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Advise a watercooling noob :-)

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fyi if you use pliers on the bitspower the color will chip off. so either use rubber or hand tighten only.

Thanks for the tip :thup:

I wanted the "sparkle" black which is more of a dark silver finish but it's hard to find, especially in 3/8" ID 1/2" OD.
 
1/2" might have some issue with compression fittings, but it should be fine with 45deg rotary fittings and compression fittings...the larger tubing gives better temps for the same price (plus the fittings :S). Also consider some red o-rings for further accents, they're cheap. I think the color scheme should work, but to be honest I don't think I've seen a watercooling setup ever look truly bad...and that silver tubing looks sweet.
 
what about using 1/2" ID barbs (rather than compression) with 3/8" ID hose?
 
It's a royal pain to do, you have to dip the tubing in nearly boiling water to make it very soft, then stretch it over...it can look good, but you're still losing the benefits of 1/2" tubing
 
It's a royal pain to do, you have to dip the tubing in nearly boiling water to make it very soft, then stretch it over...it can look good, but you're still losing the benefits of 1/2" tubing

do you have any links to tests that compare 3/8 ID vs. 1/2" ID tubing?
I think I remember reading that tube size doesn't really make a difference.
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=515368
the only thing I took from reading that thread was that it really doesn't matter.
 
See, what I got from that is that it makes a ton of difference, though that difference is primarily flow
 
It didn't reduce temps in his situation, but it might in yours, the magic number is 1.5gpm, which is about where his lowest flow one was if my quick mental conversion is right
 
veryroughlol.jpg


here's a rough (MSPAINT!) sketch of the loop. which #s will I need 90 degree rotary angles for? probably going to use a 45 degree from the res to pump. the red dotted line is the midplate in the TJ07

PS I know reservoir is misspelled.
 
probably 45's on the cpu and that's it, everything else should have spacing...that said, it may not fit and its very case by case, so you may find yourself needing more 45's to make a specific tube path work, if so, you get to play the waiting game.
 
The pump will fit behind the rad rather than next to it (no space), it won't impact on airflow sufficiently to notice. The res tubing can drop virtually straight down to the pump inlet depending on pump orientation. With an pump top you could use a side outlet to the rad.

You may a find a tall res a bit of a squeeze due to the cabling on the 24 pin motherboard power connector unless you drill the tray and come up from behind (as the actress said to the bishop). I use an EK Multioption Rev.2 100 which is about right and use a pre-drilled hole in the motherboard tray which may not be in the correct position if the motherboard tray is reversed. Move it over too far and it impacts on the hard/optical drives cabling.

I'm using 3/8"ID, 1/2"OD tubing mainly because I found it easier to route and now I've finally got some decent tubing don't get kinks or need to use anti kink coils. I got some samples of the different sizes of tubing before I put it together. I'd also read Cathar's tests and decided the differences were too little to matter.
 
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The pump will fit behind the rad rather than next to it (no space), it won't impact on airflow sufficiently to notice. The res tubing can drop virtually straight down to the pump inlet depending on pump orientation. With an pump top you could use a side outlet to the rad.

You may a find a tall res a bit of a squeeze due to the cabling on the 24 pin motherboard power connector unless you drill the tray and come up from behind (as the actress said to the bishop). I use an EK Multioption Rev.2 100 which is about right and use a pre-drilled hole in the motherboard tray which may not be in the correct position if the motherboard tray is reversed. Move it over too far and it impacts on the hard/optical drives cabling.

I'm using 3/8"ID, 1/2"OD tubing mainly because I found it easier to route and now I've finally got some decent tubing don't get kinks or need to use anti kink coils. I got some samples of the different sizes of tubing before I put it together. I'd also read Cathar's tests and decided the differences were too little to matter.

Yeah, the pump will be behind the rad.. I just kinda drew it next to it for simplicity's sake. I only want to drill 1 hole for the rad -> cpu passing through the midplate, I plan to route the res -> pump tube behind (rather than through) the midplate which is why I was thinking a 45 degree from the reservoir to allow the tube to more naturally hug the wall.


I think I'll do the 24 pin in grey, sata in black/white, everything else in black.
or 24 pin in black/white and SATA in gray. the 24 pin will pass from behind the tray over the reservoir and into the mobo. because it passes over the reservoir (black lund pomplex: http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/images/large/lund1.jpg) I want to use sleeving that will contrast well (ie not black on black).

I'm leaning towards the 3/8" ID just because like you said, easier to route and the Feser tubing comes in that size :)
 
You know, if we were discussing how to properly color anything but a loop in this depth I'd be worried...

I think for your psu, any sleeving will stand out, there are just so many wires that if you do it right it's gonna sand out regardless. That said, if you want the sata cables to stand out a little, then grey is probably a good option...though grey won't exactly stand out so much as accent the coloring of the mobo if i'm envisioning it right.
 
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