- Joined
- Jan 10, 2012
two on custom loops
one on a ghetto rigged 920 and ghetto rigged zalman resivater
one on a ghetto rigged 920 and ghetto rigged zalman resivater
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FEATURED [2013] What kind of cooling do you use?
- Thread starter MattNo5ss
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Location
- USA
- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Location
- USA
Going on my third year with my h100. It works pretty good for the most part but it's making a bit of a grumble sound. It's kind if annoying because my computer is pretty quiet these days
Now would be the time to keep an eye on it if you noticed a new sound coming from it. Check and see if it still has its warranty.
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2005
- Location
- Dallas, TX
I agree whole heartedly. It would be entirely different if the AIO systems were comparable to a 'real' water cooling system, but they aren't. They don't perform as well, nothing can be added to the loop, and I would think the failure rates are much higher than a high end WC system with dual pumps and the whole bit. They are basically a glorified detatched heatsink. They're a great invention, and I'm all for their mainstream adoption, but I don't consider it water cooling.
Besides, there is some pride to assembling a water cooling system and verifying there are no leaks, and quite frankly having the balls to do so. It requires no balls to install a sealed unit that's basically guaranteed not to leak.
I've been running water cooling for many years now. I totally fried a system back about 5 years ago because of dumb mistakes (apparently, when you need to fill the loop and don't have anything to fill it with, running tap water temporarily is a VERY bad idea), but I've learned from those mistakes. This goes back to the comment about having the balls to do water cooling
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2011
- Location
- Upstate SC
I had a custom CPU-only loop but swapped back to my EVGA Supercooler since the externally mounted 120.3 rad was a pain at uni
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2013
As an update, my PC is still air cooled, but once I finish my current project (heat pump water heater), the air in the room will be cooled by R433b, which is in turn cooled by water. Does that mean I will be using water cooling? Or is it phase change because of the R433b, even though it gets nowhere near freezing?
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2005
- Location
- Dallas, TX
Other, definitely other lol
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2013
Can't find R20 refrigerant? That stuff cools better than the Arctic! 
Careful though, R433A runs at very high pressure <410 PSI in some cases..
But you already knew that right?
Careful though, R433A runs at very high pressure <410 PSI in some cases..
But you already knew that right?
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2013
R433b operates at much lower pressures than R410a, actually a little less than R22. ( http://i39.tinypic.com/r7sk0j.jpg ) In my design, the highest pressure I have seen was just under 300 PSI when it's set for 140F (dishwashing mode). The compressor was originally designed for R410a, so that amount of pressure is no problem. (Just watch the discharge temperature!) It operates at about 200 PSI normally and the high side cutout is set for 325 PSI. The low side pressure is also lower for a given evaporating temperature, which means that I have the option of running the evaporator fans up high to decrease the delta T (and therefore boost efficiency) without overloading the compressor.Can't find R20 refrigerant? That stuff cools better than the Arctic!
Careful though, R433A runs at very high pressure <410 PSI in some cases..
But you already knew that right?
Now, for benching direct die, it doesn't work quite as well as R410a since its boiling point isn't quite as low. But for long term use, it's much gentler on the compressor and more efficient. Actually getting to the point where the difference matters is problematic for long term use since the compression ratio starts becoming large and discharge temperature shoots up.
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2013
Good info!
Thanks!My neigbour is a plumber, he also does HVAC so he know how good old R20 is compared to the "crap" they throw in R410A and such....
My dad still has some R20 I think, he has lots of R134A too. (He's a licensed diesel mechanic so he has some left over
)Want some?
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2013
No need, R433b is better than R22. Discharge pressure is slightly lower, suction pressure is close enough that a common R22 TXV works with a little tweaking, discharge temperature is much lower, it doesn't harm the ozone if it leaks, and it doesn't even contribute much to global warming.
And yeah, it totally beats up R134a for refrigeration. Too bad it's not really practical to retrofit a home refrigerator to use that stuff... There's also R433a and R433c that are apparently tuned to work a little better for low temp applications, but I haven't worked with those.
