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Custom H60 Closed-loop

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evilmindsgfx

New Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Location
California
Well, To describe more of the topic, I want to put custom tubing into my H60 (2013) and still have it as a closed-loop cooler. So, is this possible or does this completely ruin that point of it and make it that I must add in a reservoir and such things to make a custom loop?

Thanks
 
Well, To describe more of the topic, I want to put custom tubing into my H60 (2013) and still have it as a closed-loop cooler. So, is this possible or does this completely ruin that point of it and make it that I must add in a reservoir and such things to make a custom loop?

Thanks

Well, first of all swapping out the stock tubing for custom tubing will void your warranty. So, you'll want to be sure you are comfortable with that before you start modifying it.

Yes, you will most likely need a reservoir to do this, as there isn't any easy way to fill the loop with liquid coolant and bleed out the air without a reservoir. At least there isn't any way of doing that without the res which I am aware of.

Though if you were to do this with a reservoir (and add more coolant to the loop to account for the extra tubing length and reservoir capacity) you would likely get lower temps than with the stock configuration, if everything were to work correctly when you put it back together.
 
Oh. Alright. My H60 is a refurb so there is no warranty that exist for it. So, how would I continue the process to do this with a reservoir? As well as maybe a few best known reservoirs?

The Swiftech H220 is the closest to a way to bleed out air as you fill it up. lol
 
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just get syringe from the drugstore to fill it with the rig on its side. I use clear 1/4 tube on most of mine lay the rig over on its side with a little extra tube sticking up while filling from the lower tube.
 
just get syringe from the drugstore to fill it with the rig on its side. I use clear 1/4 tube on most of mine lay the rig over on its side with a little extra tube sticking up while filling from the lower tube.

How would I go upon doing that a bit more precise?
 
just get syringe from the drugstore to fill it with the rig on its side. I use clear 1/4 tube on most of mine lay the rig over on its side with a little extra tube sticking up while filling from the lower tube.

How would I go upon doing that a bit more precise (on the steps)?
 
no res needed, hers a shot of a ghettoed antec 920 and one of the 920 ghettoed with a resevator
 

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Sorry to sound a little stupid, but I need a bit more precise info on how I will be filling it up with the syringe.

Anyway, just for extended help if any, my idea that I want to happen is I want to replace the tubing with Clear tubing. Which brand is best? (I don't know what size I need to fit my H60.) I want to then fill it with a UV-reactive fluid. (Or maybe even if it is recommended to just replace the cables to a UV-reactive color instead of a liquid?)

I am a beginner to this custom loop thing. and of course, any modding as well is new to me.
 
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Sorry to sound a little stupid, but I need a bit more precise info on how I will be filling it up with the syringe.

Anyway, just for extended help if any, my idea that I want to happen is I want to replace the tubing with Clear tubing. Which brand is best? (I don't know what size I need to fit my H60.) I want to then fill it with a UV-reactive fluid. (Or maybe even if it is recommended to just replace the cables to a UV-reactive color instead of a liquid?)

I am a beginner to this custom loop thing. and of course, any modding as well is new to me.

Probably use a T-line at a high point is my guess.

As for tubing, Primochill Advanced LRT tubing is the one to get.

In all honestly if budget permits, I would just start with a simple beginners kit like the XSPC. They range from $150-$230 if I recall correctly. Modding a closed loop can get troubling and the pump isn't designed to handle more than its already established capacity. I mean some use these pumps but they are fairly weak, respectfully.
 
Probably use a T-line at a high point is my guess.

As for tubing, Primochill Advanced LRT tubing is the one to get.

In all honestly if budget permits, I would just start with a simple beginners kit like the XSPC. They range from $150-$230 if I recall correctly. Modding a closed loop can get troubling and the pump isn't designed to handle more than its already established capacity. I mean some use these pumps but they are fairly weak, respectfully.

Oh. Alright. Maybe I'll look into some XSPC kits. The H60 i currently use and I dont want to currently risk f*ing it up as my only backup is a CM TX3. lol

It probably would be best as I plan to build an i7 pc with a 780Ti (or maybe the next series?) and just give my current to my gf so we can play together. lol

Anyway, how does the water reservoirs work? Do they just like constantly loop through or does it somehow drain the water and like it suddenly evaporate? lol
 
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Oh. Alright. Maybe I'll look into some XSPC kits. The H60 i currently use and I dont want to currently risk f*ing it up as my only backup is a CM TX3. lol

It probably would be best as I plan to build an i7 pc with a 780Ti (or maybe the next series?) and just give my current to my gf so we can play together. lol

Anyway, how does the water reservoirs work? Do they just like constantly loop through or does it somehow drain the water and like it suddenly evaporate? lol

The outlet of the reservoir is below the inlet so it's just a way of making sure any air bubbles rise to the top and escape before they get picked up by the outlet hose and carried to the radiator or the pump. I'm guessing this is how it works as I've never actually used one.
 
The reservoir is basically a tank of water to feed the pump, hense why we preach to people to make sure loop order doesn't mater as long as the res is before the pump naturally feeding it because a dry pump is as good as dead. The res is also the place where all the bubbles escape too because if they are still inside the loop, especially the blocks, it can impeded the cooling performance.

There are many designed reservoirs there. Cylinder and bay reservoirs.

If you are seriously thinking about going custom water cooling I suggest making sure you have a water cooling case or buy one to store whatever your needs arise. There are many great cases out there designed for water cooling nowadays which is great. Usually I advise folks to know what will their heat load be. How many GPUs? What CPU? etc Than calculate the heatload. Than the how much rad will be needed to cool those components and what kind of fans. If all that is done in a sketch/blue print if you will you than look around for cases that can store internally x amount of rad. Some cases can be troublesome when working with. Especially those with big hands for example and or with lots of cooling components being installed.
 
here is my ghetto rigged 920 with res and extra rad
2013-10-23-001.jpg

however....I don`t recommend doing this, I did it and i`m still building a custom loop because this ghetto cooling is a POS...
 
Well, I currently have a Apevia X-Dreamer-4 (falling apart) but I plan to upgrade to the awesome Thermaltake Urban T81 first before anything. Not sure what can all fit there but for a start my only desire is just for CPU cooling at this time. Maybe throw in 1 or 2 780Ti GPUs or a single of the next gen (whenever it comes out) and water cool that in the future when its affordable.
 
filling a ghettod h60 is easy, the 1/4 inch tubing you need is from a rubber suppy hous or hardware store.
lay the rig on it's side with the pump and rad installed.
two peices of extra tube will be used that will stick up uver the top of the rig. use the lower connection of the rad.
shove water in the tube till it runs out of the tube from the pump that is held well above the rig,
plug the tube from the pump to the rad and your done.
 
I have opened up my H70, but i did add a res into the mix just to be safe. If you wish to do it as a closed, i am sure its possible, but will require a bigger process.

Something like putting the rad into a bucket of water (NOT tap water) then have the hose on 1 nozzel, and then connectod to the sucking end of the pump, plug it in, have the output hose from the pump put the water back in the bucket. Once you feel sure theres no air in the loop, then attach the hose to the nozzel on the rad, and your done.
 
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