Extreme coolers unite ....again :)

[Exempt]

Hey guys, been a while since I stopped by and checked in. Well if you guys remember, the mach I with R404 gas, still runs fine, then I had bought a mach II unit, and at the time, was debating the gas R507 on that one, well I ended up doing it, and replacing the fans on the unit, there is about a 20 degree difference between the mach I and mach II ( obviously the mach II being the colder of the two), I do say, that the mach II has a little more integrity in the construction of the unit. It has a better fan controller and more solid wire connections when you pull it all apart, and a tad bit larger compressor...although all this, I cant see where the extra dollar value is really being put into, just seems they corrected what they overlooked on the mach I units. So today the new vapochill lightspeed arrived via UPS, and I have just cracked it open and am staring at the bad boy now. Opening it up I can see it uses a compressor almost like the mach II compressor, the CPU "cell" seems a bit more reliable and more stylish than the mach I or mach II unit. It is heavier it seems than either though. Ill be assembling the killer rig in the next few days and should have it benched and what not ..by next tuesday. So far my conclusions about these three kings of cooling units:

1. Mach I has a 7/10 on construction and assembly, small things like wiring connections could have been a little bit better. Overall, the mach I with gas change to R404 , and replacement of the stock fans to YS tech fans, makes a HUGE difference, when I say huge I mean [email protected] and the LCD temp on the front reads -38/-40 on full load. For about 400-500 bucks (US), and another 100 bucks for the gas to be exchanged (or free if you got a AC friend), it can compare to a stock mach II unit.

2. Mach II gets a 8/10, could have a 9/10 if they didnt get gay and start charging for the LCD as a seperate part of the base unit...and didnt raise the price so much just cause they knew we'd pay for it. The construction is solid, the wiring is solid, the new compressor is larger and quieter than the mach I danfoss compressor. Stock temps on a [email protected] were about the same as the modded Mach I, or pretty close, full lload overclocked , temps were about -42/-43. After the R507 gas exchange temps are about -59/-61 on LCD probe, BIOS temps stopped reading accurately after about -30. I like the unit, its rigged , strong and solid, I still think they can HIGHLY improve the hermaphatic cell "heat plate" that goes on the back on the mobo a LOT. the wires they use are to frail, after a few installs and removals, it can easily break, Also If you remember I had problems with condensation ruining one of my mobos, I still cant decipher where it came from, but i wouldnt doubt it being the weak a** heat pad. Now on all my vapor cooled setups I use non conductive grease, inside the pinholes for the CPU and all inside the cells, but make sure not to let it come in contact with the seal string, cause it will weaken the integrity of the seal if it does come in contact.

3. Vapochill LS, seems to be the next dream come true, well just have to see...

whew I hope that wasnt to long...

 

[Shane5578]

i'll be surprised if the LS has better temps than your regassed mach's.

looking forward to your results

btw first put the plastic clamshell through the evaporator, and then stick the heating elements easier that way

 

[rhino56]

you say you put a layer of dielectric grease on the pins of the cpu?
it probably wouldnt be a terrible idea to coat the board inside the entire area of the plastic frame thing im thinking.

can the mach one run without any beeps if i put the fans on a different control? i want to use a rheobus. its hot inside the case and i know more air will help alot.
also looking at the design and airflow of the promey wouldnt it be better to isolate the front radiator from the rest of the system.

just put the fan on the other side sucking out. but not the hot air off of the compressor so the side of the case would have a grill on it but a barrier between the compressor and front radiator.
heres a poor sketch of what i mean

do you think there would be any gain at all by doing this?

 

[Exempt]

Yes, I stick the non conductive grease inside the CPU pinholes and on the inside of the hermaphatic cell, NOT on the back ( of the mobo ) , what ever you do, DO NOT put it in the part with the orange heatplate that goes on the back of your mobo. This is to insure no corrosion and if some moisture got in there, it wouldnt short anything ( a few months back , my post about how I fried my killer 4.0ghz rig after the R404 mod... all due to the fact I failed to moisture proof it. After getting a new mobo and CPU, I left the gas R404 and just took more precautions and I once again have a [email protected], been running this way for about 3 months this time around.

