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Well I put the loop together and leak testing now. It's amazing how complicated things get when your trying to erase all signs of wires AND set up a wc loop. I also learned a lot more ways to route wires in my case. :)

Problems:

1. It looks like I have a leak in the input on my apogee. It looks like it's coming from where the barb is screwed in. I tried tightening it more which made it better, but it's still leaking. I'll nedd to tighten more.

2. I don't know if this is normal, but it seems like a lot of bubbles are going through the apogee. It's currently the loudest part of m computer with its wooshing. Do I just need to let it run longer? I haven't run it at any real lengths yet because of the leak.

3. It looks like there's air being pushed out by the pump as well as water. Is this normal? The res is mostly full.

4. There is a lot of condensation in the res. Is this normal?

BTW, I don't think I mentioned the order of my loop yet. It's res/pump -> rad -> cpu -> res/pump.

Thanks for all the help!
 
Well I put the loop together and leak testing now. It's amazing how complicated things get when your trying to erase all signs of wires AND set up a wc loop. I also learned a lot more ways to route wires in my case. :)

Problems:

1. It looks like I have a leak in the input on my apogee. It looks like it's coming from where the barb is screwed in. I tried tightening it more which made it better, but it's still leaking. I'll need to tighten more.

2. I don't know if this is normal, but it seems like a lot of bubbles are going through the apogee. It's currently the loudest part of m computer with its wooshing. Do I just need to let it run longer? I haven't run it at any real lengths yet because of the leak.

3. It looks like there's air being pushed out by the pump as well as water. Is this normal? The res is mostly full.

4. There is a lot of condensation in the res. Is this normal?

BTW, I don't think I mentioned the order of my loop yet. It's res/pump -> rad -> cpu -> res/pump.

Thanks for all the help!

For the block to stop leaking you need to use TWO O-Rings on each barb, that's what my GTZ needed.

The bubble are normal, the res needs to stay open so the extra air can escape.
leave the res open during leak testing for a few hours for air to escape.


Good luck. And post some Pics!
 
Thanks for the info venom. This raises another question I had. How do I drain the loop without getting everything wet? I was thinking to remove the pump/res from the case, then detatch the input tube and let the water drain from there. Good idea or is there a better way to do it?

I plan to post a build log once I'm done. I'll post a link here. With all the help I got for this loop, you better believe I'll give you some pics! ;)
 
Thanks for the info venom. This raises another question I had. How do I drain the loop without getting everything wet? I was thinking to remove the pump/res from the case, then detatch the input tube and let the water drain from there. Good idea or is there a better way to do it?

I plan to post a build log once I'm done. I'll post a link here. With all the help I got for this loop, you better believe I'll give you some pics! ;)


Whatever is easier for you and less messy(wet).

If you follow the link to my current build in my sig you will see on the bottom of the case
I have a 180 Q Bitspower fitting with a Koolance Quick Disconnect fitting for a drain line. Post #11
That is the best way for me, the male or female ends stay closed until you connect them together.
On the female end i have a 2 foot tube.
First the tube goes into an empty container then I connect the fittings and all the water drains, water drains faster after the res cap goes off too.
Very easy to drain and no mess.
 
Put a T fitting at the bottom near the pump and just seal the top of the T, you can open it and drain it whenever you need. :)
 
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