the motion, inspecting the base every minute or so. As the base finish improves, you use less downward pressure and faster circular motion. Don't go so fast that you lose control over how flat it sits. You don't want it rocking. It helps to grasp it as close to the bottom as possible. Remember to stop frequently and rinse off the paper, applying yet another puddle of soapy water after each rinse. The paper will slowly lose the aggressiveness of its bite. That is normal wearing. Continue until you don't see any improvement in the finish. The goal is to get it flat and smooth. Even though you will see fine "spider web" scratches remaining, you should not be able to feel them with your fingernail. By the end of the process, you will not be bearing down at all and moving the heatsink as fast as you can, kind of like waxing a car.

Though it takes a while to read this process, it's really not complicated. It is definitely a learn-as-you-go process. Obviously, the more heatsinks you lap, the more natural the entire process feels.

Know when to quit, step back and admire your work. Rinse off the paper and set it somewhere to dry. Yes, you can reuse it several times, depending upon how bad the finish is on a heatsink. Ones that don't need much lapping get the oldest sheet of paper. Ones that are in real rough shape get a fresh sheet.

Good Luck

John "Hoot" Hill
 
Ive discovered that after you do the Hoot technique to get a better shine use "Neverdull" comes in a little blue can used for brass mainly its steelwool and some liquid shine
 
don't polish your heatsink

the polishes fill up the tiny cracks in the heatsink, that's why they make a mirror finish, but they aren't as heatconductive as arctic silver and they will cause your heatsink to not perform as well as they can.
 
thats why after i "polish" i use nail polish remover or acohol(JD) to clean it
 
My take on it is that polishing is much like a rubbing compound, making the surface even smoother than after sanding. I do believe that it does leave some polish in the crevices and that you cannot remove 100% of all of the polish. I havent tested or heard of the the effects of polishing whether using it after lapping is detrimental or helpful to heat transfer. Just do it both ways and see what works best.
 
brothernod haha no im not saying i add polish to the heatsink haha the Neverdull is made of steelwool and some liquid that helps it shine that sound better? haha LOL i can see me raiding the wifes supplies for furniture polish for a HSF hahaha:beer:
 
great job lummoxx. glad to see you have mastered the all
mighty "Hoot Technique" :p
 
f155mph said:
Is that a WBK38? I think that is one of the best cheap hsf you can buy. I lapped mine too. It was only running 2c higher then my MC462 at load. Nice job!!!

Yep, it sure is. Been running with it for, oh, 4-6 months now. Definitely an adequate, if loud, cooler. Now that I've lapped it, I can't wait to see how it runs.

Just waiting for my Arctic Alumnia to arrive, then I can start to reassemble the machine! :burn:

Thanks!
 
I'm not. It's in pieces on my table. I've been posting from my little 350, and from work. :)

I'll never have less than 2 computers! heh...
 
I strategically upgrade, so that every purchase, as much as possible, actually improves 2 machines. Can't help but have at least 2 operational machines, when you do nothing but buy pieces and parts for 3+ years. :)
 
Yeah, lots of spare parts just lying around. Ive only gotten into computer or atleast building and modding them for about a year and only learned about OCing just a few months ago so I dont really have too many spares lying around.
 
i wish i had 2 pcs 2. heck i'd be cool with having one that works :p

hey rivercom, i love the quote in your sig, i love that movie!

"The ones that run are VC. The ones that stay standing are well trained VC."
 
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