For fan removal, I had to clip the microscopic capacitor that went onto the front and rear fans, and I didnt get any beeps on the mach I unit, its as simple as removing the fans outta there.I did however have beeps on my mach II unit, because of the software interface, this however was fixed with a little help from Hipro over at xtremesystemsforums.com, hes really on top of his knowledge, which is probably why he has one of the highest 3d mark and future mark scores in the world lol.

I couldn't quiet see what your diagram is doing, but Im thinking that you want to move your radiator back a little and stick the fan in FRONT of it, as opposed to it being, behind the radiator , right? I wouldnt do all this trouble anyways, the placement of the radiator and fans inside the unit work very nice when you replace the fans. I use a Vantec rhoebus, that controls the speed of the fans, but personally I leave it on high 100% of the time. Its a "tad", and I mean the smallest bit louder than it was before, and the performance is great, and much more reliable. To be a little more specific, I leave just the rear fan on high and the front intake on the unit, on low, so the sound is coming from the rear of the case, not the front, or you can do it vice versa.

Only advice on taking out the fans on a Mach I unit, is that the front fan is a tight squeeze getting it out of the enclouse, just be careful , use slight pressure and make sure your NOT taking it out on the side with the copper cap tube.

 

[Exempt]

after re-reading your idea, and looking over the diagram over and over, I see what you mean, I don't think that way would remove any more efficiently, try replacing the fans , and using a fan controller, youll notice anywhere from 8-15 degrees cooler difference depeding on what fans you use.

 

[rhino56]

ok i made it easy for myself since when you say hermaphetic cell
i think you mean inside the mounting plate.LOL
but on this image i made 3 color dots. did you put dielectric grease in all of the areas? and if in the green dot area did you isolate it from the seal string with anything? i dont get any condensation on the back of the board and i dont even have the heat pad turned on.

you know when someone writes stuff and then within a sentence they use (these things) and there is no ) side to it they have more information in their head then they can even get out.lol
(in your first paragraph)

what i was saying about the fans and grills was that the way it pulls air now the hot air from the front radiator is being pulled over the compressor. by putting the front fan on the other side of the radiator pulling it out. so basically both fans pull out and get air from holes in side panels and a wall between the compressor and the front radiator.
thanks for the help

 

[Exempt]

lol you cracked me up lol, Yah hermaphatic cell is the area you have the dots in, I put the non conductive grease in all those locations, after of course you already have the mach I base plate down. Im suprised, no wait, SHOCKED, that you said your not using your heat plate on the back, I would highly highly recommend that you stick it on there, and plug it in. Ill post some pics of the damage it did to my mobo, brb.

 

[rhino56]

cool, what could happen if i dont use the thermal pad?
looking forward to pics

 

[Exempt]

this is what can happen....

 

[Exempt]

it smells like burnt peanuts. Now though I said , "DO NOT PUT the non conductive grease on the back side of the mobo", I however put a paper thin layer over the exsposed (the burnt sh*t in the picture) metal. I recommended to other people though, to not stick it there because , people tend to go wild with protection, and if you put some of the grease there and it touched the seal string, the seal string would not "stick" to the mobo like its supposed to, which would jeapordize your seal. If however you want to give it a shot, just put a tiny amount of the grease over the metal pieces on the backside of the mobo.

 

[Exempt]

I use this compound, please don't confuse this for regular silicon, regular silicon contains small amounts of acid , which will eat away at your mobo slowly. YOu can get non conductive acid free silicon from like radio shack or a local electronics store.

 

[rhino56]

wow i think ill be coating everything i can.
im gonna go tommorrow and get some stuff.

 

[Exempt]

rofl omg Shane I had no clue what you were talking about the clamshell and all that, until I started assembling the *@(&#@*#( thing last night, that has to be the sh*ttiest instructions in the world ( the assembly of the vapochill LS). I sat there like an idiot trying to squeeze that darn thing past the little orange heat pad part, had to take it off and do it like you said.

