Modified TRUE washer MOD :)

I hadn't even tried the washer mod yet, have been messing about some things and have some MX-3 on the way to redo a few things.

I have used washer sets similar to these before at work for a few applications, I think when I re-apply things and put a washer on there Im going to put a set of washers simliar to this one under the retaining clips.

Tiny bit of molybdenum paste on those babies they should really float nicely.

http://www.ricelake.com/docs/viewProductkits.php?productID=33220

Should really even the pressure out.

I'm still dwelling on trying the CCTF thing out on this TRUE in my head, have to see, I'll take another look at it once it's off again



There are different ones out there I just found that one as an example, but along the lines of what I have in mind at any rate.

*EDIT*

Like I said there are different ones out there and was using it as an example

http://mortonmachine.thomasnet.com/v...ers?&forward=1

I hope you can find some cheaper than the ones in the example. They cost half as much as the cooler itself. The socket AM2 system pressure clamp for the TRUE has a nice dimple in the middle that centers the washer nicely and holds it in place and the clamp is stouter as well. No tendency for the cooler to shift around as it does on the intel mount. How much trouble would it be to fabricate a custom bracket that would accomplish what the washer mod does and more? You seem to have access to fabrication equipment.

why would you want to use a spherical washer... just use a standard washer, or better yet 4 small washers on each of the spring screws so that the mount has support underneath it and the hs doesnt twist.

The four small washer idea wouldn't work. In fact it would decrease the pressure of the clamp as the washers would prevent the clamp from being drawn down as close to the mobo as you tighten the screws. Either you have to put space between the clamp and the upper side of the heatsink contact block (as in the traditional washer method) or you have to put some kind of spacing material between the backing plate and the mobo on the underside of the mobo. The second of those two methods can be problematic because there is only so much space between the underside of the motherboard and the case tray it mounts to.

umm.... i kno on my original ultra 120 the bracket sits off the mobo about 1/4 of an inch... theres no way your going to get the bracket to push down that far... your only compressing the springs further, not pushing the bracket down further to the mobo.

Without a washer under the clamp at the heatsink you are limited by the design of the screw as it has a shoulder under the head that makes contact with the nuts in the back plate that protrude up through the mount holes. When you put a washer between the clamp and the heatsink you increase the amount of distance between the screw shoulder and the nut so that the arms of the clamp have to travel further to make contact with the nut. That puts more pressure on the heatsink. Actually its not very hard to tighten the screws to their limit.

4 washers would increase tension too if they were larger than the shaft of that shoulder bolt they provide rather than the threads at the bottom. You could just put it up at the top above the spring to begin with.

I actually on reflection never liked the way the springs seated in that funky hole to begin with, I may work on that too.

So does one single washer, as people have been doing that awhile anyway.

A set of spherical washers in the middle would do the same as the regular washer mod, but with a small amount of Moly on it, might not even be needed, any displacement from the springs at all, should be negated and it would balance out evenly over the four points applying pressure.

So any differences in even the heat treatment of the springs varying the pressure they apply, even if they weren't hardened in the same batch, etc, should even out on the pressure on the CPU.

would be better than that lower arm putting all the pressure in one diagonal across it to begin with I imagine, which is probably a lot of what the washer mod even with a regular does to a degree.

Gravity would be the variation then.

yes but having a washer like that at the center would allow the heatsink to spin so easily. once your tim sets if it gets moved, there goes that tim.

MongGrel said:

4 washers would increase tension too if they were larger than the shaft of that shoulder bolt they provide rather than the threads at the bottom. You could just put it up at the top above the spring to begin with.

Click to expand...

Sorry, man I just can't bend my mind around this to picture what you are saying as increasing tension on the clamp. The only way I can see of making the clamp press harder is lifting it higher off the cooler block or lowering the backplate.

nd4spdbh2 said:

yes but having a washer like that at the center would allow the heatsink to spin so easily. once your tim sets if it gets moved, there goes that tim.

Click to expand...

With the am2 putting the washer in the Center doesn't seem to cause it to spin. There is a dimple in the center of the clamp that wedges into the hole of the washer and if you use a big wide finder washer the surface area on the bottom side seems to be enough to grip the cooler block well and hold it. Especially if you put some double back tape on the washer. This problem with the cooler shifting around seems only to happen with Intel users.

heres a pic of what im trying to say.

Thats what I did with my TRUE, I used 8 small nylon washers I got from work, 2 on each screw.....
Or was it one each.....Hmmmm No matter.....heh

nd4spdbh2 said:

heres a pic of what im trying to say.

Click to expand...

I see, so with the small washers you're compressing the springs more which puts more pressure on each foot of the clamp. Is that it?

Just looked at my TRUE's springs and there is space between the coils for more compuression. Yeah, that ought to work.

Thanks for the pic, nd4spdbh2. That helped.

A trick I have used in the past with my TRUE (and Cu TRUE) is to put a piece or 2 of duct tape across the top of the base of the hs. That gives more tension on the mount and also gives better grip between the mount bracket and hs base, making it much harder for the hs to twist once it's mounted. Just take your time and trim it neatly after putting it on the top of the base and I also cut it where the center hole is in the base so the mount dimple fits there easily.