Maze3-1 Reviews

jamesvbon · May 2, 2002

I have been noticing that there have been only to posts even containg maze3-1 so for future buyers like myself i would like to start a review for the new maze3-1 if any of you have one has a friend who has one or just herd somthing about it plz just write a quick review. Also what were the changes made from maze3 to maze3-1. anybody know exactly? :burn:

check out pictures of maze3-1 here

jkos · May 2, 2002

I have a MAZE3 on its way right now. I won't be able to compare it to any other water blocks as this is my first.

It is my understanding that the only difference between the MAZE3 and the MAZE3-1 is the addition of the cold plate for peltier mounting.

- John

Tecumseh · May 2, 2002

For some reason most of the Maze3 posts are over on the
pro/cooling forum....can I say that?

I think the Maze3-1 changes are to address the lexan top
cracking issues.

Spleener · May 2, 2002

Get rid of the lexan top.. Personally I dont like it. furthermore you actually losing a slight amount of cooling by not having copper up there. (ok probably minute) but still I cannot stand substituting form over function.. its worse than taking a 4X4 and lowering it to the point you cant get over a speedbump.. Ok maybe not that bad.. ok maybe not even anywhere close to that bad.. ah just shoot me.

But seriously.. I do not like the lexan top. I would rather have a solid *** block that isnt going to crack. Who cares if ya cant see the water, I dont. I would REALLY like to see a head to head cooling test with a Maze 3 with a lexan top and a maze 3 with a copper top. I bet you the full copper version cools better.

XiveX · May 2, 2002

Differences..

The difference between the Maze 3 and 3.1? Only one difference. The maze 3.1 is peltier ready (meaning is the standard maze 3 waterblock, but with a copper cold plate screwed to bottom of it, thus leaving room for peltier in between copper cold plate and Maze 3 waterblock bottom).

BTW--The Maze 3 is a beatiful perfect looking block. I am very pleased with mine and just finished lapping it this evening. The Maze 3's have been reported to be concave in center, and I found this was the case on mine also. Lap it with 600 grit until then center mark disappears completely and its even with big scratches. Did 600,1000,1500, and 2000 grit Wet/Dry sandpapers starting with them wet, then dry, then up to next higher grit. Took me an hour and a half, but it has a perfect mirror on it now. I don't have a digi camera, but I'll have to get pics of the lapped block up. You can see the unlapped block here:

Spleener · May 3, 2002

It IS very pretty. I give it 5 stars for aesthetic design.

JFettig · May 3, 2002

Spleener said:
Get rid of the lexan top.. Personally I dont like it. furthermore you actually losing a slight amount of cooling by not having copper up there. (ok probably minute) but still I cannot stand substituting form over function.. its worse than taking a 4X4 and lowering it to the point you cant get over a speedbump.. Ok maybe not that bad.. ok maybe not even anywhere close to that bad.. ah just shoot me.

But seriously.. I do not like the lexan top. I would rather have a solid *** block that isnt going to crack. Who cares if ya cant see the water, I dont. I would REALLY like to see a head to head cooling test with a Maze 3 with a lexan top and a maze 3 with a copper top. I bet you the full copper version cools better.

unscrew the top, make one out of copper and soldier it in there

Tecumseh · May 3, 2002

The maze3 has undergone some changes to the Lexan top.
There have been cracks reported on the older version around
both the barbs and the screws which hold the top on. The
screws which hold the top on are no longer counter-sunk.

It no longer seems to be a problem. DD is taking good care
of customers, as usual.

If you still want an all metal design, maskedgeek is right.
Just unscrew it and use it as a template for an aluminum or
copper top. Since a copper top wont contribute much
cooling, but a lot of peace of mind, there is no reason to
solder it on. Let the O-ring do its job. This would be
an easy mod. I'd love to see pictures of a good conversion.

JFettig · May 3, 2002

those O rings can only stand 85psi... the soldiered tops can stand like 1000

Tecumseh · May 3, 2002

maskedgeek said:
those O rings can only stand 85psi... the soldiered tops can stand like 1000

That's cool to know. Who has a pump that puts out
even close to 85psi? It would have to be a positive
displacement type, wouldn't it?

res0r9lm · May 3, 2002

maskedgeek said:
those O rings can only stand 85psi... the soldiered tops can stand like 1000

I wonder how much psi most hoses can handle?

JFettig · May 3, 2002

im not sure, but those are the numbers....

plague · May 3, 2002

maskedgeek said:
those O rings can only stand 85psi... the soldiered tops can stand like 1000

thats one of the first things i noticed about the maze3, all the old mazes said they were tested to 1000 psi, there was even a video that was really cool showing them finally exploding

. then i saw this lexan thing that could withstand 85psi... sure you probably wont ever put that much pressure on it, but it just makes it look weaker.

JFettig · May 3, 2002

hehe i wanna see that video!

also it isnt lexian its lucite, there is a diff, if it was lexian it would be SOOOO much better! lexian dont crack

jamesvbon · May 3, 2002

so............

so did maze3.1 improve aslot or does it not make much difference also i bought a maze3 not 3.1 can i use a peltier? and how big of peltier do i need for a system with amb temp 77f and a proc(amd athlon xp1700) at about 100f in bios not running crap. should i upgrade to a maze 3.1 or should i just put a peltier on the maze 3 also i bought a heater core is that what you would sugest or if i go to a peltier to i need a better radiater? thnx for alll yalls help(yes i live in texas)

XiveX · May 3, 2002

Yes, the maze 3.1 is NO DIFFERENT than the Maze 3 EXCEPT that it has a cold plate so the block can support a peltier as well. You can use up to ONE 50mmx50mm peltier element if you wish.

A heatercore would be used for cooling your water flow in the tubing. It will do fine.

Understand that if you use a peltier, you will be forced to deal with condensation issues and find a solution to prevent it.

Check these out here:
http://www.octools.com/articles/socket_condensation/intro.html

http://www.octools.com/articles/condensation/howto.html

http://www.octools.com/howto2/howto2.html

Maze3-1 Reviews

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