Build Log (first WC build)

[xander89]

well the pump is working fine, its just a bit of an annoying noise. In all fairness with all the fans going etc( if i dont put my head next to it) i cant hear the noise, but it certainly aint right.

I thought maybe it was because there might have been a split second it ran dry ( when i was filling the loop i would literally turn on the pump for 2 secs to pump some water out the rez etc) But i was pretty dam careful to make sure that that didnt happen

I doubt its going to die anytime soon, but better safe than sorry. I did about 2 hours of leak testing and in all fairness im quite confident that its all nice and sealed. I think im going to run it over the weekend. Send a video to the shop/xspc and get a replacement sent. I read on the forums somewhere they will pretty much just send you a replacement without you having to send the old one back if you show them a timestamped vid etc. Means maybe i can get a new one sent and just switch it out when it gets here rather than having to wait AGES for them to RMA it.

 

[xander89]

That sucks about the pump, it happens though.

Your pics gave me an idea, is the tubing thin enough that from the res to the rad that you can run it through the grommets on the back side? That would clean up the tubing run somewhat.

I could run it out the back, but wouldnt that mean having the rez hanging off the back of the comp?

 

[xander89]

Hey all, so i thought i would show you the finished product. I leak tested for about 12 hours yesterday and im Priming @4.5ghz as we speak XD.



I know some people may not like the amount of tubing in the case but its unavoidable with this rez/ pump really as you need enough give to pull it out at the front to fill it. As a result i tried to make is looka s nice as possible / put a nice curve in the top tube ( for artistic effect XD) When i get a GPU block in there i think it will make the tubing look a bit more natural. I'll also be putting a 240 at the bottom / 120 at the back if i add a GPU block.

anyhu the temps are looking pretty nice. Running mid 50's- low 60's @4.5ghz 1.3V. Not too bad at the mo. Or should i be getting lower? ( keep in mind im only using a push config)

 

[Modz 4 Higher]

Mid 50's to low 60's at idle? Please tell me those temps are under a load??

And what Conumdrum meant for routing the tubing through the grommets, he meant the wire management grommets not the tubing grommets on the back, do you do not have that log tube going right across your MOBO.

Modz

 

[m0r7if3r]

Mid 50's to low 60's at idle? Please tell me those temps are under a load??

And what Conumdrum meant for routing the tubing through the grommets, he meant the wire management grommets not the tubing grommets on the back, do you do not have that log tube going right across your MOBO.

Modz

what a newb, load% is listed on realtemp

 

[Modz 4 Higher]

I no looky

 

[xander89]

That is under 100% load. . also i could rout it though the grommets, but it would mean alota bending and to be honest there isnt a huge amount of space at the back ( ie the side of the case wouldnt shut if i routed the tubing round the back.)

 

[Modz 4 Higher]

Gotcha Well it looks great NTL

 

[xander89]

Ok guys time

I need a few quick questions answered if you can!!!

Ok so ive got to around 4.8ghz so far on my OC ( I'm really struggling with the 5gh mark, i think im gona need a very large hop in Vcore to get there and i just dont have the time after work to properly spend time on it) I'm currently @ 1.38V's ( which i think i can get lower, but anyhu!)

My temps are idling in the mid 30's and when i prime it I'm hitting 70c . Now i feel this is a little high. I mean my rad is only the RS so it is pretty slim and i know it isnt brilliant+ the fans are so so, but basically are these the kind of temps to be expected when cranking the OC!? I know its a dam sight cooler that my thermaltake 120 ultra where i was hitting the 80's @ 4.5 @ 1.3v

i think to hit the 5ghz mark and keep it under 80c load ill have to add in another 240 rad ( preff a thicker one, maybe the XSPC RX 240) and hopfully that should give me a bit more overhead. At the moment i feel that early 70s are as high as i really want to be running my 24/7 OC. ( while gaming etc i never really go above 55) I'll also put a pair of gentle typhoon 1850 rmp fans on the 240 to give it a little extra punch ( cant really afford to spend £45 on more fans for my 360 atm)

Also onto my pump noise. I uploaded a vid and wanted to see what you guys thought. ( maybe im jjust being pedantic about the noise) I also found this review of the xspc 750 pump and it seems to have a similar noise on the vid. Tell me what you think!

Review

Mine

 

[m0r7if3r]

You should drop a thermometer in your res and then load it and see if it's water temp that's the issue. I bet it's just having a hard time getting the heat out of the core, and that won't be improved by a radiator...not much at least.

i shall give that a go. So you think its the pump not shifting the water fast enough out of the block?I mean the pump aint amazing, but it shouldnt have too much of an issue. I mean i can just feel the water increasing in temp just by putting my hand on the rez at the front of my case when im loading.

So rez or pump issue ? ( I've also posted this up in my WC build thread, probably more relevant to post it there ?)

It's actually a CPU "issue" (limitation is a better word) I'm thinking. When you think about heat transfer, you have to think about it from the source outwards. In our case the source is the CPU core, not the IHS of the CPU. The IHS is the interface to the loop. The IHS is connected to the core with either glue or solder, depending on your CPU (I don't know what they're doing with it these days), and if that joint is bad, it's the same as having bad TIM spread.