BTW, the SEER ratings don't account for dehumidification (actually, dehumidification counts against it!) and that's where they hide the inefficiency of R410a. My old house had a 13 SEER R22 unit that dehumidified very well, while my current house has two 14 SEER R410a units that don't dehumidify very well. That's part of the reason I'm building a supplementary unit with an ejector and two stage evaporator designed to dehumidify well. I plan on doing the "Davuluri Treatment" on the central units in the future (or doing some other mods), just have to wait for the warranty to run out...
And yeah, it totally beats up R134a for refrigeration. Too bad it's not really practical to retrofit a home refrigerator to use that stuff... There's also R433a and R433c that are apparently tuned to work a little better for low temp applications, but I haven't worked with those.
BTW, the SEER ratings don't account for dehumidification (actually, dehumidification counts against it!) and that's where they hide the inefficiency of R410a. My old house had a 13 SEER R22 unit that dehumidified very well, while my current house has two 14 SEER R410a units that don't dehumidify very well. That's part of the reason I'm building a supplementary unit with an ejector and two stage evaporator designed to dehumidify well. I plan on doing the "Davuluri Treatment" on the central units in the future (or doing some other mods), just have to wait for the warranty to run out...
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2013
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2013
- Location
- Ottawa, ON
Water cooling all the way. It's expensive but I'm glad as hell I started using it.
I just love when you go from 120-125c on load on stock to 35-40c on load overclocked.
Half of your case is over 50c too.
Those were also, with crap tons of well placed fans and going through tons of heatsinks. Best case zalman heatsink I got with my processor was 65c on load on stock and I paid $85 for it. My water kit was $230 + water costs. Spent way more than that in heatsinks trying to find the best one. So yeah, water all the way.
lol.
I just love when you go from 120-125c on load on stock to 35-40c on load overclocked.
Half of your case is over 50c too.
Those were also, with crap tons of well placed fans and going through tons of heatsinks. Best case zalman heatsink I got with my processor was 65c on load on stock and I paid $85 for it. My water kit was $230 + water costs. Spent way more than that in heatsinks trying to find the best one. So yeah, water all the way.
lol.
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2009
- Location
- Clearwater FL
I'm still using this old 6 pound thing from a few years ago, with Noctua fans on it and have been tempted to try out a AIO.
I've resisted the temptation on that one over time I guess.
More tempted to try one of these out but probably won't till a complete rebuild someday.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=3#scrollFullInfo
Probably not even then by the time I rebuild this thing will be others out.
*edit* hadn't even looked at the reviews here on air cooling in awhile, evidently from reading newegg reviews you'd all ready rated it high
I've resisted the temptation on that one over time I guess.
More tempted to try one of these out but probably won't till a complete rebuild someday.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=3#scrollFullInfo
Probably not even then by the time I rebuild this thing will be others out.
*edit* hadn't even looked at the reviews here on air cooling in awhile, evidently from reading newegg reviews you'd all ready rated it high
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- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Location
- USA
Welcome to OCFs!
Welcome to the watercooling world. Hope you read enough information so you don't get growth or corrosion.
120c-125c?! That's BAD BAD temps. I would never go past 80c on an intel CPU and 95c-100c depending on the GPU.Also for $35 you get one of the best air coolers in the market. CM Hyper 212 EVO
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2013
- Location
- Ottawa, ON
Welcome to OCFs!
Welcome to the watercooling world. Hope you read enough information so you don't get growth or corrosion.
Also for $35 you get one of the best air coolers in the market. CM Hyper 2b12 EVO
Thank you for the welcome! I love these forums. I think I have done sufficient research on my part I've been running my build on water for 4 months now and.. it's just awesome. My only complaint is that it gets expensive.
I think it was bad luck on my part that my CPU ran so hot I never had a CPU run that hot on load in my life. Also used to have 80c load GPU temps I got them lowered to 50c with decent air cooling but if I upgrade to 290x sli like I want to in the next couple weeks I'm getting blocks for them.
- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Location
- USA
Don't we all say. lol Most of us could've build a high end rig out of the money spent on H20.You probably shed some life span out of it but as long as its working you should be fine.
As for the R9 290x, they run really hot. I would put them on water and make sure you have enough heat surface. I wouldn't go less than 120.2 per 290x. They already run 90c-95c on average I hear on air in full load.
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