I am a little wavering , in how well the neoprene foam can actually keep that unit so condensation proof, I mean the mach I and mach II units have a nice hard plastic shell, that you cover the edges with seal string, the vapochill LS, uses some cheesy neoprene foam... I just cant fathom how the vapo LS is supposed to be colder than the mach I and mach II and yet they choose to use Freeekin foam. I havent turned on the unit yet, still assembling the whole thing, and doing my ultimate best to keep wires to a clean freak tee. Anyways , its super late, and I gotta catch some zzzzzz's...

 

[Shane5578]

thats why you have to slap loads of grease everywhere. bye bye condensation.

the mach2 head will have to be modded to get proper contact on some mobos.

using grease and foam is simply easier for noobs like me

 

[rhino56]

well i got the dielectric grease, i didnt put it on the back of the mobo but i am running the heater now i put it all in the cpu area with a soft toothbrush i pretty much gave everything a good coat of it.
what substance should i use to clean it off when the time comes?

 

[Exempt]

I use q-tips, isopropyl alcohol, and a can of dust off. Basically, I wipe up the large glops of the stuff, and use the dust off to push it out of small places. Or you can purchase some computer silicon remover, which basically , sprays on and "washes" off any silicons, and its safe for the computer.

 

[rhino56]

my asus p4c800e-D took a crap on me again, i put the grease on, i was running the thermal pad, my temps were not high at all.
i left my rig running all night for folding and it was dead in the morning.
no bios, tried reseting the cmos and no go. this is the 4th MB that the same thing has happened.
the green light is there on the mb, i have the led ram stuff from corsair, when i go to boot the ram lights up all crazy like not like normal. like staggered lighting when its top to bottom normally.

the funny thing isd it was doing just fine, i wasnt overclocked at all, my cpu was like -21C at hottest and my mb was like 21C

this is the same thing that keeps happening. i am going to use stock heatsink until i can figure out what is wrong, why its wrong and is it something im doing, one of my boards ran a3.2 @ 4.2 for over a month and then blamo, now this board lasted about 3 days. at stock clocking.
im sure i can rma this thing again but that doesnt tell me what is wrong. 4th time, i really need to know whats up.
ill be getting a new mb on the 21st. so until then.......

 

[Exempt]

Yo. Sucks to have those problems...I had the same thing happen to me, but like I said it was becuase of the condensation. THe mobo green light would come on and all. It sounds exactly like that too, like your story I mean, I had left it on all night, came in the morning and it was off...never came back on. You need to make quadruple sure that you have a overkill on condensation proofing techniques. Make sure NO metal is double grouding itself. Like the four screws on the back of the mobo heat plate, I cover those with electrical tape, otherwise the screws have a chance of sparking. The mobo I fried, was the same one as yours, an asus, and thats the last time btw I ever used asus, try out an abit Ic7 max 3, or a chaintech 9cjs Zenith, there great motherboards, and I like them a little more than the asus . If you want I can walk you through your setup, so we can be 10000% sure your getting an airtight seal.

I just got this vapochill unit up and running, Im messing around right now with clock speeds, Im at 3.8 right now with stock voltage lol... and I jut hit 22k in 3d mark, so Im gonna keep playing with this...Im a little nervous still on this neoprene foam that vapochill chose to use to seal the CPU in, well see in a few weeks how well this unit holds up..... Ill post pics in a few..

 

[Exempt]

i just noticed you said you were not overclocked at all, and your temps was -21c? is that off the mach I unit LCD? cause that cant be correct, when my mach I was not gas modded, and I didnt ahve the fans in it, CPU not overclocked, my temps on that lcd was like -38c... update me bro

 

[Exempt]

here it is, Please exscuse the top two un-used 5.25 bays, I have a Crystalfontz LCD coming tommorow to take up those two slots, as well as a vantec blue knobed fan controller for one of the 3.5 floppy bays.