Advise a watercooling noob :-)

[Conumdrum]

quoted from performance-pcs.com:

"A Note of Caution! the MCP355 generates higher audible noise than the MCP350 and MCP655 pumps. This product is not recommended for users seeking silent operations."

so maybe I should go with the 655 =)

I have run a D5 vario and 355s. They are both very quiet. They are NOTHING like a powerful aquaium pump or any other pump. Both pumps are very very quiet. The d5 is a bit quiter, but whats the diff when they are already quiet?

 

[thinkpol]

Update:
CPU Block: EK Supreme HF
GPU Block: EK-FC5870 Nickel V2
Rad: XSPC RX480 (4x gentle typhoon)
Tubes: Tygon R-3603 3/8" ID (8 foot)
Pump: Swiftech MCP655 + EK X-Top Rev.2
Res: Lund Pomplex


The AC Kryos block looks good but it doesnt look like they're selling it in the US (yet?). Confused about how the fitting sizes would convert from metric/US. Afraid of making it too complicated, trying to keep my first experience as simple as possible
Anyone know anything about the Lund Pomplex? http://www.thewatercoolingshop.co.uk/LUND-Pom-Plex-Reservoir.html

 

[m0r7if3r]

Fittings should all be bspp g1/4 on everything watercooling except for the thermochill radiators. Regardless, you'd probably end up spending a bunch on the kryos because, as you said, it hasn't really made it to the US in any significant capacity. As for the res, as long as there aren't breakage issues, reses are really just aesthetic (I mean, not entirely, you do raise the total thermal capacity of your loop with a larger res, so it takes longer to heat to equilibrium, but for all intents and purposes, they're the same), so you can pick WHATEVAH you want!!! Murdermods has a cool one that floats and there are some pretty schwe (just made that word up) lookin ones here. Alternatively, there's always the bayres.

 

[thinkpol]

Fittings should all be bspp g1/4 on everything watercooling except for the thermochill radiators. Regardless, you'd probably end up spending a bunch on the kryos because, as you said, it hasn't really made it to the US in any significant capacity. As for the res, as long as there aren't breakage issues, reses are really just aesthetic (I mean, not entirely, you do raise the total thermal capacity of your loop with a larger res, so it takes longer to heat to equilibrium, but for all intents and purposes, they're the same), so you can pick WHATEVAH you want!!! Murdermods has a cool one that floats and there are some pretty schwe (just made that word up) lookin ones here. Alternatively, there's always the bayres.

Why does the pomplex have the G3/8" thread on the top?
"The top of the reservoir is equipped with a G3/8" thread and a suitable screw-in seal plug."

Just an extra for thermochill rad users?

 

[m0r7if3r]

Why does the pomplex have the G3/8" thread on the top?
"The top of the reservoir is equipped with a G3/8" thread and a suitable screw-in seal plug."

Just an extra for thermochill rad users?

Tbh, I have absolutely no idea, the g3/8 is just a thread spacing, so its nothing to do with compatability, cause you just run it to a barb...maybe they just FELT like it or something, I can't think of a single good reason.

 

[thinkpol]

http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2009/murderbox/009/murderbox.htm
shouldn't he be using clamps on the barb fittings? or is he using the tube you soak in hot water (to get it to expand) to seal it on tightly?
also, what size is that resevoir? is it the EK multioption?

 

[Conumdrum]

The top port of most reses is just for filling. No reason to add a barb in many cases. Some do though. In that case, you can buy a G3/8 male to G1/4 adaptor to use a normal barb.

Yes, everyone should use clamps etc. Your looking at a PRO's build though. They know the dangers and have enough experiance, spare parts etc to get by not using any hose clamping method.

7/16" on a 1/2" barb is pretty tight. Not tight enough for the regular folks like you and me though. I use hose/screw clamps. I'm not after bling. Performance is my game.

 

[thinkpol]

The top port of most reses is just for filling. No reason to add a barb in many cases. Some do though. In that case, you can buy a G3/8 male to G1/4 adaptor to use a normal barb.

Yes, everyone should use clamps etc. Your looking at a PRO's build though. They know the dangers and have enough experiance, spare parts etc to get by not using any hose clamping method.

7/16" on a 1/2" barb is pretty tight. Not tight enough for the regular folks like you and me though. I use hose/screw clamps. I'm not after bling. Performance is my game.

So, for a new guy like me that IS after the bling.. think I should go with compression fittings? I hear they're more idiot proof

 

[Tazman29]

You may want to look at some of these sites as well. Their prices are a little better than frozencpu on a bunch of things.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/

http://www.crazypc.com/

 

[thinkpol]

You may want to look at some of these sites as well. Their prices are a little better than frozencpu on a bunch of things.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/

http://www.crazypc.com/

Yeah, I'm just using frozencpu to approximate overall cost (because they have the widest selection to my knowledge). When the time comes to purchase I'll shop around for the cheapest price on each individual part. =)

 

[m0r7if3r]

you may wanna cross reference with performance-pcs, because I've found their selection to be quite expansive. Also, make sure you check jab-tech, best prices around, but the selection is not so good.

 

[thinkpol]

need tips on color scheming! i've got red accents going right now (rampage III, g.skill sticks, red sata sleeves and small sized sleeves).

think I should get the bitspower black compression fittings with black tubing?
black fittings with white tubing?
black/silver? white/silver?

the lund pomplex is black, there is also an aluminum one (kinda overkill imo though).

if I do go with white tubing I'll probably order some white sleeving to go with it (need to tie it in elsewhere rather than having it feel random).

