DFI NF4 UltraD bad caps?

[torin3]

I think I've got 1 or 2 extra of those boards. Would you like them?

 

[Johan45]

I think I've got 1 or 2 extra of those boards. Would you like them?

For parts you mean?

 

[torin3]

For parts you mean?

I think they are both functioning, but if you want to use them to strip them for parts, go right ahead. I'm not using them for anything. I can bring them to the benching party in Philly this weekend if anybody can pass them off to you.

 

[Johan45]

I'll take them and pay for shipping etc... I'm in Canada. Not gonna make the party this year though. Headed up north to go fishing

 

[torin3]

Let me wait until after the party then. I'm a bit frazzled at the moment.

 

[Dr. McCoy]

Me too buddy but thanks. I have a slot board upstairs well two I thought I would practice with it till I have the timing/heat etc.. figured out

Also be sure to use some soldering flux with each cap you set in even if the solder roll itself says it has flux in it.
The flux makes it so much easier to do and helps to eliminate cold solder joints, plus does the job for getting better soldered joints once done. Most any kind of flux will do, I'm actually using some that's used for sweating copper together with a torch yet it still works fine with my soldering.

All I do is first dip the legs into the flux itself, get them coated with it then do the job. If you set the cap in first that's fine but be sure to follow up with it and the needed solder itself to complete the work being done.
I use paste flux, liquid works too and is preferable in some cases but for this the paste works better.
Use rosin core 60/40 solder for best results.

 

[Johan45]

Thanks for all the tips guys. It's not my first rodeo with soldering but pretty new to electronics like this. Have worked with and around metal for a long time. I do understand as well how copper works. I used to use a block of it when welding holes in sheet metal