Antec Kuhler 620 Custom Install Q's

[essartee4]

Whats up guys/gals?!

Ok new to the forum, first post. Great forum BTW.

Anyway ive been piecing together a budget build for about a month now, and im always tweaking what i have as the build goes along.

Here is what i have so far. BTW this is my first build, Previous MAC fanboy (posting from my Macbook Pro now haha)

- Case: Antec Nine Hundred
- Board: ASRock Z77 Pro4
- HDD: Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB SSD
- PSU: OCZ Modxstream Pro 600W
- Memory: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB 1600
- Antec KUHLER H2O 620

So my last item on the list brings me here. Of course i couldnt just leave it alone.

Heres what it looks like now:

So what i plan on doing is running clear 1/4" tubing instead of the black, and using this reservoir:

http://www.microcenter.com/product/391776/MCRes-Micro_R2_SSF_Hi-Flow_Acrylic_Reservoir

Now on to the question. After viewing many youtube videos, i have came up with; the RIGHT SIDE nipple on the pump is out (push) and the LEFT side of the pump is IN.

Do i want my loop as Push to radiator, out of the radiator to the reservoir, then out of the reservoir to the IN nipple on the pump?

Be nice to me its my first post

Thanks!!

 

[Bobnova]

Yup. The reservoir must feed the IN fitting on the pump.

 

[Conumdrum]

Wow, I have no idea, never seen it mentioned.

Since you have a modders heart, get a bucket and a sink. And tubing. Make sure the pump is primed, a few seconds of no water can kill a pump if it has ceramic bearings.

And try it. I can't say which is in/out on the pump but you have that figured out. But it has to be correct.

The direction in the rad doesn't matter. Rule only one, no more needed in watercooling is ALWAYS res before pump, pump must ALWAYS have water. So your pump inlet MUST be from the res.

That res is the classic Swiftech res, good stuff. We have so many other options now, haven't seen it used in a while, but for a small effective res, it's perfect.

We have stickies talking about bumping the pump etc, please read up on it to prevent the pump from running dry. And if you can run the setup with the hoses on the rad up top, your loop will be much easier to bleed, less air pockets.

 

[essartee4]

Heres a video, so no need to test it myself as it shows which is out and in on the pump.
ie: Left nipple IN (Suck), Right nipple PUSH (out)

 

[essartee4]

Ok so ill flip the rad around, i thought they would be better on the bottom. Ugh.

 

[essartee4]

btw where can i get coolant like shown in the video?

 

[essartee4]

Push/Pull Setup. Hoses up top

 

[Conumdrum]

Your running a Alum rad and a Copper CPU block.

Your removing the high anit corrio stuff and moving to what we are kinda in the 'twilight zone' of liquids. You have to run anti-buildup liquids that prevent your copper molecules to collect on the alum molecuels of the rad. It WILL happen.

Nuff said for now, now drunk time to research, you better get it right for long term use. Hint:

Antifreeze (quality) and distilled water, with a bit of biocide.

Do your homework, it's a hobby, do it right.

 

[essartee4]

So recommend me what to run as far a coolant?

 

[Conumdrum]

30% antifreeze, 70% distilled and a biocide. Or one of the aftermarket liquids.

 

[essartee4]

Could you possibly link me to recommended, budget antifreeze and biocide (not sure what this is).

 

[Conumdrum]

I'll let this die, since you have two threads now.

Kill it/merge it mods.

 

[essartee4]

I only have one thread

 

[Conumdrum]

Ack, wayyyyy my bad.

I apologize 10000%.

Still we talk about it deeply in the stickies. Your past a 'buy now looks pretty' setup.

Please read and learn about real WC in the stickies since you have opened a real bucket of worms. Your past the AIO stuff now.

 

[essartee4]

AIO?

 

[essartee4]

Got my Swiftech Res, now waiting on the 1/4" to 1/4 Barbs which were a pain to find.

 

[ivanlabrie]

AIO as in all in one watercooling.

You need to mix distilled water with antifreeze and add a biocide, as well as do a regular bleeding/refill...Check the stickies as it was suggested.
The different metals in one same liquid medium will make for corrosion and gunk buildup in your loop, restricting flow and eventually killing your pump.

 

[essartee4]

Thanks for the info. I did read in the sticky that,

"Ethylene Glycol / Antifreeze is really only necessary in two situations, (mixed-metal loops)"

Which would be me. Is coolant and antifreeze the same thing?

I also picked up my "biocide", PT Nuke

Another question. The sticky states dont use die to make UV fluid as it can clog. Does this mean colored fluids as well?

How ofter should i flush my loop?

Thanks!

 

[essartee4]

30% antifreeze, 70% distilled and a biocide. Or one of the aftermarket liquids.

When you say antifreeze - do you mean the exact stuff put in cars? Or is their a version sold online for PC's?

 

[ivanlabrie]

Thanks for the info. I did read in the sticky that,

"Ethylene Glycol / Antifreeze is really only necessary in two situations, (mixed-metal loops)"

Which would be me. Is coolant and antifreeze the same thing?

I also picked up my "biocide", PT Nuke

Another question. The sticky states dont use die to make UV fluid as it can clog. Does this mean colored fluids as well?

How ofter should i flush my loop?

Thanks!

Dye IS colored coolant which is colored distilled water. It's a no go!

When you say antifreeze - do you mean the exact stuff put in cars? Or is their a version sold online for PC's?

Antifreeze IS the car stuff, way cheaper than anything else you'll find...