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Water cooling for under $200
- Thread starter TheThermaltaker
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2007
The radiator and CPU waterblock came in today. I cleaned the radiator and waterblock perfectly, but (yes this is a stupid thing) forgot how to re-assemble the block. Which way (and side) should the bowing plate go?
This might help. http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/Swiftech_Apogee_GTZ_Review.html. Note that the inlet is the one with the concave dot.
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/APOGEE-GTZ.aspWhen you take the block apart, you'll find several parts. The delrin top with a delrin nozzle fitting into the top, a stainless bowing frame that sits around the perimeter and the copper base.
Here is a close up look at the underside of the GTZ top, the nozzle plate is a finely machined delrin peice that snugly fits into place.
Or you buy a fan controller and some delta tri-blades. I turn my down to half and my hard drive and PSU are louder. Turn them up to full (and my speakers
) and my loop fears no CPU.You've already ordered your parts but if you ever make a second loop and you want to save some money here are a couple things you can do. For a radiator you can use a 77 Bonneville Heatercore (w/o or with AC, either is fine but one has straight tubes and the other has a bend after 3"). Those run about $23-$27 and offer killer performance.
You can also pick up parts in the classifieds and save money. I picked up a D4 pump (basically the same/a little better than the current D5 w/o speed control) for my brother for about $35 shipped. From time to time you can also pick up killer deals on blocks. I've seen normal Apogees go for $30-$40. T Lines obviously are inexpensive. I use two (one low and one high) and have no problems bleeding my loop.
OP
- Joined
- May 14, 2008
- Thread Starter
- #85
I haven't ordered everything yet, mainly because I'm still thinking about the tubing. I can't find much information on the Feser tubes kink resistance, but Tygon clear is known for being pretty much the best out there. The only problem is I need it to be blue, so the only way I could get Tygon is if I used some sort of blue dye. Would any of these be safe? And is Pentosin supposed to be a replacement for PT-Nuke, or would I use both?
http://www.petrastechshop.com/feviacuvdyeb1.html
http://www.petrastechshop.com/peg11coadb4o.html
http://www.petrastechshop.com/feviacuvdyeb1.html
http://www.petrastechshop.com/peg11coadb4o.html
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2007
- Location
- Small town Emlenton, PA
Pentosin is not a biocide, it's just a popular blue antifreeze. And Petras PT Nuke has been known to not play nicely with other additives to the water, not everything, but it does happen. I don't feel like going through 300 posts on XS to prove my point and link you to it. Just believe me.
Please don't fret a ton over the tubing. the Feser tubing is pretty well recieved here and at XS, where a lot of info is passed around. It will be fine.
For example, I used Tygon 1/2 ID 3/4 OD silver, some of the very best tubing. I had to run from my CPU to my NB, a short 180 deg bend of no more than 4". Even my tubing kinked and put a lot of stress on the NB waterblock. I had to make a copper 180 deg bend and use 2" pieces of tubing. Even that top notch tubing wouldn't bend easy enough, darn reality! Ohh there are pre-bent 180 tubing that Ian sells at Petras I think, but that was after I made my copper thingy.
Sometimes you have to just figure it out. The Feser tubing will be just fine, it's good tubing and isn't a kink happy tubing.
Please don't fret a ton over the tubing. the Feser tubing is pretty well recieved here and at XS, where a lot of info is passed around. It will be fine.
For example, I used Tygon 1/2 ID 3/4 OD silver, some of the very best tubing. I had to run from my CPU to my NB, a short 180 deg bend of no more than 4". Even my tubing kinked and put a lot of stress on the NB waterblock. I had to make a copper 180 deg bend and use 2" pieces of tubing. Even that top notch tubing wouldn't bend easy enough, darn reality! Ohh there are pre-bent 180 tubing that Ian sells at Petras I think, but that was after I made my copper thingy.
Sometimes you have to just figure it out. The Feser tubing will be just fine, it's good tubing and isn't a kink happy tubing.
OP
- Joined
- May 14, 2008
- Thread Starter
- #88
I'll go with the Feser. I like the appearance of the Feser more anyways, I was just worried about it kinking. Now I just have to figure out what case. Would the Antec 1200 do well with the parts I'm getting?
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?p=5896203#post5896203
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?p=5896203#post5896203
- Joined
- May 4, 2008
- Location
- Little Rock, AR
If you're gonna have a couple hard bends, i'd recommend Primochill LRT. It's made to make tighter bends without kinking. Jab-Tech sells it in a variety of colors and sizes. It runs up to $2/ft.
