D5 pump recommendations and info, please?

[Alaric]

Already ordered the res. If it gives me issues I'll replace it and sell it after RMA. If there's no cooling downside, the larger tubing also gives more "pop" to the color theme. I'm always good with "too much is just enough" if it doesn't kill the budget or hurt performance. I used to take the hood off my Charger in August because the hot air trapped under it kept stalling the motor at red lights (I lived in Davie). That car was a nightmare on public roads, but Jeebus, did it run when you mashed the loud pedal. LOL

 

[Bill Dimwit]

don't do that monsoon reservoir, I have had to rma mine twice so far for the led's taking a crap.
3/8 id hose is all you need, it matches the thread size.

You RMA'd a rez for the leds going bad? Unless if monsoon paid for shipping both ways you'd be money head to just get new/better leds.

For tubing size. I always been a fan of 3/8" ID by 1/2" OD mostly for the looks. I found that it looks better, but that is just a option.
Bigger ID tubing will add more water volume to the loop and increases the water flow a little. But only if the pump can handle the extra water.
with a d5 you should not have to be worried about that.

As for the Charger over heating, why not get a thermostat the opens up at a lower temp? And a electric fan if it has one that's belt driven?

 

[Alaric]

Electric water pump, dual Black Widow fans, four core radiator. The motor was, shall we say, a bit over done for a street car. The list of mods to the chassis, trans, and engine is a thread all by itself.

Worst case scenario, I can always port the fittings. Increasing flow rates won't be anything strange to me. But, seriously, as long as the added ID doesn't slow flow rate so much that I have to worry about heat soak I should be OK. I won't be looking for bleeding edge OC, just a max comfortable 24/7 number that won't likely be used more than a few minutes at a time.

 

[MaddMutt]

Electric water pump, dual Black Widow fans, four core radiator. The motor was, shall we say, a bit over done for a street car. The list of mods to the chassis, trans, and engine is a thread all by itself.

Worst case scenario, I can always port the fittings. Increasing flow rates won't be anything strange to me. But, seriously, as long as the added ID doesn't slow flow rate so much that I have to worry about heat soak I should be OK. I won't be looking for bleeding edge OC, just a max comfortable 24/7 number that won't likely be used more than a few minutes at a time.

^ I forgot to mention about the bigger tubing. Try to make them short and straight. The bigger tubing is a PITA when it comes to bending and it takes twice the space to make a turn. Use HOT WATER to soften the tubing before installing it on the barb/clamp, it makes it go easier.

 

[Bill Dimwit]

I second useing hat water to help mold the tubbing
Zip ties can be used temporary to prevent kinking. However this doesn't work too well with thicker walled tubing.

 

[Alaric]

The plan is to assemble everything in its final form, then pull it out as a unit and leak test. Then I can install it as a filled, ready to go, AIO.

 

[maxfly]

frozencpu had alot of issues but they have rebounded. youll find that they are oos on alot of popular gear so they havent quite gotten back to form yet. ive bought a couple pieces from them in the last year. everything showed up as expected with nothing missing and on time.
im thinking your going with soft tubing and barbs vs. hard tube and compression fittings? if so 1/2in x 3/4in tubing is easy to get on barbs but can be harder to bend.
ive only used smaller tubing once 7/16 x 5/8 i believe but it sucked bad for me in that it was tooo easy to collapse when making bends.
your on the right track if you stick with tubing coils just try to use metal ones vs plastic. the plastic ones fall apart after a year or so(sooner if you move things to often) but the metal ones last forever and do a better job of keeping form. they are more expensive x2 usually.
theres a 20% off alphacool gear sale at ppcs and another sale on clearance hardwarelabs gear, 50% off. so get em while theyre hot!

p.s. ppcs ebay clearance page is a good place to find rads and fans filthy cheap. just be sure to read the descriptions really well.

 

[Alaric]

Looking at compression fittings and soft tubing, and definitely metal anti kink coils. I know zip ties, hose clamps, etc. wll work, but aesthetics are a big part of this project. So far I'm thinking Bitspower for the fittings. That seems to be the #1 choice for a lot of people.

 

[maxfly]

solid choice, bp fittings will kill your budget tho! bitspower is good but expensive and they offer a few more colors than everyone else. ek makes really good compression fittings/45s/90s too and just a little cheaper than bp. alphacool is right in line with bp and they are really solid fittings but again its pretty much chrome white and black with them. xspc is alot cheaper and limited in colors but ive had some bad bad luck with their 90s leaking on me. the kind of leaks that jump up on ya rather than the whoops during a leak test. no idea why its so friggin hard for these mannies to paint up some 45s/90s with something other than white, chrome and black. it would be nice to have options like the chinese manufacturers make- barrow/byski but i dont trust the aliexpress stuff...much. im dipping my toe into the barrow pond with a new res but ive no other experience with them. from what ive seen its solid. alot of people have said they knock off bp fittings but from what ive read they used to make bp fittings. so yeah...who knows.