Fortunately, this is relatively easy to diagnose: if your water-air dT is low, then it's an issue with transfer out of the core. If it's high, it's an issue with transfer out of the loop. I don't think you'd be having a pumping power issue, so I would rule that out, but that could create behavior similar to heat being stuck in the core, depending on which component is falling off first (if you want me to explain the science of that, I can). All you can definitely confirm either that it is or isn't a lack of radiator issue (dT high = radiator issue).

 

[xander89]

It's actually a CPU "issue" (limitation is a better word) I'm thinking. When you think about heat transfer, you have to think about it from the source outwards. In our case the source is the CPU core, not the IHS of the CPU. The IHS is the interface to the loop. The IHS is connected to the core with either glue or solder, depending on your CPU (I don't know what they're doing with it these days), and if that joint is bad, it's the same as having bad TIM spread.

Fortunately, this is relatively easy to diagnose: if your water-air dT is low, then it's an issue with transfer out of the core. If it's high, it's an issue with transfer out of the loop. I don't think you'd be having a pumping power issue, so I would rule that out, but that could create behavior similar to heat being stuck in the core, depending on which component is falling off first (if you want me to explain the science of that, I can). All you can definitely confirm either that it is or isn't a lack of radiator issue (dT high = radiator issue).

shall have a better read on my lunchbreak ( at work atm ) also could you have a look at the links i posted RE: my pump noise. Could use your expert ears Cheers matey

 

[m0r7if3r]

I listened to it, and nothing sounds immediately and horribly wrong. I do not own that model of pump, so I cannot tell you if that is normal or not. If it's not normal, I would guess it's being caused by a bubble that's trapped somewhere and is shifting around so that it only lets water past at certain times.

 

[xander89]

I listened to it, and nothing sounds immediately and horribly wrong. I do not own that model of pump, so I cannot tell you if that is normal or not. If it's not normal, I would guess it's being caused by a bubble that's trapped somewhere and is shifting around so that it only lets water past at certain times.

Hmmmmm if that's the case i might try and drain the loop and give it another go on the weekend.ive tried turning the comp to get all the air out, i just assumed the pump was messed up as lots of people have been having this issue and XSCP seem to just send you a new pump if you ask them XD. If anything ill have two if they send me a new one. Apparently they dont even ask fro the old one back rofl!

Also in regards to the temps lets hope its a rad issue, as that is easily solved! Ill measure that this eve/tomorrow cheers buddy. But the main point is whether or not this is the performance i should be expecting. Problem is i wont know unless i find someone with the same setup. Cos ultimately if this is what i should be expecting, then there shouldn't be too much to worry about

What kind of temps do people get while loading @ around the 1.4v mark on WC with a triple rad just for the CPU? I know its a VERY broad question as setups vary greatly but just a ballpark figure. If anyone has a cpu loop is an XSPC RS 360 if they could comment that would be brill

in the end i might just have a toasty chip/will just have to deal with it. LAMEEEEE

 

[m0r7if3r]

I suppose the numbers for my GTX360 with shrouded AFB1212VHE's woudln't help you very much, huh?

 

[xander89]

I suppose the numbers for my GTX360 with shrouded AFB1212VHE's woudln't help you very much, huh?

no not really no its just nice to know your running the right kind of temps and if anyone else has experience with this kit + CPU then let me know. I might try to reseat the block too to see if that helps

 

[phil178821]

I only quickly scanned your initial post, but you will want distilled water, not deionized. The absence of ions in deionized water will lead to corrosion of your system components to create that ionic balance (don't ask me what the rate for this corrosion is, I couldn't tell ya). Distilled water just has the minerals, algae, bacteria etc removed, which are what can build up or cause growth in the system. We had a discussion on it a few years back.

 

[m0r7if3r]

I only quickly scanned your initial post, but you will want distilled water, not deionized. The absence of ions in deionized water will lead to corrosion of your system components to create that ionic balance (don't ask me what the rate for this corrosion is, I couldn't tell ya). Distilled water just has the minerals, algae, bacteria etc removed, which are what can build up or cause growth in the system. We had a discussion on it a few years back.

distilled isn't available overseas, deionized is...beats tap water.

 

[xander89]

Im using deionized + some mayhem Biocide. I doubt the rate of corrosion will be anything significant. At least I hope not. I'm sure I can try and order some distilled water somewhere. Or go to my old school and knick some out of the labs XD

 

[m0r7if3r]

Im using deionized + some mayhem Biocide. I doubt the rate of corrosion will be anything significant. At least I hope not. I'm sure I can try and order some distilled water somewhere. Or go to my old school and knick some out of the labs XD

I wouldn't worry about it, plenty of people have used DI, never heard of an issue from it.

 

[Solder]

"It seems like the rez isnt wide enough for the bay so the little bit on the right hand side of the case doesnt slot into the holes in th side of the rez ( as sown below)"

Xander89 - You've probably already thought of this but it's possible there may be longer screws available at a local hardware store to span the gap to the res. If the next length is just a bit too long use a washer to keep the screws from bottoming out.