Axis
OP
- Joined
- May 14, 2008
- Thread Starter
- #90
My new case will either be a HAF or a Mountain Mod case, both of which can hold two triple radiators. So this raises a new question, should I use two radiators? And if I used two, which loop would be better? And how many degrees could I get off CPU/GPU with a double radiator setup?
reservoir>pump>radiator>CPU>radiator>GPU
reservoir>pump>radiator>radiator>CPU>GPU
reservoir>pump>radiator>CPU>radiator>GPU
reservoir>pump>radiator>radiator>CPU>GPU
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2001
- Location
- New Iberia, LA
I don't think you will need 2 triple rads. I'm running a PA120.3 and a double fan heater core and my load temps on my QX are low and the 8800GTS (G92) don't go over 40 C even running Furmark in stability test mode. I'm running my setup like your fist example, with the heater core before the cpu and the PA before the vid card. I'm sure I have enough reserve cooling capacity in my loop that I could easily run SLI or Crossfire without mods to the loop besides adding the other vid card.
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2007
- Location
- Small town Emlenton, PA
Wow! Moving up to the king of cases too! Excellent!
If your running a CPU/GPU only (I have the same basic card) and a good 320 sized rad, thats all you need. You would see a bit lower temps. You wouldn't push one rad to the point of heat saturation at all unless your summer ambient room temps were in the 90's or so.
Go with the massive case for future expansion, get one QUALITY rad for now. You'll be fine. But two MCR 320's with medium Yates turned down to low would be as quiet as you can be, and you have the extra rad for later use on a dual loop if needed.
I'd get one PA 120.3, medium Yates, turned down to 50% or so. Fill the other fan holes with low Yates.
And your choice of loop layout if you go two rads? Makes NO difference. The temp difference of the water is like 1-2C from start to end of loop. Most try to go res/pump/rad/CPU/GPU for that TINY bit of cooler water to the CPU.
Mud could pull that heater core out and still have plenty good temps with that rad.
Res before pump, then hose routing is all that matters. Then res up high above pump if you can.
If your running a CPU/GPU only (I have the same basic card) and a good 320 sized rad, thats all you need. You would see a bit lower temps. You wouldn't push one rad to the point of heat saturation at all unless your summer ambient room temps were in the 90's or so.
Go with the massive case for future expansion, get one QUALITY rad for now. You'll be fine. But two MCR 320's with medium Yates turned down to low would be as quiet as you can be, and you have the extra rad for later use on a dual loop if needed.
I'd get one PA 120.3, medium Yates, turned down to 50% or so. Fill the other fan holes with low Yates.
And your choice of loop layout if you go two rads? Makes NO difference. The temp difference of the water is like 1-2C from start to end of loop. Most try to go res/pump/rad/CPU/GPU for that TINY bit of cooler water to the CPU.
Mud could pull that heater core out and still have plenty good temps with that rad.
Res before pump, then hose routing is all that matters. Then res up high above pump if you can.
- Joined
- May 4, 2008
- Location
- Little Rock, AR
The HAF won't run dual 320 rads INSIDE the case, without some major modding. It will run one in the top and one off the back though. You can put a 220 in the top and the bottom if you run the PSU in the top.
Axis
Axis
OP
- Joined
- May 14, 2008
- Thread Starter
- #94
My dream Mountain Mods acrylic case , along with everything else for the setup, should be here within a week. I only have to buy the clamps and the filter to complete the shopping. The clamps I found are part # 5076K13 on page 249, but I have no idea how to get the filter (4448K26) up and running. What part number is the fitting that allows me to run the filter with my 1/2 ID tubing?
, along with everything else for the setup, should be here within a week. I only have to buy the clamps and the filter to complete the shopping. The clamps I found are part # 5076K13 on page 249, but I have no idea how to get the filter (4448K26) up and running. What part number is the fitting that allows me to run the filter with my 1/2 ID tubing?
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2007
- Location
- Small town Emlenton, PA
Filter? For the water?
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
a filter will absolutely kill your flow rate and hurt temps alot me thinks.
there is no need for a filter as nothing should be dirty inside the loop. clean your parts before you build the loop, flush the rad, use distilled water+PT nuke and your set to go
there is no need for a filter as nothing should be dirty inside the loop. clean your parts before you build the loop, flush the rad, use distilled water+PT nuke and your set to go
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2007
- Location
- Small town Emlenton, PA
+1^. Methinks he got it off a sticky on XS, it was mentioned to use one. I read of hundreds of water builds by noobs and pros, no one uses a filter.
Here it is, same part #
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54331
The sticky is almost 4 years old.... Looking at post dates helps. In the days back then, maybe. It was pretty DYI for almost everything back then, and possibly a good idea. Now? Rinse everything and clean the rad well is all you need really.
Here it is, same part #
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54331
The sticky is almost 4 years old.... Looking at post dates helps. In the days back then, maybe. It was pretty DYI for almost everything back then, and possibly a good idea. Now? Rinse everything and clean the rad well is all you need really.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2007
- Location
- Small town Emlenton, PA
Those clamps go to 3/4 MAX. What size OD hose did you buy?