 

[m0r7if3r]

when you finish, just get a can of the spray paint you want and spray the entire board and all teh components with it (DON'T ACTUALLY DO THIS, TOTTTTTALLLY KIDDING).

You seem to have a black and red them going on...you could go with black or red fittings, but your reds are all flat reds and the compression fittings will be shiny red, chromed black goes better with a dull black than a chromed red goes with a flat (or is it metallic...looks flat) red. Basically you've gotta try to keep your tones of a single color to 1 or 2 flavors, and you probably won't be able to match the RGIII to the ram exactly, but blacks tend to be pretty universal. Now that that's out of the way, you could go with black tubing and black fittings and be pretty ok. Tubing should probably be solid colored, the tinted transparent stuff wouldn't match as it's a softer look and the look of the rest is rather hard...white MIGHT work, but it'd really be a gamble. As for the res, DON'T USE ALUMINUM, IT WILL CAUSE GALVANIC CORROSION IN YOUR LOOP. Just put some red led's behind the res and light the water up red.

Hope this helps some and that it didn't ramble too much for you to understand.

 

[thinkpol]

when you finish, just get a can of the spray paint you want and spray the entire board and all teh components with it (DON'T ACTUALLY DO THIS, TOTTTTTALLLY KIDDING).

You seem to have a black and red them going on...you could go with black or red fittings, but your reds are all flat reds and the compression fittings will be shiny red, chromed black goes better with a dull black than a chromed red goes with a flat (or is it metallic...looks flat) red. Basically you've gotta try to keep your tones of a single color to 1 or 2 flavors, and you probably won't be able to match the RGIII to the ram exactly, but blacks tend to be pretty universal. Now that that's out of the way, you could go with black tubing and black fittings and be pretty ok. Tubing should probably be solid colored, the tinted transparent stuff wouldn't match as it's a softer look and the look of the rest is rather hard...white MIGHT work, but it'd really be a gamble. As for the res, DON'T USE ALUMINUM, IT WILL CAUSE GALVANIC CORROSION IN YOUR LOOP. Just put some red led's behind the res and light the water up red.

Hope this helps some and that it didn't ramble too much for you to understand.

what about the black fittings with red tubing? you think the semi transparent tubing would look bad? btw, do i want 3/8 ID 5/8 OD or 1/2 OD?


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...on_Fitting_BP-MBRCPF-CC3.html?tl=g30c409s1032
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1..._Black_BP-MB90R2LCPF-CC3.html?tl=g30c409s1032

with

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7...8_OD_with_18_Wall_-_UV_Red.html?tl=g30c99s171


here's a picture of the primochill tubing, it looks pretty solid:
http://www.blastingsite.com/gallery/images/c6.jpg

I'm liking the contrast of the black case with red tubing. I won't have as much visible/messy tubing as this guy, mine will be routed like the murderbox I linked before (with the inverted mobo).
I'll probably just end up with black/black because it's a safer bet. i really want to keep it subtle.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/iast225mure.html
I like this res. Thoughts? Will I have to clean my system more often if I use something like the Primochill "blood red" dye bomb?

 

[m0r7if3r]

You could get the red o-rings for the fittings for a red accent in the black, may use some dark red (crimsonish) antikink coil.

if you want red tubing, you should also try the feser tubing.

As for the fluid, don't use anything but distilled water and PTNuke, maybe a silver killcoil, anything else will gunk up your loop and ruin your performance. Just use colored tubing and either hide your res or put an LED behind it.

 

[Conumdrum]

Yeah, I'm just using frozencpu to approximate overall cost (because they have the widest selection to my knowledge). When the time comes to purchase I'll shop around for the cheapest price on each individual part. =)

Take shipping into account. It will add up.

 

[m0r7if3r]

oh, just saw the tubing thing

1/2"id 3/4"od should suffice.

 

[Hsnopi]

um...pics?
Um..nm i am stupid. I see the links.

 

[thinkpol]

You could get the red o-rings for the fittings for a red accent in the black, may use some dark red (crimsonish) antikink coil.

if you want red tubing, you should also try the feser tubing.

As for the fluid, don't use anything but distilled water and PTNuke, maybe a silver killcoil, anything else will gunk up your loop and ruin your performance. Just use colored tubing and either hide your res or put an LED behind it.

I think I've decided on a greyscale color scheme with red accents.
What do you think?

Sleeving
Black/white sata: http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=60_94_172&products_id=1443
Black/white small: http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=60_94_172&products_id=1442
MDPC gray: http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve/sleeve-small-grey.htm
(I have MDPC black as well)

Tubes
Feser Silver: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8..._Anti-Kink_Tubing_-_Silver.html?tl=g30c99s171
**OR**
Tygon Silver: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ID_12_OD_-_Silver_AS600027.html?tl=g30c99s171


Fittings
Bitspower Black (3/8" ID 1/2" OD): http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ting_BP-MBRCPF-CC2.html?tl=g30c409s1032#blank

I've heard that 1/2" ID doesn't fit well on the EK HF.
And of course the Gentle Typhoons all around which are a light gray.

 

[Hsnopi]

fyi if you use pliers on the bitspower the color will chip off. so either use rubber or hand tighten only.