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Upgrading Watercooling

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ok so i can get these

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop...ture-Controller-Black--FC0082H-pid-11192.html
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop...Adapter-with-Display--DCB-FM01-pid-17006.html
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop...d-Inline-Flow-Meter--INS-FM17N-pid-12833.html

im not sure if i will need the temp sensors thinking about it, the res has an internal sensor, or would you put one in the loop anyway?

and would you recommend to use the flow meter? i think i have to in order to allow pump failure detection
 
ok thanks, i just thought flow sensors because i read somewhere that most blocks work best at 1.5GPM, and the pump i'm after is a lot more then that. but then remembered a test i found which showed it didn't make too much difference

Edit: i do need a little bit of help on this, if i connected the pump the a fan controller using a molex to 3 pin converter, i could run it on a channel below 30W (information here; http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/13/koolance-pmp-500-pump/5/)

Do you think this would work? and what voltage would you recommend?
 
Last edited:
when building the loop, try not to get the oils from your fingers on parts that will be exposed to water, i'd suggest gloves but you have to get some that don't have a powder on them or wash your hands before starting.

the kill coil is soft and can be molded to a tighter or wider coil to meet your needs. originally it was designed to be coiled up and stuck IN a section of tubing.

don't bother with flow sensor or internal water temp sensor; UNLESS, you want to use a flow sensor and controller that has an AUDIBLE ALARM... this is the only reason i would consider one. i'm pretty sure flow sensors will restrict flow overall.

the pump you listed is the 500 series; which is loud, big, and very strong; seriously a strong pump. Koolance sells a special power controller for it, i'd highly suggest you get that.

Overall, with what you have planned so far, a SINGLE 35x would be strong enough; but a dual would be nice for long term power. the 35x is pwm controlled, so you don't need a controller for it and it will run quieter when the system is cooler; if you set it up right.

additionally, bay reservoirs are known for being a PITA to bleed. with strong flow, most of the time the small air bubbles get sucked back in to the loop. go with a cylinder style reservoir if you can, a nice mid size one (not small or huge.)

why not a little larger tubing? they make an LRT in 7/16"ID 5/8"OD. PS: when you list tubing or connectors, make sure you list them right. We can almost assume all are fittings are going to have g1/4" thread; so you can omit this. just say the ID and OD.
 
ok thanks. the 35X i am unable to get where i live, and i have no intention of running it over maybe 7-9V so im hoping it wont be too loud (it can't be louder then my current loop, the koolance fans are rubbish). Do you think there is a way to mount one of the cylinder reservoirs in a optical bay? And do you see much of a increase in performance by increasing the tube size?
 
The only MPC35X I could find in the UK in the past 2 months or so was this. IT is a dual MCP35X which is a really really good pump and it would be the best possible buy for any WC at the moment I believe. Nonetheless, only a very few loops out there actually need more than a single pump (motor) but I guarantee you would be very happy with it if you could spend the £135 it costs.
 
at £135 its almost twice that of the PMP500. i know what you mean by noise though, it was a concern for me, it is extremely noisy but for the price i guess i could put up with it....
 
You have several options for powering the pump; get the controller koolance sells; use a power molex to get 7v but i'm not sure that will be enough to start the pump; buy the proper resistor to reduce the power from 12v to 10v, make sure the resistor can handle the watt load too, and modify that inline with the power for the pump.

a cylinder reservoir would fit in a bay area, just a waste of room, you'd waste many drive bay slots. they can even be mounted horizontally, you just have to remove it for filling and make sure it's sitting right for bleeding; but once filled and bled, it can be in many positions.
 
i was thinking of putting it horizontally if i did. I guess the res is just one of those things that until i have the case, and can physically see the space left inside, its hard to imagine how it would look. I know i couldn't even fit one in my maelstrom and that image keeps sitting in my head.

I think i'm going to have to buy the parts i'm sure of, rad, hose, fittings, blocks, fans, controller. Put it all in place to what i can, then buy the pump and controller. Then sort the res last. What do you guys thinks?

i know they look nice in the 900D demo video but i know it will never look anywhere near as nice if i try to do it
 
bigjme said:
ok thanks. the 35X i am unable to get where i live, and i have no intention of running it over maybe 7-9V so im hoping it wont be too loud (it can't be louder then my current loop, the koolance fans are rubbish). Do you think there is a way to mount one of the cylinder reservoirs in a optical bay? And do you see much of a increase in performance by increasing the tube size?
Click to expand...


The 35x is not controlled by voltage, it is a PWM pump, you use the CPU cooler headrer and the mobo software to control it's speed.
 
when i mentioned voltage i was referring to the PMP-500

ok then let me break this down to get my head round it. i know the 35X is way way quieter then the PMP-500. Using the 35X2 it also has slightly better pressure.

35x2 = £135 - only 2 in stock and i have to wait till april
PMP-500 & Controller = £109

So its going to come down to noise, and a difference of only £26..... hmmm needs a serious think
 
PrimoChill PRO is bad tubing as it clouds and plasterizes much faster. They just came out with their new line called PrimoChill Advanced LRT tubing. I see a touch of dust on my tubing but can see some clarity through them being 3+ months old.

I also as well use the Maelstrom 35x2 and works wonders. Works like a charm but priming and bleeding can be a pain.
 
yeh, then i could have it all together. i have read the new post on here that the maelstrom res is a pain in the butt to bleed, and the fill nipple can leak when tilted on its side (not that i would ever do that) but like they all said, its manageable and i can always put some PTFE tape around it like i had to on the fitting for my koolance system
 
For his loop a single 35x is fine. The 500 is huge and not that good for the amount of heat dump you get. It's an oddity. I know you haven't been here long, but no one uses the 500. I have never seen a loop here or on XS that uses the 500.

OP: Watercooling takes time. Why not wait for a 35x and get the V2 res for it. Or a standard 100mm long tube res.

You'll regret the 500. Once you open the box and go, "Where the heck am I gonna fit this?"
 
that res is quite small, i'd go for a little bigger of reservoir; though it will only be a pain to fill and fill and fill and fill it, it'll prob b fine for bleed, just lots of filling.

and if you can find that single 35x in stock :chair: then buy buy buy. have you checked ebay?
 
the good news is..... you don't have to mount the reservoir to the pump. :shock:

you can mount the reservoir in close proximity, use a barb/compression fitting on the outlet of the reservoir and INLET of the pump and a short piece of tube.

JUST MAKE SURE... when you fill the reservoir the first time and go to bump the pump, watch that there is indeed 100% water at (or very close to) the inlet of the pump. (AS IN, don't put a 12" piece of tube between the reservoir and pump; but you could if you took enough precaution) also, actually bump the pump... dont just turn it on and leave it on.

PS: with those reservoirs you linked, i believe you can use the SINGLE hole side and the dual g1/4" fitting to mount a reservoir to pump. but i haven't dont this... so some one else should chime in.
 
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