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suggested compression fittings for 1/2' loops

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Kurama

Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2012
currently my dd tube seems to have plasticises within like a month or two,
and that has pissed me off
so ive decided to re-tube the whole thing,
issue i have now, all my fittings are 1/2' barb type,
and in my head that seems like a big pain in the ***, if i have to mess with tubing every now and then.

the idea of compression fittings and quick disconnects seem cool to me,

but it seems that when i look at the store pages, i get all mind boggled about exactly which parts i need

i have 1 cpu (2 ports) one gpu (2 ports) one pump (2 ports) one res(2 ports)
and 3x rads (6 ports)

so thats a total of 14 1/2 od fittings, although i think if need be just the pump, res, and blocks would be best with quick disconnects. the 3 rads can be later upgraded if this gets too costly

anyways, can you guys give me a list of the best fittings for this job?
my pump is a mcp 655 (d5 laing) that says the rated pressure is up to 50 psi

i was looking at some fittings that said that was DOUBLE the rating!
id rather like to avoid blowing out my o-ring (gigity)
 
here is the deal, fittings are fittings; probably at 1/2" it really doesn't matter. fittings of all sorts have their own issues; barbs require either smaller tubing or some sort of clamps; compression fittings have to be put together and this can be a *#&$^%; quick disconnects are expensive and at smaller OD they are restrictive. hopefully at 1/2" the quick discons aren't as restrictive. most people put quick discons in a system to give them an easy place to take apart the loop; they RARELY use quick discons everywhere.

my choice remains barbs, but i haven't played with anything else myself. plus, i don't use clamps, went 1/2" barb with 7/16 tube; my pump is weak, so I'm not as worried.
 
Im just like,
Any time I need to disassemble, I need to cut my tubes off the barbs
 
I find barbs easier to work with than compressions but compressions look better. The only thing about compressions is you need to know both the inner and outer diameter of the tube. So for me I run 7/16s I.d. 5/8ths o.d tube and compressions. For 1/2" I.d. there is 5/8ths o.d. And 3/4ths o.d. tubing. You need to match the compression size to the tubing size.

G1/4 and g3/8 are thread size and unrelated to tubing size. Most water cooling gear is g1/4 but some is still g3/8.
 
considering the fact that I am so pissed off at the tubing that I have currently has seen in the other thread if you can pick out a matching set of new fittings and tubing to go with them all of the ports in my system are G one quarter
 
The most popular are either going to be monsoon or bitspower.
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30...gs-Compression-12_x_34_Compression-Page1.html is all of the 1/2 x 3/4 compressions frozencpu carries. There are an assortment of styles and colors which would go with this tubing size
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30...quid_Cooling-Tubing-12_x_34_Tubing-Page1.html which again comes in many colors and brands.

I personally use http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...itting_-_Black_Chrome_V2.html?tl=g30c409s1203 with http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...Bloodshed_Red_PFLEXA-758-R.html?tl=g30c99s809 And couldn't be happier. Decent bending with no kinks, water is still clear months later, and I shopped around because you can find those compressions for 4$ or less at some shops, which I liked because I'm cheap as hell when I can get away with it.
 
Kurama, if you have the funds go Bitspower G1/4 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD with Primochill Advanced LRT @ your own choice of color or clear.

I use the exact same setup I just posted. Have no issues with it. Its the thickest tubing you can buy. You will lose some skin putting these bad boys on so I would use some type of gloves when tightening and because of their thickness the compression fittings never close completely but that's ok. Its so tight you might rip your hardware off before you rip the tubing off the compression fitting. Also, at this size you shouldn't have issues in kinks. They have a nice bend.

Its up to you which size you want to go with. Take a look at my rig in my signature (900D) so you can see the exact size fittings with said tubing.

I would reroute the rig to have much less tubing with the use of angle fittings and give it a cleaner look not to mention better case air flow. I could give you some ideas possibly if you'd like.
 
totally man,
at first i was in my mind at least
trying for a geometrically symmetrical approach for the placement of the rads off the back and top

i wanted them each at the same angle off the back corners edge
(but i fail at mount creation and eventually said **** it)

now juuust so im not being ertarded here, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...-CC5V2.html?tl=g30c409s1609&id=v9oj7pVz#blank

that is the only part i will need to put a tube to a g1/4 hole ?
screw one part into the rad or hole,
slide the other side onto the tube,
then screw it down .//.


also i would at this point in time prefer white or clear
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...r_PFLEXA10-34.html?tl=g30c99s1614&id=5D5bHGNw

aesthetically i think that would go better with the case,
although, with all those danmed orange fans maybe ,, hm.

you know, at one point in my life i would cringe at idiots who would throw money on parts or dlc that were of no performance boost (cosmetics and stuff) lawl, oh how far ive fallen

the reviews on that tube have 4 people complaining .,.,.,
i can only ASSUME if you install it correctly the plastisicer thing should never happen
 
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Yeah that's all you need. The outer shell unscrews and leaves you with a stubby barb that you screw in, slip the shell over the tubing, press the tubing onto the barb, and then tighten the shell down. It's just a really fancy looking clamp and barb.
 
im trying to look at it in my head, how exactly does it apply pressure onto the tube?
it dont look like its cone shaped so when you tighten it it applies more and more pressure or anything?
is the method just the fact that the tube cant flex off that barb in any direction because of the screwed over piece?

ok the barbie parts tip looks slightly cone like so when the tube slips over that part with a little force,
the screw part goes over that, but where is the pressure at?
is there less space between the tubes outer wall than the diameter of the screw thread?

and that is a nice looking pc you have there man, i looove that sli bridge
interesting tidbit, the new generation cards have done away with them,
they have come up with a method of just passing the pci info over the mobo
700 nvidia like probably the last line to ever have bridges
 
I can post some pictures of how it works when I get home from work if you would like. I have lots of extra stuff in my box of parts. Just won't be for about 5-5.5 hours.

Edit: essentially the barb sticks out beyond the circular clamp. The gap between the barb and the clamp is slightly thinner than the tubing wall so it compresses it as you tighten the clamp down on the barb threads.
 
ok , so it IS sorta cone shaped the farther the screw goes the more pressure is on it
gotcha
 
A bunch of those and some angle ones sure. Just make sure you have some handy gloves :p or some extra skin. :p
 
True story. The single best part about the monsoon design compressions is the tool that you use to put them on saves your skin. My hands hurt after I did my xspc compressions.
 
$0.02
there is no difference between barbs/compression/push fittings... it never gets easy.... if you take the loop apart, you have to cut off the hose where you took it off the fitting.
You *can* get away with re-using the same hose on the same fitting; you can get away once or twice, or more... but it IS a risk
 
When it comes to compression fittings, its on VERY tight. You could probably, depending the weight of the case, hold the case off the ground with one. The metal goes over the tubing and screws in. With 1/2" x 3/4", its almost impossible of screwing it in all the way or you might cut the tubing if forced but it won't let you regardless.
 
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