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DFI NF4 UltraD bad caps?

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Thanks guys, I've looked at those stations before. I'll just have to find one that ships to Canada. So for now desoldering wick isn't the way to go then I take it. I really should invest in a proper station. Even one good repair it'll pay for itself. I know when I did that card last fall I could have used a hotter iron... sometimes

Ha look what it costs here http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Super-Deal-2...120553?hash=item2a86425529:g:I94AAOSwz71ZUzga

That'll be $154 CDN please chaching

A couple questions what's the difference between the taller ones and the ones in the pic? They have the same rating as far as I can tell just a few of them are taller. I also have some small ones that say 100 uF 25V am I reading that right?
 
Last edited:
Johan45 said:
Thanks guys, I've looked at those stations before. I'll just have to find one that ships to Canada. So for now desoldering wick isn't the way to go then I take it. I really should invest in a proper station. Even one good repair it'll pay for itself. I know when I did that card last fall I could have used a hotter iron... sometimes

Ha look what it costs here http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Super-Deal-2...120553?hash=item2a86425529:g:I94AAOSwz71ZUzga

That'll be $154 CDN please chaching

A couple questions what's the difference between the taller ones and the ones in the pic? They have the same rating as far as I can tell just a few of them are taller. I also have some small ones that say 100 uF 25V am I reading that right?
Click to expand...

Yeah, shows as being about $82 here. Just shop around, you'll find something useable. The 60W pen is good in that it heats up fast, maintains heat well and with the station you can set it where you want it to be. I rarely have problems with waiting for the solder to melt and do it's thing with this setup.
As for the caps, as long as the rating is the same it's good but there are different sizes of caps based on how far apart it's legs are set into the cap, beware of this when ordering and get those of the same size physically if you can.

@ Nebulous:
I too have a Weller gun like yours and for alot of the stuff I do it's simply overkill, plus the tip is way too large for alot of the stuff I have to do.
 
Yeah I have several pens as well. Sometimes the gun is a bit much so I'll pull out one of the pens. I have 15w and 30w pens.
 
Johan, you will need something more than the 80C radio shack soldering iron. Caps are 99% always attached to ground (GND). There is a lot of copper with GND, and you will have to heat that up. Blow torch is not a good idea what so ever.

You can try to remove the caps, but if the iron does not heat up the solder, you will need to either heat up the board or get a hotter iron. You can use a high heat air gun of any kind (for hair or otherwise) to help heat the opposite side of where you are soldering. That will spread the heat in the copper, while the heat from your soldering iron will be able to remove the caps. However, be aware that when you use a hot gun of any kind on these METAL/PLASTIC boards, they will heat up to very very hot temperatures at touch. Be careful :)
 
When I said Iron I meant one of these I have a couple and they get very hot when torched. I just assumed holding it against the legs of the cap would be sufficient. I am considering one of those stations since there are a few cards I'd like to mod in the future as well.

il_fullxfull.318983348.jpg
 
Yeah but I have a nice small one I inherited from my GP. It's only about 3/4" wide by 2" long still holds a lot of heat. But as I said I'm likely going with the station any way. This isn't high priority ATM. Goin on Vaycay next week
 
Uhhhh please send the board to me so you don't kill everything lol
 
I'll be fine Dolk, really . Just shipping back and forth would pay for half of that station well a third anyway.
 
Fair enough. Caps like these are a great way to learn about soldering. Let me know if you need any help :)
 
I remember you didn't really like my soldering on the 9800GTX+ but it's held together so far he he
 
I remember that now. Yeah this is called a "cold solder" meaning a very tiny amount of solder actually melted onto the metal plane you were soldering onto. You need to really heat up GND to allow any soldering to occur, and this requires a lot of heat.

Remember, heat spreads, and copper is very efficient at spreading heat. Your GPU alone, can withstand up 450F before anything goes wrong, and that big copper power plane (ground) will gladly absorb all that heat and become a "heatsink"
 
Shawn I have an old dead board I can send ya that I used to practice on when I re capped my 7600 Gt video cards. That's if you need something to practice on, I assume you may have a bone pile at home as well.
 
Dolk said:
Johan, you will need something more than the 80C radio shack soldering iron. Caps are 99% always attached to ground (GND). There is a lot of copper with GND, and you will have to heat that up. Blow torch is not a good idea what so ever.

You can try to remove the caps, but if the iron does not heat up the solder, you will need to either heat up the board or get a hotter iron. You can use a high heat air gun of any kind (for hair or otherwise) to help heat the opposite side of where you are soldering. That will spread the heat in the copper, while the heat from your soldering iron will be able to remove the caps. However, be aware that when you use a hot gun of any kind on these METAL/PLASTIC boards, they will heat up to very very hot temperatures at touch. Be careful :)
Click to expand...

I can throw in beware of blistering the board or causing the layers to delaminate, high heat for an extended period of time will cause this. If using alot of airflow that too with even moderate heat used can cause this to happen so.... Like with alcohol do everything in moderation if you want a good outcome.
I tend to use a little more temp with less air than the opposite, this way I don't have quite the risk of it damaging things. You can increase the effect it has without turning up the heat by simply raising the airflow but that in turn can be risky, esp if around components you really don't want getting too hot. Sometimes you can even inadverdently blow a component off the board and that's not fun to deal with. The effect of using a lower airflow with a little more temp tends to keep the heat itself in the area you want it to be without too much of a splash effect that can and will affect components nearby.

This applies to using the air wand or really anything that uses air to apply the heat.
If you don't believe a simple hairdryer can hurt a board.... Think again because I've done it before.
 
Mandrake4565 said:
Shawn I have an old dead board I can send ya that I used to practice on when I re capped my 7600 Gt video cards. That's if you need something to practice on, I assume you may have a bone pile at home as well.
Click to expand...

Me too buddy but thanks. I have a slot board upstairs well two I thought I would practice with it till I have the timing/heat etc.. figured out
 
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