 

[Alaric]

Chinese manufacturing is a rat's nest of counterfeiting, theft, and corruption to the highest levels of government. And intellectual property (from music to patents and trademarks) is a foreign concept to them. Taiwan is a different story altogether, though. I'll spend a few extra dollars for the Bp parts on this build. When I watercool my benching rig I can shop around on fittings. They'll be exposed and most won't be near any sensitive parts. The rig I'm doing now is my girlfriend's and I want this to be Very Good, as far as build quality and execution. Probably should have practiced on a few loops first, but she's been quite patient with my hobby and I want to get her stuff taken care of before going crazy on my stuff.

 

[MaddMutt]

READ before buying a D5 or MCP655 pump. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums...3-My-ported-D5-Pump-P-Q-results&highlight=mod
In the post, someone has done pressure testing of the D5/MCP655. The BASIC = Non-Variable runs at a constant setting of 4, while the Variable can go to 5.
In the post, they state "In fact the MCP655 variable model is almost 30% stronger in max presssure head than the MCP655-B".

Thank You

 

[GTXJackBauer]

You can't go wrong with BP. High quality imho and yes, they're pricey but to me they're worth every penny. They might have gone done in price a bit but not sure since purchasing them 7 or so years ago.

As for tubing size, 1/2 x 3/4 is the biggest size and what I use but I would only recommend them in big cases because they'll be a pain to work in anything other than a full size tower at a minimum. I'd venture into a bit smaller tubing that has a decent wall to it so it doesn't kink on tight bends but one way to remedy that issue is to use angle fittings as much as you can. BP has a wide range of those as it helped immensely in my build over the years.

 

[Alaric]

The bends might be an issue with heavier tubing. With the pump/res combo going straight to the rad, that's a short run if the rad ports are towards the front of the case. The radiator will mount over the mobo (by case design) and the reservoir will be in the lower two of three ODD bays.. With the rad ports forward, the runs to the waterblock and from waterblock to res should be long enough to manage the larger tubing size. I may go with an angled fitting at the radiator, from the pump/res outlet. That should take care of the bend on the shortest run. Another angled fitting from the waterblock return to the res to run that line under the inlet might be a good idea, too.

READ before buying a D5 or MCP655 pump. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&highlight=mod
In the post, someone has done pressure testing of the D5/MCP655. The BASIC = Non-Variable runs at a constant setting of 4, while the Variable can go to 5.
In the post, they state "In fact the MCP655 variable model is almost 30% stronger in max presssure head than the MCP655-B".

I was looking at the Swiftech variable, actually, my thinking being that running the pump faster (my res is supposed to be very quiet) may let me keep fan speeds lower for lower loads. Quiet is good. I expect some experimentation before finding that perfect balance between the pump speed/fan speed to noise ratio.

 

[Conumdrum]

Pump speed matters. But once you reach a speed that pumps water through the blocks fast enough to remove heat it's a diminishing return. Any faster and all you do is add heat (watts) to the loop.

There was tests done long ago about water GPM and radiator effectiveness. If the water gets to the rad faster it leaves faster, thus less cooling to the water. Once you reach optimum speed on the pumps then you are done. My MCP 50x long ago ramped as heat went up, but never, ever to the top RPM. No need for that. My dual Swiftec 355's (two loops) were DC controlled, I ended up setting both at 50% I think. Sure, loop temps went up durings test and somewhat during gaming, but increasing speed made absolutely NO difference.

Don't understand a quiet res. No cavitation, no bubbles, no noise..............................

 

[Conumdrum]

The bends might be an issue with heavier tubing. With the pump/res combo going straight to the rad, that's a short run if the rad ports are towards the front of the case. The radiator will mount over the mobo (by case design) and the reservoir will be in the lower two of three ODD bays.. With the rad ports forward, the runs to the waterblock and from waterblock to res should be long enough to manage the larger tubing size. I may go with an angled fitting at the radiator, from the pump/res outlet. That should take care of the bend on the shortest run. Another angled fitting from the waterblock return to the res to run that line under the inlet might be a good idea, too.

In tests the smaller tubing was such a small difference in GPM that it wasn't even significant. 3/8" ID thick wall is so much easier. And don't forget the Bitspower 90 deg dual rotary fittings. They are pricey but wow they get you out of a tough spot.

 

[Alaric]

Pump speed matters. But once you reach a speed that pumps water through the blocks fast enough to remove heat it's a diminishing return. Any faster and all you do is add heat (watts) to the loop.

There was tests done long ago about water GPM and radiator effectiveness. If the water gets to the rad faster it leaves faster, thus less cooling to the water. Once you reach optimum speed on the pumps then you are done. My MCP 50x long ago ramped as heat went up, but never, ever to the top RPM. No need for that. My dual Swiftec 355's (two loops) were DC controlled, I ended up setting both at 50% I think. Sure, loop temps went up durings test and somewhat during gaming, but increasing speed made absolutely NO difference.

Don't understand a quiet res. No cavitation, no bubbles, no noise..............................

Pump mounts in the two bay res body, which mounts with silicone biscuits to control vibration/noise. The res is silent, I was referring to the pump's contribution. Your post described what I'm looking for. I'm looking for the pump to carry as much of the load as it can, then start on fan curves, because I'm expecting the pump to be the quieter of the two. I understand there is definitely a point beyond which the flow rate is too high and actually detrimental. (The opposite of heat soak).